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ezwriter

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  1. I didn't know what it was, and yes, it was already in Auto. Thanks, Capt Proton for the procedure. CnQ is now working properly. Temps are still higher than I'd like to see, but the CnQ is doing what it's supposed to and at least makes it a little quieter if not much cooler when not under load.
  2. Captain Proton, in your response you said "Make sure your CPU multi is on auto." What is CPU multi? Torch, my experience is the same as yours, sigh, but I don't want to go to H2O cooling. Archidendron, congratulations on working through your problem I'll revisit my case cooling, but since I can take the case side panel off, blow air directly on the MOBO with a 10-inch room fan and still have the temperatures kinda high, I'm not sure that's gonna get it in my situation. I'd still like to know if anyone knows of anyone who RMA'd a Newcastle for high temperature readings and received a replacement that ran (or reported to run) cooler. Thanks to all.
  3. Thanks for the responses. The Spin: Although a screw-up is always a possibility, I very carefully followed the HSF and Arcticsilver Ceramique instructions for mounting the new HSF. When I built the computer I verified that the two 120mm fans were rotating correctly (drawing air in from the front and out through the back), but due to your suggestion, I re-verified by holding a tissue in front of each fan. FWIW, with the old (stock) HSF, even with the case side door open and a small room fan blowing directly on the innards, the CPU temp would still be in the mid-40's at idle and go into the 60's under full load. Doesn't seem right. The new HSF is better, but not dramatically so. Captain Proton: Thanks for the CnQ procedure verification. My understanding from reading many posts is that, while not a hard and fast rule, the Newcastle core seems to either run hotter or report hotter than the Clawhammer. It really acts as though the heatspreader on the CPU is not properly conducting the heat from the CPU core. I wonder if anyone ever RMA'd a Newcastle chip for this problem and received a replacement that behaved better?
  4. Yes, it's a desktop system. The whole thing seems to run at a high temperature which is the original problem I was trying to resolve. At ambient temp of 24C it idles at ~47C and runs over 60C under load. The new HSF made little difference. I know from reading that Newcastle cores seem to run/report hot. Perhaps I just just ignore it, but I thought maybe running Q&C might help.
  5. I don't want to beat a dead horse, but I've read a whole bunch of posts on this subject including the one by Angry Games from Dec. 2004, and either can't find (or don't understand) the answer. I attempted to install Cool & Quiet ~10 months ago with disasterous results (continuous crashes and reboots) that scared the pookie out of me. With the new BIOS, I'm wanting to give it another try. I am NOT overclocking and have no plan to. I am running Win 2K Pro. Questions I have are: 1. How can I determine what CPU driver I am currently running? 2. Is the correct driver now for CNQ in Win2K the one labeled "CPUCooler" from the DFI download site, Version 1.0.7.1 from the DFI site, or Version 1.0.8.1 (August, 2005) from the AMD downloads site? 3. Once I have the right driver, do I need to set the Power On Properties in Control Panel to "Minimal Power Management" as was previously advised? 4. After the above do I simply enable CNQ in the BIOS and I'm good-to-go? I just want to avoid a repeat of the crash I had earlier trying to do this. Thanks.
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