Lots O' Questions

[opiatevader]

For a long time, I have been reading and researching everything that I could about my first computer build, which I hope to start sometime this summer. Some of the sites I have been looking at are Here, of course, pcMech.com, Tom's, FrostyTech.com, etc.

I have had some minor experience in working with hardware. I have changed my GPU when the first one burnt out. I have taken apart and put back together an older PC that the wifey got from work.

 

I am planning on using my PC for Gaming Online, Streaming Media Center, School (going back for I.T. & Web Science or Information Systems) and General daily usage.

 

I would really like some input on if any of you see any glaring problems that could be solved with a different product or whatever.

 

So let's start with what I have planned for this Beast:

 

Case: Cooler Master HAF-X

MoBo: Asus Crosshair IV Formula

Chip: Phenom II x6 1090T (Black Edition)

GPU: Radeon HD 6850 1GB

Power: Corsair Pro AX 850w

SSD: Kingston SSDNow V+ 64GB OR Crucial RealSSD C300 64GB

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA 6.0

Sound: Creative SB X-Fi Xtreme 7.1

Cooler: Tuniq Tower 120

OS: Windows 7 Pro 64bit

 

So that's the system. I think everything will run okay, but, I don't know, I'm still a noob until this is finished and working properly.

 

Which SSD would you trust more and why? I haven't had any drives

Recently I found out about the QVL lists of all these parts and learned that I should get different RAM. That's why it's not up there. I was going to use a GSkill, but, come to find out, it's for a Intel chip board and I have a AMD on mine.

The RAM I'm looking at now is the Patriot Viper Xtreme DDR3 2000 (2x4GB), BUT, I'm open to anything as long as it fits under the Tuniq Tower and is 8GB (2x4GB)

 

I have thought about doing water cooling, but, I think I have enough on my plate right now with this extensive of a build without adding in that ball of wax... I'm getting a pretty hefty CPU cooler and my case is set up with ducts for GPU cooling. But, that'll be my next upgrade when I add the second GPU.

 

So, What do you guys think? Will it run? Will it brick as soon as I turn it on? Will I need Wil Wheaton to get a couple of more will's in this line...

 

Other than the RAM, I am also hoping the community will help me along with some specific resources for overclocking this beast. I'm not looking for 4.2 GHZ or anything crazy like that, but, I am looking to get the most out of this while stable (75% overclock). I know that's probably sacrilege on this site, but, I am looking at between $1500 - $1800 in this set up. There's nothing to salvage from my current computer, 2003 Alienware AMD. It's just too old.

 

Also, what are some guidelines to tying up cords and cables? Just tie them up where it looks good or in a systematic manner? Power with power, sata with sata, etc.?

 

I guess that's enough for now.

 

Thank you in advance and I am planning on posting all throughout the build.

[Alexandre]

Welcome to OCC mate!

 

Have you looked into the i5 2500K or i7 2600K CPU rather than the AMD Phenom II x6 1090T BE? Just in case you haven't, check out OCC's review on these new CPUs from Intel.

The 2500k is around the same price point as the 1090T and performs better, making it more bang for your bucks

 

Since you said you will hope to start building it by next summer (I am assuming your in the northern hemisphere then), this will mean that the problem with the P67 chipset motherboards will be fixed by the time you build. I think that you will benefit a lot more from the new Sandy Bridge system as these CPUs overclock very easily, have great performance and will allow you to save money on the CPU cooler as they run a lot cooler.

 

What do you think mate?

[MercuryDoun]

Welcome to OCC mate!

 

Have you looked into the i5 2500K or i7 2600K CPU rather than the AMD Phenom II x6 1090T BE? Just in case you haven't, check out OCC's review on these new CPUs from Intel.

The 2500k is around the same price point as the 1090T and performs better, making it more bang for your bucks

 

Since you said you will hope to start building it by next summer (I am assuming your in the northern hemisphere then), this will mean that the problem with the P67 chipset motherboards will be fixed by the time you build. I think that you will benefit a lot more from the new Sandy Bridge system as these CPUs overclock very easily, have great performance and will allow you to save money on the CPU cooler as they run a lot cooler.

 

What do you think mate?

 

Also, SSD for the win.

[opiatevader]

I haven't looked into the Intel stuff, I'm kinda a AMD guy. My old system I've had for 7+ years is AMD and I've not had a single problem with it in that time.

 

I'll read up on them though, thanks for the links to the articles.

 

Thanks for the welcome!

Edited February 11, 2011 by opiatevader

[broooooooce]

If you do go with the 1090T, you only NEED DDR3 1333, or DDR3 1600 if you want some headroom. Also, the PSU is overkill. I run a similar video card with the 1090T on 560 watts. Unless you are planning to SLI in the future, I'd back off to no more than 600 watts.

[opiatevader]

Thanks for the tip Caxis! I had been looking at DDR 1600 ram, but thought the 2000 might be better in the long run. Knowing this now, I can save some more $$$ on this build, thanks!

[MercuryDoun]

Thanks for the tip Caxis! I had been looking at DDR 1600 ram, but thought the 2000 might be better in the long run. Knowing this now, I can save some more $$ on this build, thanks!

