Curlyp

Well, after further investigation, it seems like my radiators are not leaking water (which is a good thing). The fans are leaking oil; the spots on the fans are really shiny. Not sure how this is happening, but it definitely is not water. Has anyone seen this happen before?

I am attacking the fans to the rand with 5/16 in (about 7mm) screws. If you put the screw in without the fan, it does not even touch the fins. So, with the fans attached, I am in about 2-3 mm.

Hello Community, I am having some issues with my first -time water cooling build. My original build post is here I did have the Black Ice GTX 360 radiators, however, (being a noob), I accidentally punctured the radiators with long screws (which I did not know at the time), until I had everything up and running, and water was leading on my fans. I currently and running a Push Pull on two XSPC RX360 with Ultra Kaze Scythe (12 Fans total). I put on the new radiators Friday, and everything has been fine. Today, there is little water spots on the left radiator top fan (picture is below). All my fittings are tight and I am not having any leakage in the system. I used a flashlight to look between each blade (front and back) and do not see any water on the radiator. I am stumped as to why I am getting some water on the inner rims of my fans. There is two possible reasons that I can think of: The Ultra Kaze 3000RPM fans is too much for a push pull setup and some how is pushing water out of the fins (too much power) There could be possible condensation on the radiator and the fans is blowing it out I am not sure if either of my two reasons are accurate, but that is the only ones I can come up with. If anyone one has any suggestions to help me out, I would appreciate it. Thanks!

At the time, I did not know what radiators were the "best". I did my research (which this radiator gets great reviews), and spoke with a rep from FrozenCPU and he recommended the Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator, as it is one of the best on the market. I am still new to the water cooling, so I am learning as much as I can. According to others, as long as I have a high static pressure fan on my radiators, I should have no problem. Plus, I have already bought the radiators. If I was going to return them, I would have a 20% restocking fee.

Thanks Waco. Hmm, maybe I will order 6 of the Yate Loon 120mm x 38mm Fans and look into testing them so I can provide you and the community with results. I need to do some research on how I can test CFM and Static pressures of a fan. I tried reaching online the static pressure for the Yate Loon 120mm x 38mm Fans, but had no luck. I will research some more after dinner. A buddy from work recommended that I use two different types of fans with different static pressures. His reason is: I am using radiators with higher FINs, so I want to use a fan with higher static pressure To provide optimal cooling, the intake of air should be greater than the exhaust With my case he suggests: The front 9 fans (which include my two radiators), and the back 5, should have higher static pressure to allow maximum air flow in The top 12 fans should have lower static pressure, so the amount of air leaving is low. I am not sure if what he is suggesting is correct or accurate. However, if it is, below are the two fans I am thinking about: 120mm Yate Loon D12SL-12 Red LED Case Fan - Clear (I still get to keep my red theme ) Specifications: Model: D12SL-12 Fan Size: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm Speed: 1250 +/- 10% RPM Airflow: 38.5 CFM Static Pressure: 0.8mm H2O (1.1mm H2O Max) Noise: 25.4 dBA Bearing: Sleeve Voltage: 12 V Current: .15 Amp Max Fan Life: 20,000 hours Connector: 3pin and 4pin pass-through connector Yate Loon 120mm x 38mm Fan - Low Speed (D12SL-12D) Specifications: Dimensions: 120 x 120 x 38 mm Nominal Voltage: 12 V DC Input Current: 0.30A Max Nominal speed: 1350 RPM Airflow: 48 CFM Noise level: 23 dBA Bearing Type: Sleeve Frame Style: Open Chassis Connector: Standard 3-Pin & Standard 4-Pin Pass-Through What do you and the community think?

Thanks for the heads up. I will look at the 25mm fans from Petra's. Muchoman1 got me excited about the 38mm fans! Oh well, if the 25mm still perform as well as the 38mm, then I guess there would be no difference, or if there is it would be minimal. I would say your trying to educated me rather than making it complicated. **Edited** I just found these Yate Loon 120mm x 38 mm fans on FronzenCPU. I ordered some on my water cooling parts from them and they seem legit. What do you think?

