Tivot

Eh, computer posts fine, can hear the beeps. I know this sounds really rudimentary and forgive me if I missed it... but you did try another monitor, right? Or, you tried another computer on that monitor?

You can get a rheostat fan controller for just the one fan, you can find them fairly cheap... or go for a full-on fan controller. There are many varieties... some flashy, some plain, some with temperature guages. I have the hardcano 13 and like it... its bling bling overkill. But, its nice just to turn a knob and slow your fan down, and see the RPMs.

Here is a screenshot of my settings: I noticed a few differences. I am using RAM slots 3&4. I guess those are the Orange slots. Your SPD tab has different information than mine. Your timings table looks higher than what I've got. Its showing up as PC3200 (200 MHZ). That just doesn't look right to me... its supposed to be PC4000 RAM, eh? All Voltages, etc look the same as the ones in this post and your OC database. I checked twice. I guess I need to go step by step and find out where the holdup is... but at this moment I am suspecting RAM?

Hey Angry, I'm just getting the Overclock going on this system. I'm looking ok at 250X10. When I do 250X11 I get a flash of blue screen on windows and then a reboot. I could probably be happy with 250X10. CPU is 43/44 C according to MBM5. I do have a question though. In your OC database entry here: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...47&postcount=39 In the screencaptures you have ByPass Max at 07 X, but in the text below it you have it at 04 X. I read the description of this setting here: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20823 The description says the setting does little. I'm at 07X now. I will try lowering to 04X after this finishes with Prime95.

You definitely seem to be having driver issues. HOWEVER, just to be safe, I really recommend doing memtest86. Download it free. Test each stick separately... don't just let it do one loop... really test it... at least like 4 hours per stick. If you have some kind of flakey RAM problem, you might be getting corrupted installs or something. I'm not saying its ram for sure... because it really smells like a driver problem.... but sometimes these things manifest themselves in strange ways.

Great, that was easy. Thanks a lot, I really appreciate your time.

Great, I will do it. Is it recommended to change this voltage while the system is running? Or should I make the adjustment, turn on the computer, take a reading, shutdown, adjust as neccessary, etc?

I tested my rails as per this thread: http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/show...ad.php?t=137886 I have a PowerStream 520 as in my signature. I measured the rails with a Fluke multimeter. Here are my results: ------------------3.3v--------5v--------12v Post-----------3.295------5.09-------12.22 Boot-----------3.293------5.09-------12.22 Startup-------3.294------5.09-------12.22 Idle------------3.294-----5.09--------12.22 Load----------3.289------5.08-------12.21 Shutdown---3.293------5.09--------12.21 My question is, are these good results? Since the powerstream has adjustable rails should I adjust them to get results that are closer to what they should be? Ie, should I up the 3.3 a tad, down the 5 a tad, and down the 12 a little bit? Or, are these good results and I should leave well enough alone?

What do you guys think? WD has said they would come out with new Raptors by end of 05. I'm noticing sales and rebates for almost all online vendors. Newegg has a sale, Outpost and Fry's are offering a discount, and on top of that there is a $20 rebate stackable with a $30 rebate. I went down and picked one up, OEM for $150. I suspect they are cleaning out their inventory for new models to arrive soon. I couldn't find any press on WD website or through a cursory search. Anyone have any info? I can only guess that it would be a SATA II version with NCQ instead of TCQ. Anyone have any info?

