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spikey_richie

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  1. OCZ4001024ELGEGXT-K Yes, it's the same RAM!
  2. Manually entered them into the DRAM timings.
  3. I've now pumped it up to 2530mhz 230mhz FSB, 11x mult. and I've locked in the RAM timings (CAS-TRCD-TRP-TRAS) Now to see how stable it is
  4. I sometimes have this with my Olympus E500. Are you safely removing the device before unplugging it? If not, the next time you plug it in the message you have will appear.
  5. I've been messing with my OC today. I used to just have my FSB set to 220mhz, with a 180mhz divider. I read a thread on here about OC'ing, so had a play around. (here) I've found the PC boots and loads apps. MUCH faster when the FSB is set to 205mhz, the CPU/FSB mult. to 11x (can't go any higher than 11, CPU-Z just reports it as 11x) and the LDT/FSB to 2.5x Is this right? Or am I doing something wrong?
  6. Been trying to find a HSF that fits the PWM IC, but can't find one. Suggestions?
  7. Not yet, it's running UDAgent so it's at 100% all the time. Will Prime95 make a big difference to UDAgent running? I mean it terms of CPU reliability/stability testing...
  8. It'd be better if I understood it all a bit better The PWM IC was getting up to 60°C, and the CPU to 39°C so i've turned the fans up and got those back down.
  9. Been tweaking my FSB and VCore a bit more Managed to get to 2.54mhz on a 64 3400+ socket 754
  10. Pics of the rig here if anyone's interested...
  11. Fixed I'd left off the 4-pin CPU power connector, so the CPU was being powered from the regular mobo power connector. Realised the error in my ways when I paused UDAgent and the voltage shot up to 11.5v Now back to 11.84v on 100% load, 11.96v on idle
  12. The water cooling was in there before. All i've added is the 2 front case LED's. But i've removed fan and an EL wire transformer. I'll take a look at the mobo ATX connector, as I un-plugged that. Maybe it's not in quite right.. Thanks for both your replies
  13. I have just dismantled and rebuilt my PC, as it was a mess inside. Before I took it apart, my voltages were pretty accurate and very stable. Now my 12v supply is reading 11.11v in the BIOS, and 10.3v in Smartguardian. All I have done is plug my water pump, rad fan power and temperature sensor power into the HDD power lead. Removed 1 fan, and bundled away all the other power leads I don't need. Any ideas?
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