cloudkat

Well, I think I have narrowed down the problem to the voltage sensor on the mobo. I put another PSU on it and was getting the same crazy fluxuations as before. Then using my digital multimeter, I checked all four of the check points and they all showed solid readings. No fluxuations that were out of the normal ranges. So, I agree with you THunDA that the voltage sensors are shot. I guess that I will now try to RMA this board back to DFI. I can't be without my machine for that long though. I will probably go ahead and just get the Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe overnighted to me as a replacement board. Once I get this board back from its RMA I will have had time to play with the Asus board to see which I like better, and will then deside which board to keep and which to sell. Thanks for all of the help guys. All of you are great.

Yes. My next step is to put a test PSU on this thing and fore it up to see what the voltages are doing with it. I figure that if the voltages stabalize with a test PSU, then I know that it is my OCZ Modstream. If I am still getting this wierd fluxuation, then I may have a bad mobo.

BIOS is the 704-2bt BIOS string= 07/06/2007 NF-CK804-6A61FD49C-00 BIOS is set to optimized defaults except for: RAM Mhz - 200 (1/1) CPC - Enabled Tcl - 2.5 Trcd - 3 Tras - 5 Trp - 3 Trc - 12 Tref - 3120 I was using these relaxed timings hoping that it would help my crashing problems. But now that I have found this voltage issue it eases my mind about me just not having a happy mix of MB and RAM. I know that voltages and stuff don't always read perfectly in a windows setting, but I am showing the same fluxuations in not only CPU-Z, MBM5 and Speedfan, I am showing it in the BIOS as well.

My system specs are in my sig. If i look at the voltage in the CPU-Z program or in the BIOS (CPU Core Voltage setting), that one voltage fluxuates every second from as low as 1.3 to as high as 3.3. I timed it: over a 30 second period (the voltage changes every one second), I had 7 times when the voltage spiked over 2.8 and 9 times when it droped below 2.0. The rest of my voltages are rock-solid at: LDT - 1.2 Chipset - 1.5 DRAM - 2.6 Here is a screenshot of a 10 minute run with speedfan tracking the voltage. Remember that Speedfan only refreshes itself every 12 seconds, so you are not getting a complete look at how much the voltage is truley fluxuating. Watching the BIOS or CPU-Z, the voltage can jump from 2.2 to over 3 in on second, then the very next second it will drop to below 1.5. So this screenie only gives you 1/12th of the actual voltage changes. But this should give you at least an idea of what I am talking about. Notice that it goes from a low of 1.4, to a high of 3.1. http://www.imagehosting.us/index.php?actio...w&ident=1189245 Now granted, I admit I'm not the brightest cookie in the batch, but that just doesn't seem like it should fluxuate that much. Am I correct in assuming this, or am I just smoking crack and paranoid ?? If I actually got lucky and guessed right, it would mean that my OCZ PSU is shot and needs to be RMA'd. That being the case, has anyone ever had any dealings with OCZ and their warranty service ?? Are they pretty fast, or do they take forever like Asus and ATI ?? I am almost hoping that there is something wrong with my PSU. I have been having random crashes during gaming or OC'ing that I just could not explain. It would vary from random BSODs, game freezes, to full-blown reboots. And it would happen at both stock and OC'ed settings. If my Vcore voltage is acting up by fluxuating too far out of an acceptable range, it would explain the crashes. (or atleast give me SOMETHING to blame it on) Any ideas??

Please keep us updated on your findings. This is an interesting theory with this RAM.

Just to kind of gather some info all in one place, please poll your STOCK model CPU, then post your best, STABLE overclock speed with that CPU.

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I have an 80Gb WD set up as my system drive. Put it in by itself to get it formated with this new system. I DID NOT install any RAID drivers when I installed all my MB drivers. After all was good with my system harddrive, I set the jumper on the WD drive to "master w/ slave present" and hooked up a 60Gb Samsung drive with the jumpers set to "slave" to be used as my "dump/storage" drive. When I rebooted my machine the "found new hardware" notice pops up and windows apparently loaded the drivers for it, but I never got the "your new hardware is installed and ready for use" notification. After waiting about 5 minutes and still not getting anything, I rebooted my machine and checked "My Computer" and the dump drive isn't showing up. I also went into "administrative tools/computer management/storage/disk management" and it is not showing up there either. I went into the "device manager" and it DOES show up under the "disk drives", and it is saying that it is working properly. I uninstalled the drivers for it anyways through device manager and rebooted. The same thing happened all over again. The only place it shows up is in "device manager". This is the same dump drive that I had on my last system and it worked just fine on it, and I didn't have any RAID drivers installed on my other machine. Is this board just picky?? Do I need to install the RAID controller to make this thing show up?? Any ideas on what I am doing wrong, or what is going on?? BTW...my BIOS is set to "optimized defaults", with the exception of a few minor things, like enableing usb legacy support and disableing PME events, it is pretty much at those optimized defaults.

Thx dude. Just ordered some and also got my RMA # for my Corsair memory.

Hhmmmm???? Now I just don't know what to think. Thanks for the info. I guess I will have to do even more research now before I finally make up my mind. Wait a minute.....should I actually be thanking you for giving me even MORE to do on this machine??? :sad:

HOLY CHRIST!!!! IT WORKED!!!! :nod: ,at least so far. (*sitting back with all fingers crossed*) It is sitting over there formating now. I'm still going to get some different memory for this thing though. I just think that in the long run it would be safer that way. Plus, I may just deside to OC that thing one day. Thanks for the fast reply and all the help dude. Your a life saver.

Which of these two memory sets would be the best for my non-OC'ed system?? OCZ EL Platinum Revision 2 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Dual Channel Kit System Memory Model OCZ4001024ELDCPER2-K http://www2.newegg.com/product/product.asp...N82E16820146890 -or- OCZ Enhanced Latency 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) System Memory Model OCZ4001024ELERDC-K http://www2.newegg.com/product/product.asp...N82E16820146940 -or maybe even this just because it is TCCD- Update pqi TURBO 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Samsung TCCD System Memory Model PQI3200-1024DBU http://www2.newegg.com/product/product.asp...N82E16820141194 I am asking because of the problems I am having in my post, http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10412 , and because I have read enough on these forums to want to get rid of my Corsair memory. But I am still trying to get it to let me load Windows until I get something else.

As a side question here; assuming money is not a factor, what is the majority vote on the best memory to get for my set up? I will not be overclocking, so that isn't a factor in this.

Please see sig for sys specs. When I try to load Win XP Pro w/SP1 or Win XP Pro slipstreamed w/SP2 it will ask me to "hit any key to boot from CD" then it will get to the "setup is inspecting your computer's hardware configuration", then it just freezes up. I have tried using just one stick of memory, and I have also tried it using one and two sticks of Kingston Value Ram DDR400. I am using "optimized defaults" in BIOS and all "auto" settings for the memory timings. I am also using just the orange RAM slots for both single and dual memory tries. But every time I try to lad windows it does the exact same thing. I will be sending the Corsair XMS memory back (if I can) and getting some OCZ memory, but in the meantime I would like to get Windows loaded on my machine. I have even tried removing the dump drive and trying to load XP with just the system drive set to "single". Any clues as to what is going on?? BTW, I took out all but one optical, and it is a Light-on CD-RW with which I have loaded windows with before on another machine. So I know that it is not that the optical drive is not being read.

THX. That is what I wanted to know. I have been reading through alot of forums about this and everyone pretty much says the same thing you did. So, I guess I'll just stick with my Win XP Pro for now. Again, thx for the reply.