Thank you both for the suggestion on the Yate fans. Just to make sure I am getting the right Yate Fan, is this it? The price is only $6.99 x 26 = $181.74. Not bad. I can scrap my Cool Master SickleFlow Red LED theme and insert a Red LED bar instead. I do have one requesting regarding the specifications below: Technical data: Dimensions: 120x120x38mm Rated Voltage: 12V DC Voltage Range: 6.5V - 13.2V DC Speed: 1350 rpm +/- 10% Airflow: 41 CFM Noise level: 22dB(A) MAX 29dB(A) Corners: Open Bearing: Sleeve Connector: 3pin and 4pin Molex Frame and Fan Color: Black LEDS: None The fan speed is only 1350 RPM compared to 2000 RPM, noise level is higher, and the Airflow is lower. I am guess that the thicker blade compensates for the lower RPM which is able to provide more airflow?

I will add the motherboard water block once it has been released. According to someone on the EVGA forums, EK is in the process of making it. Hopefully soon it will be release. I have not assembled anything but the case, thus far. My last shipment of water cooling items should be delivered today. Then I will work on it this weekend. The CPU was one of the last parts I bought and I am glad I waited. I was able to pick it up for $289.00 compared to $359.00. My main concern was getting the motherboard and the GPU from EVGA before anything. EVGA was out of stock on both, so I had to "camp" the website daily.

Thanks for your input boinker. I have not thought about cooling the motherboard chipset. However, I looked into it, and as of right now, there is not a company (from that I researched) that makes a motherboard chipset for the EVGA Z77FTW, as the board is still new. Is there any big advantage to water cooling the motherboard chipset? I compared the Scythe Gentle Typhoons to the Cool Master SickleFlow, and the CM SF seem to out perform it. Cool Master SickleFlow 120 mm - 2000 rpm: 0.35A - 19 dBA - 69.69 CFM Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120 mm - 1,850 rpm: 0.083 A - 28 dBA - 98 m³/h - 57 CFM Unless, the Scythe Gentle Typhoons have higher static pressure, then they would definitely out perform the CM SF on the radiators.

I looked on the manufactures website and in the features it has 'Custom MaxFin™ 25 micron Copper Splitter Fin'. The Koolance CPU water block is Nickel-Plated Copper, Stainless Steel, POM Acetal, EPDM. Although, I wonder if I should have went with CPU-370 Water Block, Rev1.1 over the current one I bought CPU-370SI Water Block since it claims to have an optimized flow path minimize coolant restriction. The Koolance GPU water block is Nickel-Plated Copper, Nickel-Plated Brass, Stainless Steel, POM Acetal, EPDM. Since all three products have copper in them, then I should be fine using distilled water? Tjj226_Angel had recommend that I use clear tubing to watch the water for any color changes. I bought and have red tubing to go with my red theme. I wonder if it would be in my best interest to return it and get clear tubing. Or does not it make a difference?

Thanks for the advice. I will double check on the radiators to see if they are nickel platted or copper. If for some reason my metals are different, is there any additives that I can add to prevent the possibility of corrosion? Also, now that I ask thinking about it, I may return the ram blocks and accessories, since I don't plan on overclocking it. That would save me an extra $179.00 I was only going to cool it for the looks. What do you think?

