swaaye

I have 2x 1GB DIMMs and 2x512MB DIMMs. I've been running with the 2x1GB setup for years. I figured I'd try for 3GB by adding the 2x 512s, but the board absolutely refuses to see both pairs together. It'll see either the 2x512s or 2x1GBs, but not both pairs at once. It just sees one pair or the other. So, I'll have all of it installed, it POSTs and sees either 2GB or 1GB depending on which slots each pair is in. Strange stuff. It'll even go into Windows fine like that! So, I was wondering if any of the 2 dozen modded BIOSes out there are more flexible with regard to 4 DIMMs. Hard to find descriptions on what each does. I'm running the final official BIOS right now. I'd just grab another pair of these 1GB PC4000s, but they cost a fortune today. Total rip offs, eh.

I am having a similar problem. I have 2x matching OCZ 1GB sticks and another 2 non-matched 512MBs. I can not get all 4 to work together. The board will simply not see all of them. Separately, the pair of OCZ work together fine and the pair of mis-matched 512s work together fine. Put them all together and it only sees 2 GB (OCZ in orange) or 1GB (OCZ in yellow). I've tried 2 different BIOSs and tried extremely lax RAM timings and clocks. Nada. I've never had a board this picky about RAM! It's no big deal. I was just trying to jam all of my extra DDR into it.

That cooler looks very reminiscent of Freezer 7 and Freezer 64. I wonder who really makes it. OCZ has their own version of Scythe's Ninja too.

Believe it or not, my OEM maglev fan is still going strong and is only noisy during POST when the sys is pushing it to 100% for a moment.. A friend of mine has one that has become very annoying though. Our boards are almost the same age. Right now I am using the maglev fan. But, I did have a Thermalright HR-05 SLI on there at one point too. The problem with these is that with some video cards, they won't fit. If you put an 8800 in your board, you aren't going to get it to fit arond that stock cooler. Even more annoying is that the OEM maglev fan will be covered up almost completely by the 8800 unless you put the 8800 in the lower PCIe slot (configed as 8x). The position of the chipset is just not good on these boards. Currently my HR-05 SLI is pulling duty as a Tualatin cooler. Would you believe that its base is identical in size to the Tualatin heatspreader? Heh heh. It is the perfect Tualie cooler if you are using a Slotket adapter!!! (I use a old heatsink clip that just happen to barely fit over it to hold it on)

Interesting... I know I had a gap because, at first, I actually tried to bend the clip a bit to make up for it. It busted and I had to order a replacement from AC's ebay store. That's when the washer idea came to me in a vision! This Scythe Ninja on here now has some serious pressure going down on that CPU IHS so I bet it would work ok for a naked core, btw. I've given up on removing IHSs after killing my old Opty 165 a year ago. I just resurrected this rig a few days ago with a cheapo $55 3800+ X2. Ironically it overclocks better than my old 165 and a friend's. I can do 2.6GHz stock volts with this thing. Of course, Opty 165 started at lower voltage. But even considering that, I never got the 165s stable at 2.7 GHz.

I had to put some washers between the little "nipple" things and the metal clip to make up that gap. I can't see how you'd be making good contact with the A64 Freezer Pro on a naked core otherwise. There was definitely a gap in my case without those 3 washers on each side.

A friend of mine just had to stick with his old 6800 GT and got the ASROCK DualSATA2. Ironically, he went to a 7900 GTO a few months later. Waste of money on that mobo in the end. DualSATA2 is not a very good oc mobo. Very limited voltage support (1.40v max). It's quite picky about RAM too. My friend has some OCZ PC3200 in it that's supposed to be CAS2. But, at CAS 2, I had to run 195 MHz instead of full 200 MHz because it will not pass Memtest. There have been a few BIOS updates that "enhance" compatibility, but that's BS. There's also this pathetic BIOS option called "flexibility mode", or some such, that cripples memory performance in favor of "compatibility". And, the funniest thing I've seen in a while was that the board had a BIOS option for hyperthreading in old BIOS versions. As for the AGP port; you shouldn't be upgrading without using a modern PCIe card these days anyway. If you're a gamer and think a new CPU will be faster even with your GeForce FX 5900, you'd be wrong. You're just shortchanging yourself by upgrading halfway. Those ASrock boards are just cheapos. They are ok, but I wouldn't consider one for myself cuz I like to do heavy overclocking. Even if they had the BIOS options, they don't have quality power delivery circuitry.

Mine blows air right at the back of the case (right at a pair of Arctic Cooling TC3 fans).

I've been overclocked to 2.6 since January now and have been using RMClock as CnQ. Works great. Saves tons of AC. Like 70W diff between full power and 1.1 GHz .95v. I run my comp 24/7 and this way not only do I save tons of AC, but the CPU isn't really overclocked at all the majority of the time. You have to use the VID Special Control instead of the hard voltage adjustment tho or even RMClock can't change VID. I run 113% I believe.

The "Karajan" uses the usual icky Realtek codec that nearly every mobo and laptop has used for like 5 years now. If you look up Tech Report's review of the Ultra D you'll see they ran Audio Rightmark's quality tests and it didn't score very well. http://techreport.com/reviews/2005q1/dfi-l...a/index.x?pg=10 A 8 year old Sound Blaster Live would probably sound better and you'd get real DS3D/EAX acceleration instead of Realtek's software-based stuff. I just stuck with my Audigy 2. The Audigy cards are very cheap on eBay these days. BTW I think even old games can use the digital CD audio playback if you set it that way in the drive's properties under device manager.

Dual cores will see a lot higher PWMIC temps. I can get it up to 75C. But I added a small fan blowing at the sinks and that dropped it almost 10C at load. The PWM ICs are very tough little guys though and can handle over 80C easily. In fact, some are rated up to 120C. Just think of all the boards without even sinks on those things! What's interesting is how most boards don't have temp readouts at all for those hot buggers. By adding a readout DFI sure got themselves a lot more questions!

It's probably a thermal wax. You definitely need more than alcohol to get the remains out of the heatsink's surface. I like "Oops", but plain acetone should work too (and it smells nicer, sorta.) Actually the best stuff for this is Artic Silver's Artic Clean. It smells like oranges and it will take any paste/pad/etc off easily. Expensive though, but lasts a long time. I used Oops for years before AS came out with their stuff, and wow I'm so happy they did. The noxious fumes out of cleaners is just not cool, especially cuz we do this work indoors.

I actually just ordered myself a OCZ GameXStream 600W off of the recommended list cuz I forsee buying some more heavy duty graphics card.

2.6 GHz, 1.49v. Dual priming, 55+C. 1.16 GHz idle, .96v, 26C.

Personally I can't believe people turn off C&Q. I've been using it with my overclocked 165 since january. It cuts your puter's AC power usage in half, and if you run 24/7 that means a lot. Try out RMClock. It gives you a ton of control over the VIDs and FIDs.