BluePanda Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 I would recommend plumbers tape on threaded fittings for the same reason tim is recommended between components and heatsinks, to fill any gaps which could be present, and because its use is a standard practice. Just remember that it should ONLY be used between metal to metal contacts. Acrylic like I mentioned is a big no no when using tape. Delrin I'm not sure about but again doesn't seem necessary since it's really strong and seals really well as you can turn the barbs in rather tight. People tend to advise using the tape but forget to mention it's appropriate method of use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticknstone Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 I would use plumber's tape for plastic part threads because gaps may be present. I would definitly not tighten plastic parts together very tightly because they WILL crack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePanda Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 I would use plumber's tape for plastic part threads because gaps may be present. I would definitly not tighten plastic parts together very tightly because they WILL crack. Plumber's tape requires more tightening to avoid leaks because it is so slick and allows the fitting to spin. This is why it's not advised to be used on plastic parts, because like you said tightening plastic too much does cause them to crack. DO NOT USE PLUMBERS TAPE ON PLASTIC FITTINGS!! I would recommend not using the plumbers tape... if any pieces come loose down the road, it is possible for them to clog your pump. Though this may not seem very likely -- with any luck it would happen. In reality the small spaces that can be filled up by the tape make such little difference that using plumbers tape does not prove to be any better than not using it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maestr0 Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 (edited) I'll probably go without the tape because that seems easier. As for the radiator, I'm going with the Swiftek MCR220, and does anyone know if you can see led-lit fans beneath it? Just wondering if I should be picking up the two I want, or if they'll be wasted. Either way they're the cheapest, while offering up to 2000RPM. I already have 2 non-lit ones, but they're currently in use (one will free up as it's cooling the CPU, but I'll probably mount it on the bottom of the case for fun, and the other is mounted on the back of the case.). They work really well, and really quietly - they're only audible when fully spun up. EDIT: And a second thought - I've read that the reservoir should be at the top of the loop so that any air bubbles float up. This being the case, I would instead mount the radiator on the side of the case instead of the top. Opinions? Edited March 31, 2011 by maestr0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 EDIT: And a second thought - I've read that the reservoir should be at the top of the loop so that any air bubbles float up. This being the case, I would instead mount the radiator on the side of the case instead of the top. Opinions? Bleeding isn't that bad. My rad is at the top of my case and it's not too horrible to bleed. 3/8" versus 1/2" tube will produce no discernible difference in performance. Unless you're dead set on the looks of 1/2" tubing I'd go with 3/8". You can get it to fit over the pump barb pretty easily by dipping the end of the tube in near-boiling water to loosen it up. I'll suggest again that you use barbs + clamps over compression fittings (because barbs + clamps are more secure). They take slightly more effort to install and some people don't like the looks but the security they provide is worth it IMHO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maestr0 Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 (edited) So here's my final plan: Pump: Swiftek MCP655 - the normal one is back in stock! Radiator: Swiftek MCR220 Reservoir: EK X2 150 Basic CPU block: Koolance CPU-370 Tubing: Primochill UV Red 1/2" ID 3/4" OD 10 feet Fittings: Bitspower High Flow Pair x3 - rad, cpu, res Clamps: Swiftek Adjustable Hose Clamps pair x3 - rad, cpu, res GPU: EVGA GTX 580 FTW Hydro Copper 2 - comes with 1/2" barbs + clamps Fans: Cooler Master R4 x2 Total + Shipping + Tax: $1216.96 Ran out of 3/8" fittings of any kind, so I need to switch back to 1/2" Tubing: Primochill UV Red 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Fittings: Bitspower G1/4 High-Flow 3/8"ID Nickel-Plated x3 Clamps: Primochill Zinc-Plated Worm Drive Clamps x3 Edited March 31, 2011 by maestr0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 Just about shat a brick when I saw that price until I realized that includes a GTX580 with a stock waterblock. Looks like a good setup to me! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticknstone Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 No matter what you decide, it is good practice to read the instructions prepared by the manufacturer. Thier team of experts will no doubt provide the information pertenent to the component installation. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vivid2012 Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 No matter what you decide, it is good practice to read the instructions prepared by the manufacturer. Thier team of experts will no doubt provide the information pertenent to the component installation. Nice instructions for sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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