PeterStoba Posted February 13, 2009 Posted February 13, 2009 Hello, Decided to jump on the bandwagon after a bit of persuasion and have just ordered some watercooling stuff and a new case to put it in It's not gonna be as good as some of the things on here, but should be ok, as long as it doesn't leak! Specifications Lian Li PC-A70B Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3 Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 Sapphire 4850 512MB 2x2GB OCZ Reaper X DDR2 800 Corsair HX520w Samsung Spinpoint SATA 160GB Sony-NEC-Optiarc SATA DVD-RW Thermochill PA120.3 Swiftech Apogee GTZ DDC 18w & Petrastech top XSPC Clear single drive bay res XSPC Blue UV 7/16" Tubing Feser One Clear Coolant 1/2" barbs Plans Get the hardware in, all wires tidied Get the watercooling in, get used to it, see what it can do Upgrade to i7 and better graphics card Get a window cut, but something odd shaped and original Fan controller Replace the stock fans with yate loons, and braid them Replace the switches with vandal switches Cut some holes in the motherboard tray for cable mangement if there aren't good enough routes of putting them Powdercoat the internals / externals Before shots: Air cooled, old case and PSU Right, got all my bits today, installed the GTZ on my motherboard and I'm gonna do the rest tomorrow after some thinking. On the GTZ, on the actual block, where the screws come through the mounting plate, there are little washer type things on them, one was missing, is this ok? Also, how far do I tighten it? Right the way in or just until it begins to get tight? It feels and looks even on all 4 screws so should be ok right? I've left the sticky pad covers on the backplate so I can reused with a new mobo, should also be ok? Now, I need some sort of loop order, does it matter which is in or out on a rad? Pump out - block in - block out - rad in - rad out - res in - res out - pump in It sounds ok in theory but I'm sure there's an issue with it. Once I know it's ok the way the block is mounted and a loop order is sorted I'll be building and filling (filling, how? no t-line, use the res outside the case and them screw it in somehow or am I missing something?) Peter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterStoba Posted February 14, 2009 Posted February 14, 2009 All of the water cooling stuff The case stripped out The bits from the case The apogee GTZ on the mobo, you can see the washer type things i was talking about earlier on the first picture of the block Set up ready for leak testing once the pump and tubing is in Not convinced that I can make the tubing go from the rad to the res easily... any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterStoba Posted February 15, 2009 Posted February 15, 2009 Small update - got it all tubed up, out barbs on the cpu block is leaking ,need a replacement, will hopefully be done in time for the forum wars! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coors Posted February 15, 2009 Posted February 15, 2009 Are you using teflon tape? Leaks are a very bad thing lol. Looks good though. Not sure on the washers and the GTZ. I'd go back over the directions. It should tell you exactly how to mount it and how much to tighten it. If the GTZ is like the D-Tek fusion it is very easy to over tighten them. I make 12 turns alternately on each screw for my D-tek. Direction in the rad doesn't matter. Personally I like having my rad right before the cpu. I actually hooked mine up just the other night. I kinda rushed the layout of the tubing. Didn't really feel like perfecting it and wanting to just get it up and running. I don't think my case appreciated the hack job I did on it. It ain't pretty but it works lol. I'll get around to finishing up the fan holes later on. Maybe repainting the whole case too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterStoba Posted February 15, 2009 Posted February 15, 2009 I've got the block to stop leaking now by tightening the barbs a bit more. Back on track. I just need to get rid of the air, how can i do that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coors Posted February 15, 2009 Posted February 15, 2009 (edited) It just takes time. Having the res the highest point in the loop helps but isn't required. It probably took mine about an hour to get as clear as it is. Just have to keep adding water to the res until it stops going down. At the beginning it helps to turn the pump on and off a few times about 30 seconds at a time. You don't want it running with very little water going through for very long since it gets it's cooling from the water itself. Edited February 15, 2009 by Raiderfan001 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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