 

Of course faster ram is nice too, lol, but i mean i went with 1600mhz ram as well. Unless going for above average overclocking, there is no reason to get 2000mhz ram. With my i7 system i really only wanted 4.0ghz in the beginning but now im interested in much higher overclocks for fun. I wish i had a set of 2000mhz ram now. But with the 1090t and its unlocked Multiplier i cant imagine your bclk getting very high as to require anymore more than 1600mhz ram. So i think 1600 is a good choice. I highly recommend Mushkin memory, ive had great success with mine, heck my 1600mhz mushkin memory overclocks really well too, ive taken it as hit as 1914mhz before!

 

You ever thought about a different cooler? I dont remember the Tuniq tower 120 being very good for its price... Something like the cheap Cooler Master Hyper 212+ will keep that 1090t cool even upto 4.0Ghz, Ask El_capi hes had a 1090t under a Hyper 212+ before. Its a good cooler and they are only $25-$30USD. But if your looking for more of a higher quality cooler, then something like the Prolimatech Megahalems, Noctua NH-D14, or the Zalman CNPS9900max, are really awesome quality coolers that will get your Phenom II nice and chilly even with some pretty extreme overclocks!

 

Caxis recommend if not doing xfire or something getting a weaker PSU, i disagree however, a higher rated power supply usually runs more efficient on lighter loads saving you money on your power bill every month, and you never know what you might want to do a year from now and having a beefy power supply leaves you options wide open. IMO spend the extra $20 on the PSU now.

[Renigade]

Will a 120MM CPU coler clear that side fan?

[opiatevader]

I have looked at the Noctua NH-D14 (BIG BIG BIG!) and the Thermaltake Frio. Nothing is set in stone though...

 

I am still going to go with a larger PSU because I do have plans for crossfire in the future.

[opiatevader]

Will a 120MM CPU coler clear that side fan?

 

 

It's easily removable if it's in the way, but it should fit.

Cooler Master says GPU coolers are the only things that could get in the way

[broooooooce]

Caxis recommend if not doing xfire or something getting a weaker PSU, i disagree however, a higher rated power supply usually runs more efficient on lighter loads saving you money on your power bill every month, and you never know what you might want to do a year from now and having a beefy power supply leaves you options wide open. IMO spend the extra $20 on the PSU now.

 

This is patently false. The opposite is true. Power supplies are most efficient from ~45-65% load (this varies with each PSU, but this is the typical range). They are slightly less efficient at higher loads, and MUCH less efficient at lower loads (because the excess power is wasted as heat). So you would be paying more for a hotter case and a higher power bill. This is the third time this month I've had to clarify this--I wish I could find the person who started the rumor that higher wattage = higher efficiency at low loads. I would castrate them.

 

For that PSU, you would have to be using about 400 to 500 watts CONSTANTLY to take advantage of it's optimum efficiency. The max that that system could draw if every drive was spinning, if the CPU was under it's max load and the GPU was at it's very max load, and if every LED and FAN wwere glowing it's brightest and spinning it's fastest doesn't even hit 500 watts. Under normal operating conditions, you probably aren't using but around 200 watts.

 

Furthermore: the idea that a higher wattage PSU is somehow future proofing your box is not one that I agree with. Wall sockets in the US and Europe are only capable of supporting a limited amount of power in watts anyway so this number is not going to just keep growing. If anything, the new trend is to create chips and components that are "green", that is they are just as capable yet use less power. Additionally, it's not like you are going to use the same PSU for life--as with any electrical component--it has a limited lifespan. As capacitors age, a PSU grows less efficient. I suggest not worrying about some hypothetical box down the road and just building the best box you can today.

 

I'm an electrical engineering undergrad who has been building computers since the mid 90s--but don't take my word for it, google is just a tab away.

Bruce

 

Besides: the wattage isn't even as important as the current in amps that the PSU is capable of delivering. Also, don't get a cheap PSU.

 

 

/soapbox

[opiatevader]

This is patently false. The opposite is true. Power supplies are most efficient from ~45-65% load (this varies with each PSU, but this is the typical range). They are slightly less efficient at higher loads, and MUCH less efficient at lower loads (because the excess power is wasted as heat). So you would be paying more for a hotter case and a higher power bill. This is the third time this month I've had to clarify this--I wish I could find the person who started the rumor that higher wattage = higher efficiency at low loads. I would castrate them.

 

For that PSU, you would have to be using about 400 to 500 watts CONSTANTLY to take advantage of it's optimum efficiency. The max that that system could draw if every drive was spinning, if the CPU was under it's max load and the GPU was at it's very max load, and if every LED and FAN were glowing it's brightest and spinning it's fastest doesn't even hit 500 watts. Under normal operating conditions, you probably aren't using but around 200 watts.

 

I'm an electrical engineering undergrad who has been building computers since the mid 90s--but don't take my word for it, google is just a tab away.

Bruce

 

Besides: the wattage isn't even as important as the current in amps that the PSU is capable of delivering. Also, don't get a cheap PSU.

 

 

So I'm not going to use a 850w, BUT, I'm going to get something bigger than a 550w. I've been looking for a simple wattage calculator so that I could figure it out on my own. I've been configuring computers on sites like Ibuypower.com and cyberpowerpc.com to see what they recommend for a build of my size. I'm probably going to get a 700 or 750 PSU. That was my original thought until I read the same "higher wattage = higher efficiency at low loads" rumor, thus the 850w PSU. I'd like to dial in exactly what I need for my final build before I buy anything.