petrus66

Back on the topic, I have not got any succes bringing the rig alive. I have tried with the old CPU only. I had a change to test my PSU at my friend and it booted his rig right and straight into XP without problems. We plugged his PSU into my rig without succes. I did a 48h deep CMOS cleaning and still the DRAM power light is not cming up. My theory is that the mobo revision did not support the new opteron. Or the 10+ times of reseting the CMOS has locked up the mobo. Maybe the last bios loaded from Tmod's CD was unsuitable? And yes, I was little "cocky" to poke around without protected. .... For this on, I only do the works with "grounding arm bracelet & grounding measures". The old DFI mobo has locked into no DRAM led posititon, and it seems no CPR into that mobo any more. If I ever will bring a life into that mobo again, it would serve as a platform as a livingroom PC, wireless movie- and a Mp3 jukebox and maybe even as a digital TV-recorder. Sigh.. Gosh, I'm calling for trouble and trolls, trying to make any DVB-pci card working here in Finland. The "Elders" has made it this way...sight.. Really a joke how they tried to implant digital out here. I ordered an Asus 2:nd hand or factory replaced specify with an official Opteron 185 support and waiting for a christmas on this issue I really wished to work this out: I'm not the guy whos droppinng down a case in tha minute or two.. The new board is hopefully arriving at the end of this week and I'm back with my elbowls deep in the computer case again, lol. Thanks for the advices and morale support, folks!

Thanks for the reply folks and I'm sorry for the delay, been busy and now away from my home computer for a week. The Bios revision I'm using is the latest 2006/04/06 (NF4LD406.EXE is the file from the D/L site) You are right about the amount of the sticks, I tried with only 1 stick in the orange slot most up and far from the CPU. No succes thought. Then I rewersed the graphic card back in to the normal position in to the upper Pcie slot, just to be sure. After no luck, I also switched back to the older CPU and now even this set up didnt boot anymore. I put the rig into CMOS clearing for 4 hours, inwhile I went to a computer store to test the CPU itself. The Opteron 185 was fine and working with some other motherboard brand. The next boot session (with old CPU) stuck on with Graphic recognition error And after that I cant boot even with the old CPU as before, no mather Pcie slot or with any SLI jumper settings. Checked the PSU with hot wiring the black and green wires in the 24-pin connector. The PSU Fan started so I assume that PSU is ok. I seemed to be close after one CMOS clearing again: I noticed that DRAM power ligth was not up so I figured that theres is a power drain or short somewhere on the mobo I leaved the PSU power on, one power led up at the down left corner near diag leds. I pushed pwr button on the board and left it so. Something mystical happened after 2 hours: The board came on itself!!! But this time it freezed at CPU regognition again... blah Either there is something with the capasitors, after draining them over and over again while all the CMOS clearings or some short in the board I havent recognized yet. I have to test the PSU in some other rig too. I think thats maybe better to find some second hand mobo that handles better with official Opteron support. Thats was not the thought because it was not intended to invest on this 939 rig futher... While I'm stuck at work I have to wait for a week and I'm taking up the fight again when I coming home.

This mobo should support FX-60 so it should support Opteron 185 too? I installed the new 185 and system always halts before post screen comes up. System bootup freezes with 4 diagnostic leds up and all fans rotating at full speed. No response after 1 minutes waiting, so I have had to shut down from the PSU power switch. 4 leds indicates that mobo/bios dont recognize Opteron 185. Things that I have tried but has not worked: -Checked that CPU cooler fits properly, tried both with stock AMD and Zalman cooler. Nope -Cleared CMOS (PSU pwr off, CMOS-jumper to clr, Battery off, drain capasitors by pressing mobo pwr, waiting 30 mins) Nope -Cleared and updated the BIOS with WinFlash Utility. Nope -Tried with some other Bios revision from Tmods boot CD. No Go -Stripped the system from all power drainers, leaving only graphic card, floppy, KB & mouse and 1 HD plugged. Also I tried to plug the 2 extra power cords from another free power bundle (1 molex & 1 floppy connector on board) -Swapped back to old CPU and back, clearing CMOS every time. The part number of the opty is: OSA185DAA6CD And stepping: LCBBE (0628CPMW) Thoughts: Seasonic should give enought juice. Bios is not compatible with the Opteron "Denmark"- core. Maybe it has something to do with the memory controller. Allthought I have seen in many signatures that many people has LP nF4-D running up with Opteron 165. CPU is maybe bad... The graphic card is plugged into the lower Pcie slot but that cant mess up the CPU recognition. Do you have any suggestions regarding better Bios revision or something I have missed while the struggle... This topic has been cross posted to two other forums: http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2445 http://forums.amd.com/forum/messageview.cf...8&enterthread=y

