yu130960

I originally cut away the body of the fan to be a spacer for my XP120. So I had this fan left over, then I saw someone take away the original bracket and fan and attach an 80mm. If you look closely you will see one black tie strap that holds it in place near the top of the card. After more testing, at 12 volts the fan works okay is quieter and leaves the temps at close to stock. At 7 volts the temps are about +12C under load 61 degrees. The heatsink is designed to have air blow through it and not have air blow down. Also, with the 120 there is a massive deadspot, so I guess that is why the performance is lack luster. Although it did not cost me a dime, and was worth the try. I may leave it at 12 volts.....and enjoy the silence. I was considering buying a new zalman 900 but for 50 bucks, I just don't know. I also have a massive PAL8045 Alpha cooler that I have been eyeing. If I can mount that beast on the GPU it would work. Stay tuned for some pics. The Zalman Northbridge works awesome btw and is highly recommended. If I ever do get a 7900GT I am sure taht it would continue to do a great job even with the additional missing teeth.

Yeah, it ain't hard at all. I keep thinking about the fact that I am going to have to pull out the Zalman NB if I upgrade to a 7900GT to pulll out more teeth. I have no doubt it'll be fine for the cooling but more of a pain. If I was to do it again I would have pulled a few more to allow for future upgrades. However, the 7600 I have has more than enough nuts....I more want to try out the volt mod to get the GTX performance.

Here is a pic of my chopped Passive Zalman which allows my 7600GT to remain in the top slot. Also, here is a pic of my Ghetto mod to my 7600GT, I finally couldnt stand the noise of the stock cooler any longer. Temps with both mods remain about the same as stock, the Zalman actually dropped further after I installed the Ghetto 7600GT cooler as it increased the air flow over the Zalman, but the noise of my two loudest components is gone. Am going to try to run the Ghetto mod at 7 volts and see what happens.

No problems with mine. It is a great unit and highly recommended. I bought it on the basis of AG words saying that there is not a problem with the A2. If people are still having problems, they should look elsewhere as has been stated a zillion times, these are not plug and play boards. I have been tweaking for three weeks, since I got it and am only now starting to settle down.

Just to let you know I took a serial port from an old P150 installed it on the motherboard header and it work. Have you tried disabling all the other devices that you are not using for some type of conflict. i.e. IRDA etc.

What choice did you make in the poll above? I believe mine is 10-20C low. Motherboard: NF4 Ultra-D Mobo Revision: AD0 Mobo BIOS version: 6/23 CPU: Venice 3200+ Idle Temp: 19-22CC Load Temp: 29-32C Cooling: Air (XP120 + Arctic Cooling 120mm with Spacer / AS5)

I have the same complaint. And I thank you for you post as it is most helpful as this was my first board and I had absolutely no way to calibrate it. My idle/load temp is 21/32. My motherboard temp is 31. I was predicitng that I would have to add ten to the CPU numbers, but by your post it would appear more like 7 degrees. I think there is a problem with our hardware revision board. I would be interested to hear the official word on AD0 rev boards or from other users. Also, I don't think this is a bios issue at all.

I hate to say it by I am having the same problem with my temp sensor. Motherboard temp is 33, with 19 cpu idle and 31 under load.

Sorry if I don't see it but what are you running them at?

I had a similar issue with Mushkin XP4400 ram and the weird thing about it was that it would pass memtest (test 5 and 8) but would not be stable worth a sht. I originally had the Mushkin XP4400 (2x512) in an ASUS A8N-E and it would run but not at 1-T (even at stock settings). Once I replaced the Mushkin and put in some generic sticks, everything is fine. Needless to say, I am really gun shy now on pulling the trigger on my next set of ram as the two boards I have tried seem to be finicky or I just had bad sticks. Currently, I am looking at the following memory: Crucial Ballistix PC3200 1GB 2X512MB DDR400 CL2-2-2-6 184PIN Dual Channel Memory Kit OCZ EL Platinum PC3200 2GB 2X1GB DDR400 CL2-3-2-5 184PIN Pin Dual Channel Memory Kit /W Ramsink OCZ Platinum EB PC4000 2GB 2X1GB DDR500 CL3-3-2-8 184PIN DIMM Dual Channel Memory Kit W/ Ramsink ANy suggest on sure bets? I have looked through the forums and it seems that lots of people run the Mushkin Redlines however, given my last experenience I am a little weighing in favor of OCZ plus the above models are way cheaper. OCZ PC4800 Limited Edition (2x512) for $200 CDN or the 2 gig kits from OCZ

I already had this PSU before I got the DFI. Ironically, I had to swap an ASUS A8N-E 'cause it wouldn't run my memory and then later found out that the memory was the culprit. In any event, I ordered the DFI knowing of the possible problems and took AG word on the fact that he had no problems with the A2 on DFI boards. And everything works as advertised. The only thing that can help you is trial and error. I have already returned a motherboard and ram trying to iron out the bugs in my most recent build. Just make sure that when you buy things that you have some sort of return possibility in the case that things don't play well. That is the lesson that I learned and I am still shopping for memory, so I am fully prepared to have another battle, but at least now I am happy that things are stable otherwise, so I know it will be the memory.

I was worried as well after reading that monster thread that AG referred to, although I can say (knock on wood) that I have not had a single issue with the PSU and am loving it.

I just got my board after I RMA'd an Asus A8N-E that would not run my Mushkin Ram CL1 - Enable. I stayed up late last night putting it together and it booted fine (I was worried about the Seasonic), however, I was struggling with the Windows MCE 2k5 install. It was sluggish and would halt at the very early stages prior to asking for the hit F8 button if you agree to MSFT EUA. In any event, after repeatedly resetting the bios defaults and after I removed the extra two maxtors and unplugged all of the fans from the motherboards, I managed to get it to install. I had the benefit of doing all the reading today and have the Bios setting in hands now from the stickies, so hopefully it will go smoother tonight during the reinstall. My one on point comment with that said is that the conflicting statements about which bios is best for the TCCD is annoying. I do not recall what the initial bios is, but when I do upgrade it would be nice to know which to use for TCCD. 623-3 vs. 704-2BTA