Hello Everyone, I am reaching out to the community here for some assistance with liquid cooled systems. I am not new to building computers, however, when it comes to liquid cooled systems, I am a novice. I have been conducting a lot of research over the last several weeks, mainly on Distilled water with a Silver Coil/and or PTNuke vs. Pre-mixed coolant. Each has their pros and cons, which were argued very well. As being new to the liquid coolant world, I am still undecided with which cooling solution I should use. The main points that have been argued are: Distilled Water with Silver Coil/PTNuke Pros: No conductivity, but over time does become conductive More efficient in cooling than pre-mixed solution by 1-5 degrees Silver Coil/PTNuke is an antimicrobial and helps against growth of algae Cheap Cons: Does not help prevent corrosion Pre-mixed Solution Pros: Helps protect against corrosion and growth of algae Cons: Runs 1-5 degrees hotter than Distilled Water High chance to clog blocks Ability to cause corrosion if using mixed metals More expensive It seems like a “no-brainer” to go with Distilled Water and Silver Coil/PTNuke. My only concern is my blocks are not protected against corrosion. I called Koolance to get their opinion on Distilled Water and Silver Coil/PTNuke; since my CPU, GPU, and RAM blocks are Koolance. Surprisingly, the gentleman confirmed the pros and cons for both, but has the concern about the potential corrosion with Distilled Water. In addition, to his concern with corrosion, he said that all brands of distilled water is different, so depending on which brand you buy the results will vary. He suggested the Koolance LIQ-702 Liquid Coolant Bottle, High-Performance, 700mL (Colorless), not because he works for Koolance, but because of the corrosion prevention additive, and the fact that they make their own distilled water in house (due to all other distilled water being different). He also pointed out that a lot of companies manufacture pre-mixed coolant, but do not conduct tests for the longevity of the system, which in turn gives companies that make a good quality coolant (and the hardware) a bad name. On a side note, I read somewhere that using Prestone Anitfreeze Coolant for you car is viable for PC cooling. I am not sure that I would want antifreeze in PC! I am open to all comments and suggestions that any of you may have to help assist me. If I happened to provide incorrect information above, please let me know. Below is my build, as it may help decide which coolant I should use: General Parts: Case: Mountain Mods Extended Ascension Motherboard: EVGA Z77 FTW Processor: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5 GHz Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM (PC3 12800) HDD: 2 x Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC 1 x Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 1 TB SATA Media Drive: Samsung 22X DVD Burner Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 690 Power Supply: OCZ Fatal1ty 1000W Individually-Sleeved Modular Gaming 80Plus Gold Power Supply Case Fan: 25 x CoolerMaster Fan R4-L2R-20AR-R1 120mm Sickle Flow 2000rpm LED Red BlackCurrent Water Cooling Items: 1 x Koolance CPU-370SI Intel Liquid Cooling CPU Block - (No Fittings) 1 x Koolance VID-NX690 GeForce VGA Liquid Cooling Block (No Fittings) 1 x Koolance RAM-33 Water Block (No Fittings) 1 x Koolance RP-452X2 Dual 5.25" Reservoir Rev 2.0 (Serial or Parallel) w/ Dual Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump Installed 2 x Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator – Black 14 x XSPC G1/4" Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Low Profile Compression Fitting 2 x Enzotech G1/4" Thread 90-Degree Rotary 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting 3 x Sliding 180-Degree U Connector (Memory) 2 x Nozzle Single, Swivel/Lock Barb for ID 10mm (3/8in) (Memory) 2 x PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT 10ft Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall 1 x ArctiClean 1 & 2 (Thermal Material Remover and Surface Purifier) - 60ml Kit 1 x Danger Den Premium Tube Cutter - Designed For 3/4" OD I am going to run a two-loop system. One loop for RAM and CPU. Second loop for GPU. I am still deciding on how to run the first loop. Pump/Reservoir -----> RAM -----> CPU -----> RAD -----> Pump/Reservoir The reason for this design is the RAM heat is going to be very minimal, so carrying it to the CPU should not effect it. Pump/Reservoir -----> CPU -----> RAM -----> RAD -----> Pump/Reservoir The reason for this design is the water is the coldest coming from the pump, so cooling the CPU would be beneficial (since Ivy Bridges run hotter than Sandy Bridge), but not sure if I want to transfer the heat to the RAM. Below are two pictures of my case. The radiators will mount vertically (not horizontal) in the front, due to the space available. One will be on the left, the second one on the right, and three CoolerMaster Fan R4-L2R-20AR-R1 120mm Sickle Flow 2000rpm LED Red BlackCurrent in the middle. The front and back of the case will be the intake for air, and the top will be the exhaust (since heat rises). Any thoughts for my loop design? Thanks in advance for all of your assistance with my build.