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tpenguin

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  1. What are the 4 servers for? Nice cooling setup on them, by the way .
  2. I've never heard of that before. Did they use 100% washer fluid or a mixture of it and water, and is it safe to use additives like UV die to it? I don't get Maximum PC mag, so I don't suppose you or somebody else could scan and email me the article @ [email protected]? I suppose I could just go out and buy a copy, though (assuming it's may of this year ). Also, are you sure it's safe to use long-term in a multi-metal environment? It certainly is an interesting idea, and I think it might be worth a try as long as I can be sure it won't hurt my hardware.
  3. I might be changing the plans for my cooling system from refridgerated liquid to using TEC's on the CPU and GPU (ok, so I'm going to cheat and buy Swiftech's prebuilt TEC waterblocks ). For this, though, I would obviously need a very good radiator system since I want my water to be as close to ambient as possible. The two ideas I have so far are either a Black Ice Extreme 2 (maybe with 4 fans in push-pull setup) or 2 or 3 D-tek procores. The procores would take up a lot more space, so I'd rather either go with the BIX2 or perhaps some radiator I haven't found yet that takes 3 120mm fans. Since I'll be needing either a very large radiator or multiple radiators, do you think I'll need to go with a more powerful pump like the eheim 1260 (600gph), or will ~350gph still be adequate? I'd appreciate any input.
  4. To me that sounds almost to hight just to be the fault of the stock hsf. I've never heard of a non OC P4 being so hight. If you haven't done it already, remove the hsf and reseat it to make sure there is adequate contact. If that doesn't work, get a Swiftech MCX-462+ heatsink, slap a 92mm Delta fan on it and attach it with Arctic silver ceramique. If you're still running hot after that, something's wrong. Perhaps just adding a few 120mm Delta case fans would do the trick, but your neighbors might call to complain about the noise (even if they live a mile away ).
  5. Ok, thanks. I'll do that then. Do you know what company makes the compunurse monitors and do they have a website? I'd like to get some more detailed information to be sure the compunurse advanced will suit my needs. Are there any 5.25" bay dual temp monitors with features similar to the digidoc that measure subzero?
  6. Nobody else asked, so I guess I will. You did use Arctic Silver 3 (and properly followed the instructions on their website) when you installed your HSF, I hope. Even If you did, the new non-conductive grease AS makes called ceramique has been shown to provide a temp drop of at least 3*C in comparison with AS3. Also, if the base of your HS is not perfectly smoothe, you may want to check the guide to lapping a heatsink on the main page here. It's quite easy. You just need a couple of hours and a little patience.
  7. Lol. LAN season...sounds like something you'd need a rifle for . I'm a bit too poor for a matrix orbital myself (or at least I can't justify the extra cost when I only want to monitor temps). The problem with the Digidoc is that it only goes down to 0 C, and my cold water line may be slightly below that. That's why I like the compunurse advanced...Dual temp display and goes down to -40 (or so it says). I suppose I could alwas just take a compunurse probe, cut a tiny slit in a tube with an X-acto knife, slip it in, seal it with a little silicone, and wrap it up nice and tight with a lot of plumber's tape. To me, that sort of sounds like the better way to go...no extra fittings or clamps which would be more of a pain to insulate. Before I order one, if somebody hase a compunurse advanced, could they stick a temp probe in the freezer and see if it measures under 0 C (or maybe just look in the manual )? Thanks.
  8. I haven't ever heard of that one. Can you post a link for it please?
  9. Thanks for the link for the in-line temp probe and flow meter. What Type of readouts is it compatible with? I was planning on using a two-temp compunurse advance to measure the temp of the intake and return water. It uses -40 to 90 deg. C termistors, but I have no idea of the resistance. I could easily do a splice job with the probes, but I don't know if the measurement would be correct. Do you know if this probe was designed with a specific monitor in mind? It doesn't mention one, and the Compunurse is the only one I found capable of going subzero C. Anyway, thanks for the link. The rest of your post was very helpful also. Another question...Any thoughts (good or bad) about the D-tek TC-4 block ( http://www.dtekcustoms.com/product.asp?0=2...=204&1=209&3=21 )? I would think the "corkscrews" in it would do a good job of creating turbulance, but would it excessivly hamper water flow? I would of course prefer to have the cold water come in directly over the CPU myself, but it may perform well regardless. I haven't seen any reviews of it. Also, I believe I asked this before, but I can't remember (isn't that pathetic?)...will the pump function properly with the really cold water? I also need ideas about the best water additive. D-tek says their supercool liquid works really well, but I need just as much freeze prevention as I need thermal transfer. Will supercool do an adequate job of that? I'm sorry for the never-ending questions, but if there's a how-to guide on doing exactly this, I certainly haven't found it yet. Looks like I'll be doing some experimentation .
