metro

I tried the digital driver, I still get a couple glitches here and there. I will try the analog one soon and see if that fixes the problem entirely. Thanks!

I will try that driver. It just confuses my it would be doing this now all of a sudden when it was fine until about 2 weeks ago. This card does have digital output on it, so I think I will get the one that supports it just to be safe, even though I am using analog output.

It was never with my module for some reason. I have a feeling that my board may have been an opened box that was returned to NewEgg. I have torn through everything that came with the board and never found the clip

I have a SB Live! sound card, and here lately it has been glitching a lot when playing back music. I have tried reinstalling drivers after cleaning them out with driver cleaner, but notice that it still glitches. I am not sure what else could be causing it, and it was never a problem until recently. I was thinking about just using the Karajan onboard sound module, but when I bought this motherboard it did not have the plastic retainer clip as well as the IDE cables in the box. I never sent it back to NewEgg because it would have been too hard to prove that the items were missing and I probably would have not gotten anywhere. If there was anyway to get the plastic clip that keeps the Karajan module stable then I would just pull the SB Live and go to the onboard until I can afford an X-Fi card. Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for the info. I haven't decided yet if I will make the move, but want to do some research before the fact just to make sure it is a move I want to take. I will check out that website and see what I can find. Some apps like Daemon Tools I probably couldn't live without, so I may just stay 32bit for the time being but I will read up what I can. Thanks!

If you have nothing to contribute to my post in the form of a correct answer, then please don't post.

I have been considering moving to Windows XP Professional x64 from regular Windows XP Professional, and the only real question I have is whether or not the DFI driver CD that came with my NF4-D board has 64bit drivers for the sound, NIC, and chipset for everything to be stable. I have a SoundBlaster Live that I will probably use so I know I can get 64bit drivers from Creative, and I know I can get 64bit drivers for my 6800 Ultra. I am just concerned that other needed drivers may not be available since 64bit capable CPU's were out long before Microsoft finished the x64 edition of XP Professional. Any answers would be awesome, thanks!

Nah, they aren't too expensive. I believe they are around $75 max for a consumer level print server. It only gets expensive once you get into enterprise solutions. More info here: For DLink: http://www.dlink.com/products/category.asp?cid=10 The HP ones are a tad spendy, after researching them. The only cheap one is the 170x which is for a parallel port printer only. No USB connectivity.

Heh, you should check into a print server like an HP JetDirect or one of the DLink ones if you have multiple computers on the network. That will free up teh printer so she has full run of it when you are nerding it up like the rest of us here

The actual app doesn't crash and close, but it just says that it has an error in the log and cannot continue the torture test. The other test will run just fine. For the powersupply, I am using an Antec NeoPower. I need to update my sig to reflect that, forgot the damn PSU I know for a fact that I need to connect the extra power connectors on the board and will get around to that Monday evening on my day off and go from there. Perhaps I don't have enough juice going to the board, and I was under the assumption that I didn't need to connect the extra power connectors like on my Intel 915PBL board if my PSU is ATX 2.0 capable. I just recently read on the forums that the connections are required for best performance and I will get it taken care of shortly and report back my findings

Prime always dumps out on me, but I have no instability issues with gaming at all. I have played BF2 for 5 hours straight with not one crash or other error but as soon as I load prime it just never wants to run the torture test. Everything else will benchmark fine, so I am starting to think that Prime is a false sense of security in terms of testing for stability based upon my experiences. Who knows...

I have sat with CPU Killer, we had lunch, and discussed water cooling. This guy's head is full of so many killer ideas, tips, tricks, and is always excited to talk about what he is passionate about. This is why I will look no further than Danger Den for any of my watercooling needs. These guys know what they are talking about, and they have the best customer service I have seen. i have e-mailed them before asking questions about recommended setups, and provided them with everything in my system that would need cooling as well as the case and they took the time to research their products, and figure out the best solution for my case. You are not gonna find that with other companies, and while the competition may manufacture quality products, quality products work hand in hand with quality customer service and this is where DD outshines everyone. They are second to none.

IIRC, it is usually better to go with a CPU such as a 3000+, 3200+, or even a 3500+ because the CPU with the higher stock frequency rates tend to be hand chosen to be labeled as such. I have read that buying something like a 3800+ or 4000+ can sometimes reduce your OC abilities because the CPU is already pressed for a higher speed and might not be able to pull much more speed. This could be why some people are getting insane OC's with the 3000+ and 3200+ Venice and San Diego's, because these CPU's have more overhead to work with. I am pretty impressed with my OC on my Winchester. I have gotten a nice stable 30% OC using air cooling, and the awesome guy that had this CPU before me had it cranked at 2.7GHz on water and I am sitting right at 2.6GHz. I can't really get much out of it due to a BSOD on Windows boot up, but I am sure I could tweak some other settings to get more. I sit idle anywhere from as low as 23C to 31C depending on room temp and hardly see over 40C on full load. I am new to AMD overclocking, so I am going to take my time and be a little careful until I learn more.

I agree, everyone on here so far has been a great help. It is good to see the support here, makes me glad I bought this board to get help from nice people.

Ah, crappy... Well, maybe in the future I will just swap out with a Venice or SD here before long. I was starting to get really pissed thinking that I had done something wrong and even ran memtest to make sure that the memory was ok. I hate jumping ship to something new, so much more to learn. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it tons!