SixFootDuo

When I plug the older 2 disc HD raid-0 back in, turn the raid on, it of course boots up but, the new raptor 150 sata doesn't. The 3113 raid chip or whatever that is that comes up DOES see it but I get a little bit of a warning, it doesn't do anything, then a short pause then .. The older raid setup reports itself as healthy and goes on to boot. So yes, you can see the new drive during the boot process but not in windows. I really need help cause I have a ton of school work and doc files I need. Kristina

Have a DFI expert board bought a new harddrive, as soon as it came in the mail from newegg, I took it out of the box, set it aside then, disabled my older 2 disc HD raid-0 setup. So I take the new raptor 150 sata drive and install it, installed a fresh new legit copy of windows on it, everything is great. So, i go back to my older 2 disc raid-0 setup and hook up the sata cables, and ... I cannot get the single drive to load up any longer but the older 2 disc HD raid-0 will as long as I turn raid on. I cannot get both to work at the same time. Advice please?

You are kidding right ? :confused: Have you even seen the yellow stock backplate and the big typhoon and the screws in question that ship with the Big Typhoon? NO ... you are all wrong. :mad: No contact is made PERIOD. The screws rest on top of the nuts that are seated inside the stock backplate. I should also point out that it is by this method these screws stay straight. This is achived buy the inside lip of the screws head making flat contact with the nut that is seated inside the factory backplate. These screws go straight up through the board via the backplate and through the H-plate. Both exposed screws are extremely level, straight and nearly centered. All that is needed at this point are the nuts to be tightened down. You do these forums and these people here seeking help and the people, like me that try and help this people a GREAT DISSERVICE. Please don't do that. I understand you want to chime in, be heard, belong, be a part of, etc etc but this is not a debate about the best OC settings or best memory, or fan, etc. This is real life . that could effect / damage someones system costing them a ton of real life cash. Do you think I just causally and recklessly posted a "how-to" guide? No, I have the same board, the same heatsink and spent 2 hours on the carpet in the living room floor doing this. Please do try and get some real life facts BEFORE you do something like this again. Trust me, would we all thank you for that effort. PS, the "2nd Method" as they refer to in the fold out assembly guide is just that, the 2nd method. Using their H-Plate on the bottom of the board resulted in screws that did not stand straight period. In fact, there was NO WAY for them to have proper guidence with or without the hardware they provided. Anyone with this board and the Big Tyhpoon could tell you this. The only other factor in all of this that could lead to different end results is some of these kits could have shipped with different, upgraded hardware ( Very doubtful ) but that has been seen before.

Ok, you guys have it all wrong. And yes, the directions and even the hardware ( screws and nuts ) are lacking. Here is what you do: LEAVE THE BACKPLATE IN PLACE. This is Yellow. Remove the top plastic part. Take two of the provide screws and run them UP from the bottom of the backplate. Once you do that, and after you have the CPU in place with a small dab of your AS5, take one of the H-Bars and place within the Heatsink nestled ontop of the copper base between the two little metal guides. Next, gently lower the hearsink with the H-Bar onto the top of the CPU and screws. At this point, you should have 2 screws comming up from the bottom of the board, thru the backplate and up and thru the H-Plate. At this point, you are nearly done. Take two ( 2 ) of the provided small nuts and finger tighten these down on the exposed screws. It is VERY VERY important to have someone help you with this. Trust me. One to hold the board and to help balance this massive heatsink. Also, make sure you have a screw driver and small adjustable opened ended wrench. Once you have your tools and your helper and you have finger tightend the nuts down on the exposed screw, it's time to tighten down the bolts to fasten the Heatsink to the CPU and Board. Use extreme caution because you CAN over tighten the nuts. With your helper helping to hold the board ( we used an upright motherboard box and balanced the board on top of it ) take your screw driver and from the bottom of the board, use it to hold the screw. Then, take your wrench, and tighten the nuts. Use an even amount of turns for both the left and right side. Remember, equal pressure is very important. Another hint is to make sure the H-Plate and Heatsink stay CENTERED on the CPU. Until this is nice and snug, this will slip around somewhat. After you've tighted the nuts down on these screws to where the Heatsink is nice and tight. YOU ARE NOW DONE. Again, it is VERY IMPORTANT to use the same amount of turns on each nut. My friend even counted the exposed treads of the screw to make sure it was even on both sides!!! DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT Use the H-Plate on the bottom of the board. Why? The screws have no way of staying straight and you end up with the screws leaning because of this.

I'm getting 2.7GHz Solid on my 170 on my new Expert board. Would have loved 2.8GHz but I will look into that after we see a new offical bios release for the expert. hopefully soon. Don't panic. I would suggest you play around with the memory dividers, 180 perhaps for 250FSB ... go from there. Im running 270FSB, 4XHTT, 140 Memory Divider, CAS 2.5, and can pass every stress test. Dual Core 2.7GHZ, 1 Meg Cache Per Core, Gotta Love it. Very jealous of the people getting 2.9 and 3.0GHz on their 170's.

I made a mistake and it was from memory but the bios date is whatever shipped from the factory. 11/2/05 I am sure. I will update my sig. Currently, it's runny stable at 2.79GHz, going to change the HTT back to 4x. I also found another guy that was able to get 2.8GHz on 1.43 .. tried to lower mine to this level but it didnt want to boot correctly so back up it went. I really do appreciate the advice and tips. I will keep you guys updated.

