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No Response from RMA'd board


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Hi, i've been reading around on the forums, and am currntly trying to clear cmos, but i figured i'd ask around to see if i'm even barking up the right tree while i am waiting.

 

I've got a Sli-DR that was treating me very well for almost a year. nothing was overclocked. and i upgraded to a 4800+ a few months ago. Recently i was on vacation for 3 weeks, during which time i had my maching off. when i returned it worked fine. a few weeks later i was gone for ~5 days. during which the computer was off. when i returned it wouldn't boot at all. (no fans spin, nothing beeps) i didn't have any time to mess with it because i was about to move across the country. I ended up RMA'ing the board and when they delivered the replacement, fedex didn't get a signature, they just left it on the back step. ... well then someone stole it. Finally today (over a month after my computer quit working) i recieved a board from DFI.

 

Needless to say i was anxious to get my pc up and running again. I've put it all together and it is again unresponsive. the only thing that lights up is a single amber light on the mother board below the pci slots that is labeled LED1 and one near the dimm 3 slot labeled LED5. i plugged in the debug lights, and none of them light up. the only other thing that lights up is one of the meter lights on my ram lights up about half way i unplugged everything besides the ram cpu and video card. and still the same thing. The PSU i use is the only 24 pin PSU i have, so i can't test another PSU on my board, but i did test my PSU on another computer (with a chaintech Zenith NF2 board) and it booted up.

 

Donna at DFI was really helpful in getting me this motherboard, with all of the FedEx hasstle and all, but i really hope it wasn't all for naught.

 

--Is there any hope to get this thing to boot?

--Does only having LED1 light up mean anything?

--Has anyone had a similar experience and actually gotten it working again by leaving the cmos battery out for those mentioned extended amout of times?

--Shouldn't a board straight from DFI work?

 

 

Thanks for any help you can offer

 

 

-Luke

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Well, since no one else has jumped in...

 

You are doing the right thing by trying the long CMOS clear.

 

Your PSU may have died. Have you tried to jumper the PSU? You should purchase a PSU from the recommended list.

 

Is there any hope to get this thing to boot?

Yes, just hang in there.

 

Does only having LED1 light up mean anything?

It means that there is power being applied to the board, but it doesn't necessarily mean there is enough power for the system to run.

 

Has anyone had a similar experience and actually gotten it working again by leaving the cmos battery out for those mentioned extended amout of times?

Lot's of people. That's why it's probably the most prescribed remedy on this forum. ;)

 

Shouldn't a board straight from DFI work?

Personally, I have a high degree of confidence that your problem is not related to your board.

 

Good luck. Search these forums, there is a ton of great info here.

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Update: So i had the pc plugged in with the PSU switched on for a while, did something else for a while, came back and hit the power button the mobo and it fired up. .... except i didn't have a monitor plugged into it so i have no idea what happened. i turned it off and hooked up a hard drive and a monitor, and now it is back to its dead like state again.

 

Is it possible that it needs to "warm up" with the power attached for a while first before it will boot??

 

 

has anyone had a similar situation?

 

 

i've been building computers since pentium 1's came out, and this is the most confused i have ever been.

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Thanks for the replies guys. ... I hadn't seen them when i posted the update. It's going to really bug me if it is the power supply that is the problem since it was antec's best PSU when i bought it. and i have never had problems with an antec PSU before.

 

additionally i used my PSU to power up another PC. Is it possible that it would be bad on my DFI but Fine on the other board? (the other pc has an Athelon XP (forget the number, but not 64 bit) 3 hard drives and a dvd)

 

I also built an identical rig for my old roommate at the same time i initially built mine, except he had dual GeForce 6800. and the PSU handeled it just fine.

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Try a minimum build and see what happens. Mobo/CPU, 1 stick RAM outer orange slot, vid card. If it fires up, start adding components until it doesn't fire up any more.

 

EDIT: From reading your post above, it seems that you are already attempting the minimum build.

 

I read the part where you said that you powered another system with this PSU at least 3 times and it went right out of my head.:rolleyes: Just because it will work on that other system does not mean it will work with this one- I know it worked before, I read that part. ;) Believe me, you hang around here long enough, you will see this same issue over and over and over.

 

With all of that said, I think you need to try the proper long CMOS clear. As mentioned and linked above.

 

Is it possible that it needs to "warm up" with the power attached for a while first before it will boot??

Some people have suggested this in relation to the supposed "cold boot" problem. The thing is that a recommended PSU virtually always fixes the cold boot problem. So, take that for what it's worth.

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thanks. i'll keep at it. i appreciate your response.

 

another i remembered as a testiment to this PSU, at one time i had 11 hard drives spinning at once in this rig +2 optical drives powered up. +all usb ports full, and an Ipod charging on the firewire.

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thanks. i'll keep at it. i appreciate your response.

 

another i remembered as a testiment to this PSU, at one time i had 11 hard drives spinning at once in this rig +2 optical drives powered up. +all usb ports full, and an Ipod charging on the firewire.

 

 

PSU's do lose power over time and your's is the minimum requirement for a DFI board. If you've had it for a while I would deifnitely look into a new PSU. For all the equipment your running I would suggest the OCZ GxE 700 or higher

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