nebuchanezzar

IMHO '01 is affected more by our CPU/Ram in comparison to the others..'03 and '05. I can't remember exactly but when I put my 6800nu in my old Infinity in place of one wicked 9500 ATi(R.I.P.) that ran at 9700 with the pipes I gained about 2000 give or take on 01 but over 7000 on 03. Just my opinion on the subject but my best jumps in '01 was from raising my FSB with tight timings. My UT 250Gb gets a little better in the tests running 2.5 whereas my nF2 was running just over 2.6. The reason it's in the toaster test is that some systems can be clocked Prime stable and not 3d or vice versa so to be a true torture it's in the mix

Sound like his PSU was fubarred and feeding jacked up outta wack voltages through his mobos which eventually "deteriorated" teh effectiveness of them gradually. Crappy for sure. but solid...if expensive lessons learned. A tip about P95....small FFTs is for CPU only and no ram Blend does both but hits ram first with the large FFTs Large is pretty much just ram I usually use custom 1024-4096...IMO if the ram testing passes it's all good cuz your CPU is always being used. Many know that passing small for hours means squat cuz your large may fail in minutes...another good Ram test is memtest for windows, yes there is one that runs in windows too

Realistically it will transfer heat but I highly doubt it will be effective...your cooling area is too far from your heating zone. A better idea if you have the tools would be to make a very thin one that will fit..1 piece cut kinda like a maze with channels for the water..you'ld probably need them to be fairly large channels to avoid some serious pressure drop and the whole thing would need to extend far enough out to allow the nozzles to point up or possible horizontal to the board. The next piece is flat copper you braze or screw tightly to the top. You really want the water running over the spot of heat generation. You may also consider not using the chipset in your WC setup at all..just possition a fan in teh general area and get some air movement. Just my 2c

It may not look the coolest but I "hang" a few fans to blow in certain spots..One hangs from the clip for my fan on my XP90 and an IDE cable to blow onmy RAM and another hangs from a SATA cable and the power cable to my 6800 to blow onteh chipset/SB. If you want to look nice buy the Zalman bracket thing and hang it that way....I can't replace it, I mean my 6800 is like 1/8" over it....maybe less edit: By the way a TEC still needs a heatsink of some kind to dissapate the heat side of the plate and it needs active cooling ie. a fan or ideally a waterblock...the waterblock also give subzero possibilities. Plus most have found no benifit from such extreme cooling on a chipset but then again...most of that experiemce is from the nF2 days so maybe this new chip will find it benificial.

This mornign whenI powered the system on it shut down during windows boot and now wont satrt with the ATX pin ineven with my Fortron..looks like the OCZ was just more sensitive at picking up an OVP problem with the mobo.

If either of the blue 4 pins(tried both to see if maybe one had a bad wire) when I hit the power button teh juice comes on for sucha asmall split second none of the fans even make a full rotation and dead..nothing but the stand-by lights are still on and further reset/power button attempts on case or board are useless until the power switch at the rear is killed off. No ATX 4pin and posts just fine. I can then insert the ATX pin and reset or restart just fine....it is only on cold start. all rails check out with my multimiter..all just over rated #s. I'm writing on the rig right now. I plan on totally disassembling it later today...the Fortron does not have this problem in the case and the OCZ works fine in the Infinity. I've tried both the shielded VGA/HDD cable for the 6800 and a regular molex with no difference. Tried teh attached SATA connectors vs. the adaptor for molex that come with the board. 1 stick of memory only. Pulling the power/reset wire and powering with board buttons. My last thought is later today once I get it out of the case and bareboned if the problem persists is to try my ATi 9500. Also tried changing bioses again but no difference...perhaps this computer just never wants to be off

I also put this in the nF3 bug section. I updated my sig for hardware. 4pin attached no boot...fans don't even power up enough to turn around once. Pull plug to try again and if no P4 boots fine, I can then plug the P4 in and it will reset just fine...just no cold start. Had all the other hardware yesterday except PSU and used my old Fortron 530 and no problems...I've powered up the PSU with a umper and it's fine...put the OCZ in bothmy Infinities and it works like a charm..I'm gonna pull everything out and try some trouble shooting but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I plan to leave the OCZ in there even if I have to never turn it all the way off so any option except switch PSUs is open. Thanks a lot guys. I did find a search about a guy with random cold boots being fixed by RMA....I DO NOT want to ship this away unless someone can show me something seriuosly wrong...not just inconvenient. I'm gonna try some bioses and since I have 2 xtra bios chips from my Infinities to see if maybe my bios chip is funny.. Thanks again guys I originally posted this question at bleedinedge as it only appeared with my Powerstream.