Thanks for a complete answer, Fogel! I have noticed it is difcrapult to make a choice between the two maintreams of features, as you decribed, quality versus response time. Some things became more crystalliced and I got some new angles to approach while I read your replys. I'm still thrilled about the Eizo FlexScan S1910 thing. Eizo got a good reputation handling colurs, maybe even little overkill for home use, but the wide possabilitys calibrating colours makes it ideal for photo editing. Eizo is known not to leak backlight and ruin the black-contrast. Some features picked up fom: http://www.eizo.com/products/lcd/s1910/index.asp 1280 x 1024 native resolution • 1000:1 contrast ratio • 280 cd/m2 brightness • 178° viewing angles G-G is 8ms , and 16ms for W-B-W I think The only thing I could still wish that this panel would also be shipped in silver colour, but hey... Price is 500€ in Finland, as for purchasing it little cheaper from Germany can put me in tricky situation if I'm facing a RMA situation. Acer AL1914ms on the otherhand would meet more budget line, that you pointed out. Not overprice on that model, not the best panel out there but afordable: Angle 140°/140°, 500:1, 1280x1024, 16ms Samsung SyncMaster 193P+, is an interesting Panel. One review here: http://www.custompc.co.uk/custompc/reviews...aster-193p.html One lack is that the MagicTune adjusment program only works in Windows. A draw as I more and more try to adapt myself to Linux. G-G is 8ms and I think I can live with that. ViewSonic VP930 seems nice too I have become to put more weight into guality as what is the point in the most fastest response times if the picture quality fails producing true black and trueful colours? I think that 8ms responce on grey or 16ms W-B-W could be enought even for gaming, as long my "CRT-eyes" gets used to it as time goes by.

Ninetyyn inches is just fine, I only cry for the best, so I really did not get an answer on your reply, as for you have to trust me, whenever I want to stay at 19 inch Best Regards Petri

Hi, I'm looking for a CRT killer. That will say good colours, response and overal quality. -Key features are 1000:1 ratio, -Fast response time for gaming -Black IS black and no burned white anyway -I'm ready to pay about 600 euro for quality Some good references are Eizo S1910K and, SyncMaster 193P+, These are mostly equal as what ya know, Eizo uses Samsung as it seems. I got 5¨-600 in my pocket and want only the best... Any suggestions?

On my experience, using diffirent bios revision than official factory bios would help. I used the bios mentioned down there in my sig and 3 G Ram in 4 slots run fine. I tested the newest official Dfi bios just too see what fixes may have been implemented since last time. With the official fresh bios, my memorys are down graded to run at 333. There are some engineered bios files that are tweaked for better memory performance, stability and combatility. Check them out, they are safe as original as long you shoose the right revision to match your motherboard.

Problems came just after changing your prosessor cooling? It seems the temperatures are mayby raising at startup and the overheat protection is shutting your system down? I suggest you carefully check out that your installation of the waterblock is done in a proper way. Unmount the waterblock and clean gently the surface of the waterblock with some electronic cleaning agent (Isopropyl alcohol) to remove remains of the thermal paste. Check that nothing is sticked to the surface, often a plastic sticker is protecting the surface from getting scratced. If so, remove it. Gently clean the surfacy of the CPU too from remaining old thermal paste. Use SOFT paper cleaners or similar with the cleaning alcohol. Be sure that no colour or rests of fibre are getting to the surfases. Time to apply some thermal paste again, here's one solution to do it: http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm Check and re-check that the watersink is straight to its right position and alligned as is should. Google for some installation hints and close-up pictures from product homepage and other reviews. Check also that the vaterpump is running and theres nothing that could block the circulation of the cooling liquid.

It is now proved that this card will not work in the lower pcie4 slot. This card dont got any additional power connection and fails to get enough power from pcie slot only. After changing Sapphire to equal card, Connect3D with a SLI power connector, I managed to use the lower slot. This is not an issue with Sapphire GTO², it has SLI power connector too. Sapphire GTO's with 480 core and 1.6ns Samsumg memory are still very good cards, even they dont mod from 12 to 16 pipes and you are stucked with the upper pcie slot. Bad news for folks that want to change NB chipset cooler from original. The original is still quite silent under 2000 RPM...