  10. So your saying that the diameter of the tubing in innovatek systems doesn't affect cooling performance? (this is not an argument...merely a question). I was mainly thinking of goign this route because more parts (exept of course the ones I started this thread about ) are compatible with 1/2" tubing. Would it make a difference that I will have more than average tubing length? I personally agree with you about innovatek's water block design. It is excellent, but I will have a potentially serious problem with it. Since I will be cooling the water substantially with a phase-change (i.e. ripped up refridgerator hehehe) system, I belive the mounting sytem of innovatek's block would prevent me from adequately protecting against condensation. Please correct me if there is a work-around for this, but keep in mind, I'm not exactly a machine-tool expert. Also, what do you think of the swiftech MCW-5000-A block? From a sealing/insulation standpoint, it would be much easier to work with, and it has many diamond-shaped pins to increase the copper-water contact. I couldn't care less what a water block looks like since mine would be invisible under many layers of neoprene, so any old hideous water block that performs well will do nicely as long as it's easy to insulate. I have just one more question. How well does silicone tubing insulate the water inside from the outside air? Could you pass water through it with a temperature of, for example, between -5 and 0 degrees C without it forming condensation on the outside? *edit* D'oh! I'm so stupid that I hit tab and enter instead of space. lol. My reason for asking this is that I'd sort of like to see the water flowing through my system rather than just tubes wrapped in foam rubber. That wouldn't make for much of a light show with UV die, now would it? Maybe somebody with some extra silicone tubing on hand could do a little experiment for me a cut and put some water with antifreeze into a deep-freeze freezer for a few hours and then fill the tubing with it and see if condensation forms at room temperature? Or perhaps even rather than insulating with rubber, I could put a smaller diameter tube inside a larger diameter one? Anyway, I'd appreciate any advice.
  11. What about the differences between the 2700+ t-bred and the 3000+ barton? Other than the extra 256K of L2 cache on the Barton core, what's different. I've compared the two chips and unless I misread, they are both .13 micron, both 333 MHz fsb, same clock speed, etc. I'm sure they have different vcores, but which overclocks better? Which is hotter? Is one more forgiving of big vcore increases? Sorry. I just don't know where to find the answers to these questions or I'd look it up.
  12. Yeah. That was the only way I could think of making a temp probe. I was just conserned that the presure might be too great for the silicone. I've been using mbm myself for a long time. I just liked the flow control connected to fan header idea because it would be a more immediate indicator to mbm or another program that the computer needs to be shut down.
  13. I'm going to be building a water cooling system based on 1/2" inner diameter tubing, and I have run into a couple of problems in the parts department. I cannot locate anywhere temp probes to measure the water temp in the lines (I have found one, but it's too small) or an electronic flow meter like the one from innovatek. I would very much like to include these in my system. The flow meter, obviously, is a very useful because the computer can shut down immediately if the pump dies or is somehow clogged. Unfortunately, the Innovatek model is much to small and would be a major bottleneck in my system which will probably be based on the eheim 1260 pump. I want the temp probes because I will be chilling the water it enters the system, and I'd like to know just how chilled it's getting. They would need to be accurate to many degrees below 0 C. If any of you DYI'ers out there have had to make things like this yourself because of lack of availability, could you give me a "component building for dummies" style instruction for making these parts? The temp probes are easy enough to make with a t-fitting, but I wouldn't know how to seal it because I don't know how high the pressure of the water will be. I hope you are all pretty patient, as I am very new to this sort of thing, but I'm a quick learner. Thanks.
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