Hey guys, Just purchased my 3rd DFI board, this time the Expert model. I also purchased a Thermaletake Big Typhoon Heatsink, modded with a 120mm Panasonic Panaflo, the 2750rpm version and an OEM Opteron 170. This is a Dual Core CPU, 2.0GHz, 1 Meg Cache per core. The idle on this thing is VERY low, 24c - 25c IDLE and LOAD hitting about 36c - 37c. This is the best I've ever seen, I am very impressed. Who needs water cooling with temps like these. So far my most stable overclock is 2.75GHz. I can boot into Windows @ 2.8GHz but lock up inside World of Warcraft, strangly, my mouse still works. I can post with 2.90GHz but I get a blue screen reboot just as Windows is about to load. To achieve 2.75GHz, I did this with the following bios settings: 4x HTT, 275 FSB, 140 divider for Memory, 2.70v for Memory, 1.45 + 1.07+ Voltage, 1.40 Startup V, CAS 3.0 for Memory. The Expert model seems to have a few more memory settings I do not understand. Because I still have the use of my mouse when WoW crashes and the temps are so VERY low even under full load. I am sure it's a memory setting. I feel pretty good about being able to get into Windows and game @ 2.8 - 2.9GHz. Does anyone here have the Expert and can maybe help me out? I would really appreciate it. I've read through some of the settings people have submitted to the forums in the Overclock data base but I do not see any Opteron 170's. I have honestly read through a lot of the FAQ's, guides, etc but I am lost with these new Expert Model Bios Settings. Thanks! Kristina :dog:

Hey Guys, I'm back with a new setup using my 2nd DFI board. I took a gamble on getting rid of my FX-55 @ 2.9GHz and decided to go Dual Core with a AMD X2 4400+ My system is in my sig. So far Ive been able to get my X2 4400+ to 2.65GHz stable. I did this using 4x HTT, 3.0 Cas, 10X Multi, 333 FSB, 2.80v memory and 1.55v CPU. I can boot into 2.7GHz, 2.75GHz and 2.80GHz, but I error out, not because of heat but because of memory issues. I'm using the MASSIVE and extremely impressive Cooler Master Hyper 6+ Heatsink and I am sure it's keeping the CPU nice and cool. So I am pretty sure it's not heat related. My question is, is there anyone out there that could help me with some solid advice, pointers to get to 2.75 - 2.80 Stable ? I would love to get my 4400+ to 2.8GHz. I do not understand the bios memory settings well enough to play around with this myself. The only reason I was able to get to 2.65GHz was I followed someone elses easy directions on what to do since he had the same motherboard and cpu and ironically, memory. Thanks in Advance, Kristina

Hey, I just bought the same PSU you have. How do you like yours ? Unpacking it, I thought I was getting high from all the fumes from, the plastic, paint or whatever the chinese use over there .... Thanks for the offer. I will get them asap.

The purchase of the DFI LP NF4-D ( Non-Ultra ) was at very first a mistake, I found the mistake well before the board shipped but after my initial panic, a short period of reviews around the web, a little trolling around on some of the boards, I decided to keep it. With the DFI LP NF4-D, you have the same nearly board from the high end to the bottom end, with of course the differences being, extra this, extra that. So, no biggie really on the small things I am missing out on. And from what I gather, there is an easy mod to make this an SLI board It would be very easy to sale this board for 95 - 100 dollars over ebay. So time will tell. I have my eye on that Abit Fatal1ty AN8 SLI. Might pull the trigger. Goal really is to get another eVGA 7800 GTX

It's more than just a small measurement. It's more of a goal, the desire to reach a level others haven't or can't achive. Not to sound elitist. 3.0GHz also just sounds so damn sexy. Has a nice ring to it.

Yes, 100% stable. 33,000 or 34000 score in 3dmark2001se 8600+ score in 3dmark2005

Yes, using stock FX heatsink, the one with copper and copper heatpipes, along with generic thermal paste. My temps are about 40c at idle, and 50 - 55 under full load, well within normal temps.

Anyone here who can point me to someones setup or who might have themselves a FX-55 San Diego paired with a DFI LP NF4 Board? I decided to go PCIe so I bought the DFI LP NF4 based on the strength of the many positive reviews out there. So far, I have no real complaints. The board has many options, too many perhaps but I still have faith in that it's my settings that could be keeping me from 3.0GHz and not my hardware. I say this because, my old ASUS A8V Deluxe allowed me to do 3.0GHz no problem whatsoever ( 15 x 200 = 3.0 ) with my current ram, which is Kingston Hyper-X 500 DDR and my AMD FX-55 San Diego Core. I've read and read and searched and searched and I am about to pull my hair out. I've tried many many settings, from memory dividers, to voltage, to going from 1T to 2T. I've taken small HTT steps and whenever I get to 3.0GHz, I get into windows and crash out to a blue screen. I have perfect stability at 2.9GHz. This never happened with me a short time ago with the Asus AGP board, same memory and CPU. I even upgraded to a new Enermax 600Watt Power Supply mid-point and have the same problems as before with the old TT 480, thus ruling the PSU out. I would love some kind, professional help, and or advice, or whatever someone out there might be willing to help me with. Thanks in Advance

Ok, that took a lot of work for you to type out, I very much appreciate you doing this for me, especially on a sat night. Kristina I will have an update soon I hope.