Ok, I was not satisfied with the noise. So I changed out the fan to one that does not have an integrated thermistor. [Got this from an old Athlon XP cooler] I was concerned about taking the shroud completely off. I did some measuring, and came up with an idea to make an effort to replace some of the shroud. I took the blister pack from my RAM and made a custom shroud. The desired product is in the lower right. I made the screw holes by poking with a large safety pin, then I used a pointed woodscrew to ream the holes a little larger. I pre-screwed the screws into the shroud to make it easier to assemble. Here is a shot of the testing with the fan controller. Here you can see the clearance, it is in close proximity to the audio card, but it seems to be ok. Testing and results. Ok, stock fan, heatsink, no fan controller. Idle 54 / load 74 Fan at max speed, no custom shroud, no fan controller (This is really loud. WHIRRR) Idle 47 / load 54 Fan at max speed, with custom shroud, no fan controller Idle 47 / load 54 Fan with custom shroud at low speed on the fan controller (~3000 RPM - very quiet/inaudible) Idle 54 / load 62 Fan turned off with custom shroud in place (this simulates fan or fan controller failure and relies on stock fan with custom shroud only) Idle 59 / load 76 Conclusions: 1) The stock cooling solution lets this thing run pretty warm ~75 degrees with load. 2) With the little fan I added running at max speed ~5000 RPM or more, it is loud. The custom shroud has no effect at all under these conditions. 3) Using a fan controller to drop the fan speed to ~3000 RPM made it much more pleasant to be around (inaudible). The temperatures are still ~10 degrees lower than stock. Because of this, I consider the mod a success. 4) I was concerned what would happen in the event my add-on fan failed, or my fan controller failed. (More likely the fan becoming unplugged while mucking around in the case). With the add-on fan powerless, and the custom shroud in place I achieved acceptible results. I can feel fairly safe that if I experience an undetected failure with my customized fan, the stock fan will sufficiently cool the card, even under load. This makes me feel more comfortable with the mod.

I have a feeling the Raptors are about to go through a change. I've heard some bits before about them revamping them near the end of 2005. Look at newegg, they have a rebate. Look at outpost.com and fryes. They have a labor day weekend sale, AND they have two rebates. $20 and $30 stacked. I think they're trying to dump their stock. I would guess that there will be a SATA II variety of the raptor shipping sometime in the not-so-distant future.

There is a great tweakguide for BF2 that will help you work out your problem. I'll tell you though, I played on an Athlon 2200, 1mb corsair ram (tight timings), a GF5700 Ultra (the lowest compatible card with the game), and it ran really well. Albeit, all of the graphics settings were set to low... but if you've never seen it at high, you're less likely to feel like you're missing out. Anyway, I experienced no stuttering, no problems, it was always smooth, and I always had competitive scores. I'm still working out the bugs in the system in my sig... and I now notice a little frame lag once in a great while.... but I never had that with my old rig. So, with that, I would go through the tweak guides and see if you can isolate your problem. Deleting your shader cache seems to be the first favorite step. See you on the battlefield Sack O'Hammers

You can read here: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22178 Why I moved my video card down to the second slot, and the results I achieved by doing so. Summary (lowered chipset and cpu temps, created more space for HD) I wanted to cool my BFG card. I noticed at stock it was running at 54C idle and 74C load. This seemed really high to me and MBM5 was throwing alarms with its default alarm settings. After doing some quick research I noticed people achieved mix results(good and bad) with the Zalman 7000 CuAl. Plus, since I relocated my card to the bottom, I do not have clearance for the Zalman without losing my Audigy 2. I took the 70mm muffin fan off of the stock AMD heatsink. I screwed this fan into the heatsink on my BFG 7800 GTX. See attached pictures. First Picture: My slot configuration Second Picture: My video card quick fan mod Now it is running at 46C idle and 54C load. Problem: This fan has a thermistor on it, and it thinks it needs to operate in temperatures corresponding to an Athlon64. As a result, it thinks its too hot and runs at full RPM all of the time. WHIRRRRRRRRRRRR It is loud! I need to A) disable the thermistor and control the fan with my Hardcano fan controller or B) find another suitable fan that does not have a temperature regulating thermistor. Anything bigger than 70mm is too big. Some have tried with the 80mm, but the hub is just too big... creates a hot spot in the middle. Hope this helps ppl get some ideas, because I've seen a lot of people ask the questions.

Yarr, thats going to be awesome Angy. I was asking you about cooling. This is what I ended up doing last night. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...6074#post216074

It was late, this is what I cooked up in a hurry. Its not elegant, but damn sure does the trick. I also find that sometimes my CPU fan doesn't have to spin as fast either... this dropped the CPU a degree or so. The RAM chips are cool / ambient... no longer the hottest thing in my case. I used a regular Fan screw (coarse thread). I did not have much luck with the offset screwdriver you see next to the fan. I had the best luck with the pliers to screw the fan.