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Voltage change in bios has no effect


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So this problem is buried in a thread named "newb question" so I figured if I wanted an answer to it, I should probably post it in it's own thread... I just picked up an NFII Ultra Infinity on ebay used. Brand new 2500+ unlocked Barton, brand new ram and PSU (see sig). For some reason, when I change the bios settings for Vcore, Vdimm, and V chipset, the actual voltages don't change according to MBM5, hardware monitor, or the voltage monitors in the bios. After a reboot though, when I go back into the bios, the values that I specified are still there, but the monitor underneath them didn't change. I'm stuck at 1.65, 1.6, 2.6. The monitors aren't stuck or anything, I can see the values change a little (Vcore 1.64-1.67, etc). I reflashed to 6/19, no change. Everything else works as it should. The voltages definately aren't changing as I can't get the FSB up over like 185. (I've had it to 202x11 with the same components on an old A7N8X Deluxe Rev1.06 which are known to not like FSB speeds that high).

 

I've given the board a pretty complete visual on both sides twice now. I can't see anything wrong. Everything works as it should... at default speeds. It's very stable at 166x11. :rolleyes: I'm starting to rule things out, but I don't know where to go next. The FET's and the PWM bucks have to be ok to get the stable power I have now. I've already successfully flased my bios twice now, so I don't think it's that. I've tried the very long battery out CMOS clear several times, no change.

 

Is the cmos reloaded supposed to clear out the saved settings when you clear the cmos? It never does.

 

I'm at a loss now. As far as hardware goes, the only thing that isn't as it should be is the brand new panaflo I have on my SLK-800U has a bad rpm wire (no signal).

 

Where does the intersil HIP6301 get it's CMOS control from to tell it what voltage to set Vcore to? Has anyone ever seen this before? Any other ideas?

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I'm not sure about Infinities..... but my board has 3 mobo fan headers but only 2 of them have rpm sensors. You could probably move a couple of fans around to see if it's a problem with the fan or not.

 

CMOS Reloaded is not cleared my clearing the CMOS. You have to go to each setting and reset. DO NOT attempt to use the settings you set when using a different BIOS. Several people have killed their BIOS doing that.

 

Did you ever try reseating your cpu?

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Actually that's odd...

 

When I use the cmos backups it restores or overwrites any settings int eh bios without any probs...

Just that sometimes, if my board is acting wacky, I have to use both the clear cmos jumper and the insert key, then restore form a cmos backup.

 

So it does'nt work perfect, the cmos reloaded, but it should work alot better then what both of you have stated...(Edit: I think I miss understood KON, sorry)

 

 

Also, can you up past 1.65v vcore?

Maye the board is being locked down so it can't use anythign belowe that voltage.

I think it was called a war mod or something.

 

As for the rest of the voltages...

I dn why they would be locked down, does'nt make any sence.

Is the cmos battery any good?(ie there was a special trick to get more then 3.3v vmem by swapping out the battery and some other stuff).

Just somehting I figuered I'd add, maybe it's something like that.

 

You really don't need anything other then 1.6v for the north bridge, but it helps for memory at higher fsb's, ie around 250 and more.

Some absolutly need it, some don't really need it at all.

 

As for memory voltage, that will screw you over....

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I never even though about that with the CMOS reloaded... After loading optimized defaults, I've been loading a base config that I made a while ago. I'm going to try clearing it again, and going through by hand from the optimized defaults.

 

Yeah, the fan sensor is ok, it's the fan. I tried a different fan and it worked. I'm not too worried about it. I can hear the panaflo pretty well. Besides, the SLK-800U will keep the core from cooking itself even if the fan dies (been there). I think it's rated for slower XP's without a fan at all. You don't think the mobo not being able to see a fan rpm on the cpu would keep me from being able to raise the voltages, do you?

 

Reseated the cpu twice. It's weird though, to get the chip to "fall" into the socket, I have to start closing the arm a little before it goes. Can you disassemble the socket to make sure there isn't like a piece of leftover wire in there from a mod? I looked at the socket with an eye loupe, and there are some indentations around some of the pin holes where it looked like somebody did a wire mod(s) at one time.

 

Nope, can't change Vcore, Vdimm, or V chipset at all. Well, I can change them, and it sticks, but it has no effect on the real voltage. CMOS batt is good (3.15V).

 

Also, I forgot to mention, there's an SMD cap bridged between ground and one of the pins of one of the DIMM MOSFETs. I'm pretty sure it's just for filtering, but is there some mod that requires this? I can't see it keeping me from changing the Vcore or V chipset though.

 

Thanks for the input.

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Before you had cleared your cmos I had sorta' thought there may have been a pass word blocking changes.(That wouldn't stop the sensor at all though) But since then you've flashed also.(No anwser there)"Neo" I thought that too about the war mods. I posted the "amd" pin chart in the other thread. But on his board he seem's to be locked out of all voltage adjustment's. Not just the cpu. I'm sure there are other ways of lockin' stuff up like that but I myself am at a total lose as to how. (10 weird pencil tricks?) Sorta' back to stand-off's and paper-washers. (Sorry no help at all)

Edit: The fan sensor works now. Progress anyway.........Remember sensor 3 doesn't work anyway.. Edit2 You've twice checked and could find nothing strange?(no pencil marks or added wires?Behind the cpu socket or on the board?(Actually that is such a super-long shot I wouldn't even worry)