I updated my sig for hardware. 4pin attached no boot...fans don't even power up enough to turn around once. Pull plug to try again and if no P4 boots fine, I can then plug the P4 in and it will reset just fine...just no cold start. Had all the other hardware yesterday except PSU and used my old Fortron 530 and no problems...I've powered up the PSU with a umper and it's fine...put the OCZ in bothmy Infinities and it works like a charm..I'm gonna pull everything out and try some trouble shooting but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I plan to leave the OCZ in there even if I have to never turn it all the way off so any option except switch PSUs is open. Thanks a lot guys. I did find a search about a guy with random cold boots being fixed by RMA....I DO NOT want to ship this away unless someone can show me something seriuosly wrong...not just inconvenient. I'm gonna try some bioses and since I have 2 xtra bios chips from my Infinities to see if maybe my bios chip is funny.. Thanks again guys. edit.. now shows same symptoms with Fortron also.

Well I've been gone from the Street for awhile but I'm putting together a 754 rig right now..just waiting on the mobo and PSU. Will be running a 3200DTR but am VERY interested in the Turion. I assumed DFI support for mobile but learned otherwise today(downer) but then I remember the awsome community we got and ran across this thread(upper). I'm totally new to the A64 thing so I'll need a few weeks of frustration to get my feet but then I'm in 100%. By the way Rabbi thanks for the most detailed description of sanding down the XP90s bracket...much better than "just sand it down about half way!!"

Just what they both said is true. So far TwinMos speed premium, OCZ value with a W in the serial #, and OCZ VX are all using winbonds UTTs. The Twinmoss TMII are hit and miss but may have them, some Adata do, and some kingston value do also. Y ou can get a lot more info ot xtreme. look for the value vx thread and xtreme twinmos memory for starters

I'm with the Fortron 530, the hemi of PSUs IMHO. I love my Infinity's but if I was going to go for a new build I would look to 64bit AMDs myself like angry said. Socket 939 may be out of reach but socket 754(?) the nF3 is being phased out(so is socket A though) and you can find people who want to jump to nF4 selling them at pretty reasonable prices. For Ram if your not "hardcore" and don't like the thought of 3.3+ volts through your memory 24/7 then look to TCCD chip based memory. If high voltage is no phase( :shake: ) then possibly look to older BH5 off Ebay or something or try and get lucky with some twinmos speed premium with winbond utt chips. Both options are relatively cheap. I personally like the SLK-900a heatsink for socket A cuz it fits on the tabs on the CPU slot and doesn't need the mounting holes. Can't say for nF3/4 but hear good things about both the xp-90 and xp-120. I'm not the person to ask about cases....I'm all go and no show :nod: and believe a wooden case would work if it had too :shake: ! The fan question is all about how loud you can handle it. Rule of thumb, larger fans push/pull the same air at lower sound volumes but you may need to cut your case to fit anything over an 80mm. Hope this helps and good luck!

I run at 240 only because I get tighter timings and that actually gives it a tiny edge. I can get 250 but I need 11-3-3-3-2.5 whereas 240 is 11-2-2-2-2.0. In the end like everything else in life you have to make the call as it's your rig. I will say that IMHO you need to consider that every Mhz on an Athlon is "larger" per se than on a Pentium which is why AMD made the whole P-Rating thing. When I bench 2.8Ghz I've seen proggies call that a P-Rating all the way up to 4.4 Pentium. I don't know if it's really that high but thats prety fast either way. Just a thought.

It may not look pretty but you can always use dryer venting hose. I run the outside air(i.e. sub-zero)right to my CPU through my tornado fan. My CPU runs cooler under full load than my system temp is .! But I don't really care that my computer sits by my window with dryer hoses running out of it and about 3 blankets wrapped around it to keep it from making my living room any colder. That will keep my 'Ho cold until summer when I run my AC through it :nod: .

I'm just curious...have you tried loosening your timings? It was already mentioned but to test if its your CPU faling run the small FFT test and to test the RAM use a custom 1024 to whatever it is 4xxx. I like his idea to lower the memory used but I don't do it myself. I let my rig sweat it out:p . My last mobile just flat out would not get out of teh 2.4s period. The one I have now is a whole different story though :nod: . If you can play games and do all teh things you need be happy. OK I take it back. If I followed my own advice I'ld still be running 10*230 in DC and not 10.5*250 and working for more :nod: . Good luck in your quest

If you don't think those Fortron #s are as impressive as you would like Rgone hit it on the head...they are real world #s. Only PPP&C rates the same way...at 50C temps. As a PSU gets hotter it gets less efficient and puts out less wattage if its cooler it does better. To the best of my knowledge everyone else takes there ratings way lower like 20C. Is it 20C in your tower???