That is true, Hec 300W is too small PSU for that rig. Even my recent 400W Zalman that gave 15A in 12V rail barely managed (and didnt) give stable juice to lines.. With 300W PSU and older vga card maybe... But Lanparty is quite power hungry mobo because it has been given potential to overclock with a wide capabilities of diffirent overvolting . Under volted or Amped PSU is not the reason in my case with 600W Seasonic.. After I eliminated one possibility, the PSU, the main problem still remains: Pcie4 refuses X800GTO... So new PSU should most likely help in your case, Muse. Be encouraged to upgrade your PSU !! I have still to figure out something else in my case. But I got a different model of mobo than you Muse... Good luck

np thanks.. yeap those are easy to memorize But the beep codes still remains..

Yeap, same problem here.. It seems that no-one really knows how to work that problem out. I changed my PSU for a better one with no succes. Briefly: -Sapphire x800GTO works normaly at upper pcie1 slot at 16x (jumpers at default) -It dont boot at upper pcie1 when jumpers are in SLI and the upper slot is at 8x. -It never boots at lower pcie4 slot at ANY circumstances. (continious beep-beep post error) -Other card, X600 worked just fine and single on lower slot at SLI (8x + 8x jumpers) -Tried to flash the card with other Sapphire (X850) bios'es with no succes. -Tried couple of diffirent motherboard bios -> no succes In double vga card mode with X600 AND X800: 1. SLI 8x + 8x jumpers positions Post boot screen says "nForce STANDARD" X600 in pcie1 -> vga signal X800 in pcie4 -> no vga signal XP crashes while initializing X800, reboots after splashing a blue error screen. 2. Default 16x + 2x jumpers Post boot screen says "nForce SLI" X800 in pcie4 -> error beep code, post boot hangup X800 in pcie1 -> vga signal X600 in pcie4 -> vga signal in XP, after asigned secondary display in ATI Control Panel Havent done a complete table of diffirent behaviour in diffirent configurations, but these examples gives a clue how much time I have spent to resolve this annoyance. I have tried the most bios settings too, thought I cant be sure if I have done settings in proper order. There can still be a "JackPot" setting I havent found yet.. X800 should be aligned on the slot properly, same occured when I tested the mobo laying on the table. I have applied the SLI bridge mod on nF4 chipset also, doesnt help so I'm going to reverce that.. a. Either does the X800GTO refuse to work at lower than 16x speeds for some reason or: b. No additional power connection on Sapphire GTO card. Maybe the lower pcie4 dont supply enough juice c. Some conflict between SLI configuration addressing and GTO. Meaning that GTO needs to be a master card and mobo want a slave card mode at lower pcie4 ??? d. Lanparty nF4-D is a budget mobo, there are some missing components compared with other models e. Bios issue, either it is a "feature" (how nice way to put it.. ) of the nF4 or the GTO bios. After googleing I get a feeling that some has managed to use pcie4 on true SLI boards and with diffirent vga cards from X800 series... It's quite obvious that people who are aiming for reasonable performance at reasonable price will indeed choose to get a GTO and Lanparty nF4-d mobo. "Leaving the crappy and original NB cooler is not an option. I want to plug the Coolermaster CM Blue Ice.." Are these the final words is still to be seen..

I Haven't found a decent tutorial on diffirent post beeps or diagnostic leds yet. I have enabled the mobo's buzzer, but the information it gives at hungups isn't so informative if the codes are as mythical as alchemy to me I would appreciate some kind of guide here...

I have same problem with my Sapphire X800 GTO card. Weird is that X600 card is working on that same lower slot. I only get continous error beeps with x800 attached on pcie4 slot. The card is properly on the slot allright, did my experiments with motherboard lying on the table. The bios version is interesting me. Where can I still find the 618 version?

It is that Zalman 400W. 400W should be enought running a single craphic card. The ATX power connector is 20 pins, when motherboard has 24 pins. That should not be an issue either. When I try x800 on the lower pcie slot, the system boots but in last state it hangs giving forever lasting beep-beep errors. I still suspect that lower slot dont supply enought current, but that would quite strange if true. In that case I should try to rise volt output on that slot but how is that done?