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b1lk1

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  1. No help for me and it is actually making restarts a pain in the butt for me. Now I need to power down because it won't post if I do a soft reboot.
  2. RMA it and get a different board. This is the worst motherboard with the least amount of factory support I have ever had the displeasure to run.
  3. Believe me guys, I am not defending this piece of crap DFI calls a motherboard. And I should have made it clear I think ASUS service and support is terrible, not their boards. If I could RMA this piece of junk and get another board, believe you me, I already would have. Too bad that DFI only seems to care about C2D boards and completely stuck it up our asses with the 590 boards and their complete and utter lack of support or caring. The only bios that works even alittle is the one that ships with it. All the beta's are garbage.
  4. You bought an ASUS board hoping they would do better? Their bios revisions are just as bad if not worse. The real problem is that noone is using these boards and we're getting the end result: the manufacturers just don't give a crap about boards that are not selling. Good luck with ASUS, they are even worse in updating stuff.....
  5. At stock clocks those scores are right on the money. Even a slight overclock will pick up the score quickly.
  6. OK, I have the ASUS board. Love it but I am HTT limited to 328 with my 165 Opteron. This CPU had no issues with 350+ HTT on my DFI SLI-D. How are these boards doing with high HTT speeds? I don't mind being tortured with new settings, I just want to know if it will post/run over 328 HTT.
  7. I have a super 165 that will run 2.75GHz @ 1.3V all day long prime stable 24hrs+ and it is on water. All that being said, I haven't seen 3.0Ghz 100% stable yet and I run water. There are too many factors and your quest is extremely difficult at the least. Like the rest, I don't consider it stable without at least 12+ Hrs of prime. Period.
  8. You need to figure out exactly what the issue is. If this is not working right, what else is going to fail? I would RMA that board before I changed the ram. SOunds like something is defective and is gonna take more stuff with it when it dies.
  9. I strongly suggest you get ahold of AMD and get some support. It sure sounds like a dead core to me, but I am no expert. They should be able to diagnose it and if it is bad, get your RMA going.
  10. Unless you do CAD work or heavy heavy video encoing, you will hardly use the full 2GB, never mind 4GB. If I were you, I'd just go with 2GB of ram. That is morethan enough for any game out and well more than enough for a desktop. Besides, if the ram you have now is doing what you want it to do, keep it. OCZ is great ram so if you do decide to get it you would be happy.
  11. 1GB sticks never overclock as well as 512 or 256MB sticks. Run with the looser timings to try going higer. Besides, for gaming, 2GB of ram @ CAS3 is better than 1 GB of ram @ CAS2, hands down.
  12. Are you actively cooling your ram? I have PC3200 VX that I run @ 255MHz @ 3.48V @ 2-2-2-8-T1. This is my normal 24/7 settings. It has run this way in my SLI-D as long as I can remeber. I keep a 120MM fan blowing over them at all times. Also, try the 704-2BT bios, worked wonders for my rig.
  13. I have a 3700+ San Diego and I love it. I got it when dual cores were just a twinkle in our eyes. It overclocks extremely well and it awesome for gaming. For the money, it is THE best single core CPU you can get. That being said, go with a X2. I am planning on upgrading to a 4400+ myself this summer and I wouldn't think twice of it. I do love my Sandy, but dual cores are definitely future proof. Do yourself a favor and don't say "I wish I spent the extra money" 6 months from now.
  14. Stay as far away from no name brand PSU's. Look for at least an Antec unit or better yet an Enermax or OCZ. You will get let down by a no name unit like you liked to. You shound never try to save money by buying a cheap PSU. Forget about the wattage and look at the 12v+ rail. Also, getting a PSU with dual 12v+ rails is much more futureproof. Look for an OCZ Modstream 520W if you are not going to run SLI. Seasonic also makes an excellent 600W PSU for SLI systems that is reasonable.
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