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Seriously, I think I would have known that something was password protected, but thanks for trying. When I said I was a newb, I meant to DFI boards, not to computers. [Life story]My first PC was a 286/10 (that's 10 megahertz... only 6 with the turbo button off) with a full height 5.25" 20 megabyte HD that I stacked to 40, 64KB memory, EGA video (16 colors), MS-DOS v3.3 and an ISA Microsoft InPort mouse (one of the first PS2 mice). I saved up for months to buy an ISA 8-bit Sound Blaster (still have it). I had a WWIV BBS that I modded in TC++. I had to unload my mouse driver so that I had enough memory to compile overnight. I even had an original copy of MS Windows 1.1I think I was like 13 or 14. Then I got a 386/20 with Windows 3.1, 486/66DX2 with Windows 95, then I found out about girls so there was a lull for a while and I skipped over the whole Pentium revolution until I got a PII-400 with Windows98 (just came out) a 3DFX Voodoo Banshee and two Voodoo2's in SLI. I could play Quake 2 at 1024x768. That was the $417. Q2 and Starcraft Lan Parties in my barracks in Germany with 10BaseT Enet running through the halls. All my game demos and directx updates came from MaximumPC magazine CD's since we didn't have web access. Now I'm married with kids, so dropping $50 on a used Ultra Infinity has to go through the proper channels and be approved by a governing party (wife).[/Life story]

 

Yeah, fan sensor problems are completely remedied, so is the problem I had with the +12V sense. We're not going to get into that, but it involved plugging in a fan into the fan header AND the IRDA header at the same time.... :rolleyes: A little bit of smoke later and my +12V sense didn't work anymore. _sigh_ Good thing I'm really good at soldering and multilayer board repair (IPC certified). The voltage problems existed before this fiasco, so don't go blaming that.

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Wish I was good at soldering. I'd do some vmod's. As it is I.R. basically a putts.LOL Lotsa experence puttin' w/puters though. Overclockin' to this degree is fairly new to me though.(New stuff all the time)

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Reseated the cpu twice. It's weird though, to get the chip to "fall" into the socket, I have to start closing the arm a little before it goes. Can you disassemble the socket to make sure there isn't like a piece of leftover wire in there from a mod? I looked at the socket with an eye loupe, and there are some indentations around some of the pin holes where it looked like somebody did a wire mod(s) at one time.

It seems like I've seen a picture of a socket disassembled. I can't remember where, though. Or maybe it was just busted.

 

If there are indentations from a previous wire mod, it's possible that the person doing the mod used wire that was too big and either bent or wore away some of the metal where it makes contact with the cpu pin. Yes, it seems like a long shot to me, too. But I spent some time overclocking an old Gateway (566 Celeron to 850) using wires in the socket and after a while it started to damage the socket.

 

To be honest. I think your board is screwed. If it were new I'd RMA it. Since it's not... I dunno.

 

Hey..... I know..... you could give it to your wife for Christmas. :tooth:

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It seems like I've seen a picture of a socket disassembled. I can't remember where, though.

Slightly off topic:I've seen that too. I sure wish I could find it now because my socket is really loose barely has any tension at all on the lever when it locks. It seem's I've seen rebuild kits too.

But I haven't got clue now as where to even start to look.

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armygreen11: Simular storey here. 8088 though.(I still have and 8086 here somewhere) The 8088 was my first overclock.(Swapped in a Nec v20) LOL My first build was a 486 dx-33(Edit big time!)what was I thinkin'?(I cooked a dx-2 66). I posted my computer storey for the most part in the toaster section. But still I'm just a putts.LOL And I fiddle w/computers.

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My 1st rig, or rigs(2 of them) were ibm ps2's, 386's, had 20meg mca drives in them.

Buaght a fpu for oen of them long ago, was then a 387 ^^.

 

I then got a 486 sx, I think it was a 25mhz, ibm ps1.

I had a few overdrive cpu's for it and etc.

One time I srewed over my p166(ibm) by getting it to close to a speaker, was a few feet away but the magnet was big enough to fry it.

 

So at the time I had to go back to a 486, and work with it.

This was at the time of 500mhz+'s, stuff like that.

 

I had 2 overdrive cpu's left, both were a bit goofy, one still worked allright.

The one that worked eventually went out on me completely.

The one that was a bit goofy, well was working again just fine.

I managed to damange a pin on it though at some time or another, broke a pin off I mean.

Pop'ed it in for the heck of it and instead of dx2-50 it reg'ed as a dx2-66 :D.

 

Sometime after that, about 3months after the p166 died it worked again(p166), just needed a rest hehe.

 

The was my 2nd oc'ing experience, my 1st was with the p166, and a p133 I had(the 133 evetually was givien away long long ago, long story).

 

Anyways I had that up to 183mhz or somehting, nothing big.

Never could get it to 200mhz, well once when I finally got a fan ^^, but that did'nt last to long, a few weeks and eventually 183 was'nt even stable so...

 

I had a k62-350 next that I allways had oc'ed to 400.

Had that for a few years, until I upgraded to a atxp 1.6+, aopen mobo, had that few about 2 years maybe and got this mobo.

 

Life stories are cool lol :).

 

I'm glad to see someone else that knows what dos is : :), I can't believe the majority of people out there don't know how to use it, or even know what it is.

I still use it from time to time to this day.

 

 

Edit:

Sorry to carry on but, yesterday I found that dos is partially working in my 2k3 install :).

Has sb64 support now and vesa1, the sb64 support seems odd though I dn if it's my sound drivers in windows or somehting else, ie the prog I used in dos, or just windows.

Vesa1 support is freaking sweet though, that was one major issue I had with 2kpro, no vesa at all...

I just need vesa2 support now...

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