alyusha

Well, I set it out and plugged in another PSU. 24 + 8 with CPU + HS and it all still blinked. I guess it is just dead. I dunno.

Tested PSU, runs fine. Plugged in only 24 pin Mobo power wire, all lights blink and won't boot. PC was running fine til I shut down and took out GPU to check something. I of course tried testing with no GPU, still blinks. So I am assuming that since no other parts are plugged in, it's safe to assume I fried my Mobo? Sorry for the short topic, in a hurry to get to the store before they close. Thanks.

So I have had a Corsair H80i (not v2 or GT) on my i7 6700k, I have not gotten to serious into OCing yet, but I am happy with the cooling. The H80i does not fit the lga 1151 100% snug, so that is something to consider in all of this. I also have a EVGA GTX 980ti SC+ with ACX 2.0 that I want to add water cooling to. I already purchased the Corsair HG10 N980 bracket, and due so some really stupid luck, I have too many water coolers and each one is different. So I am here to ask what you would put where! Again i7-6700k GTX 980Ti I have the H80i currently on the CPU I just got; h100i V2 h80i V2 h80i GT my case is a NZXT H440, so space is not really an issue. I could install all 4 plus some if I had the need for it, but I dont right now. So out of my available coolers, what would you put on what? And lets pretend that I plan to get another gtx 980ti, what would the 2nd best to use on the GPU? I know all these coolers should cool about the same, with the h100i v2 cooling slightly better, but I don't know much as this is my first round with water cooling. I do know that in a perfect world, I would like to put a cooler on my CPU that actually properly fits (any of the above coolers except normal H80i) Thanks for the help! Thanks for any help

Yeah. I was thinking that it would be hardly noticeable while on. But I am super worried about it. Worst case scenario, I can return it I guess.

Hey guys, I have been shopping around for a while now for some new monitor(s) and I think I have decided on the Asus VG248QE or the Acer GN246HL. I am more inclined towards the Asus because of the Displayport support and the rotation. All in all, I think price is what dictates this the most. I figure the Asus goes for $250 brand new, and the Acer is $200 brand new. While I can get the Asus refurbished for $200, so IMO, there is no question. Firstly, what is your recommendation between the two? Secondly, I found the Asus one for $80. Used. and attached is the photo of the damage to it. My question is, do you think this will be horribly noticeable? Do you think it would bother you? Or do you think you could look past it for the fact that its only $80? I will end up having dual panels, so this could be my secondary, but for now it would be my main. Thanks!

I had 1 SSD hooked up. So I am not sure what it was trying to boot from if not that. I only had options of ACHI and Raid, no IDE. It ended up fixing itself after a hard restart, it just booted up normal. I wish I could say I fixed it and give some more info, but apparently my computer is haunted. Ran chkdsk /f could not fix the disk since it was in read only. chkdsk found errors, but would not repair them. bootrec could not find an OS... Well, thank anyways!

Yes. It is not that I wanted to change it to RAID, but its the only way it will boot.. period. Not sure if secure boot got turned off or not, but if I go into boot manager and select secure boot to boot first, I get an error saying to insert the media into the drive and press any key, or restart the system. Thanks for your response. EDIT: Now that I have had a night to sleep on it, I wonder if this makes a difference... I purchased the mobo used from someone. Maybe their settings were set to raid when I initially set everything up, and now that I reset it to defaults, it all seems wrong? I am starting to think a wipe is the best thing here...

So here is the back info. I had 4 sticks of 8GB DDR4 2133 RAM. 2 sticks were Kingston, and the other 2 Corsair. In an attempt to make them all match, I picked up 2 sticks for cheap. I installed the new ram, and upon reboot, I got a mobo error code that essentially had to do with a memory error, dram red light on and no video. So I remove the ram, works fine. Try several different combos and it would not work with 1 stick of the new ram. I chalked this up as a faulty stick ( I will take that up with the manufacturer). But meanwhile, in an attempt to get bios to allow the new ram, I removed the battery. I guess I never should have done this. Now, after bios finishes booting, Windows 10 goes into recovery mode boot loop ending with INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE. No combination of "repairs" worked. The only thing I have found to work is changing the SATA port setting from AHCI to RAID. If I do this, everything boots up fine. Ok. So problem solved, right? No! This is not the setting it should be on to get my system to boot. In fact... It now displays a new screen at boot telling me about my drives and how they are not included in the RAID. So what is the deal here? Am I missing some type of setting? I have restored defaults. Should I just format and reinstall windows? (honestly not against that if it is a for sure fix. I just don't like things being done wrong, not to mention I lose a few seconds in boot time wasted on that screen that tells me nothing. Thanks for any help! Mobo - MSI z170 M5 bios v. 1.80 Rest of my specs are in my profile.

Thank you! So, I had some issues with the stock CPU cooler and have installed a Corsair H80i. Got some new readings... Idle------------------------------------- 24c Light Use (like now)---------------- 27c Prime95 Blend @ Start 43c. After 60 minutes 44c Prime95 FFT @ Start 53c. After 60 minutes 53c. Intel CPU Stress ------- 37c to 43c back and forth for 60 minutes straight. Not sure why it bounces around like that. "99/100% load" For what its worth... 14,680 in Fire Strike 1.1 ("Better than 89% of all results") I can stress and play WoW on max graphics averaging 140 FPS and sit at a solid 45c (CPU anyways). Or just on WoW, at about 38c. So I think that is much better, but where I should be with water cooling? I am pretty new to the water cooling .

Alright. Thanks! I'm just gonna take it easy and replace sooner than I originally intended.

I could not notice a difference while doing a stress test on the cpu at 100% load. Temp got up to 71c and averaged 65c. When I first power up, the fan sounds like an airplane and then slows down.

If this is the case then the sensor on your one fan might be bad/have a loose connection. You've just proven the actual CPU FAN header still works since it was able to give a reading with another fan plugged in. Try pushing the wires up into the female connector on your CPU FAN. I recently had a fan I received that would randomly stop spinning and when I checked the female connector I noticed the one wire was sitting a little further down than the others. Pushing the wires up fixed my issue with this fan and the same thing *could* be happening with the wire that's supposed to be giving a reading on your CPU FAN. If it's still spinning but not giving a reading it's probably running at 100% and that's why cooling isn't an issue. Still, you would obviously want it to adjust speeds depending on heat because there's no point in making the fan spin 100% all the time if it doesn't have to. This is what I'm thinking also and will give it a try when I get home. Either way, the whole thing is about to be replaced for water cooling, but meantime I don't like pushing it if I don't know that it can cool itself properly.

Also note that any fan I plug into cpufan1 makes cpufan1 read a valid rpm. Just not my actual cpu fan..

That's not the correct reading. The fan is not showing up in cpuid at all. No matter which header I move it to on the MOBO, the fan reads 0 rpm or is just missing. The fan still spins and keeps the cpu temps just fine, but it is a little scary because I feel that if a sensor is dead, the system can't really know when to increase speeds. When first starting up the pc, the fan kicks into high gear and slows to a steady spin. I am thinking (or hoping) it's just the fan it's self. But I guess I hope even more that I may have tripped something so ewhere.

Are you trying to format it through disk management or just right clicking > Format through file Explorer? I was having a similar issue with a hard drive and I was able to completely wipe it through disk management.