Gutterdude Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 Just as the title says, if you remove the IHS spreader you get better temps and better overclocks, it appears the IHS doesnt make good contact with both cores. I tried to apply as5 then re attach it was a little better, but now with no IHS spreaders, 2.7ghz Stable with prime 2hrs so far.. (300ht*9) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exar_333 Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 I just am so damn nervous when I remove those...no matter how many I have done...i practiced on 3-4 old celerons before attempting on a A64... god call tho, makes sense...with they made versions with copper IHS's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadawin Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 Gutterdude, glad to see it worked for you as well, hehe, looks my thread about the black sheep core 0 inspired quite some people. I'm now at 2550 Mhz with RAM at 1:1, 2600 requires a 5/6 divider and is slower, and I can boot and work in Windows 2805, but is not prime stable. But I am still stunned when thinking that I couldn't get above 2400 Mhz with the Idiot's Hat, and needed 1.5v - now it's 2550 MHz and 1.47v. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gutterdude Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 Yeah, I had to glue 2 pennys together since I dont have the blue screw for my waterblock, so on top of the block there are 2 pennys glue together :-) I can tell you that upgrading to OCZ-- pc4800 ram is awesome. running ddr 600 is nice. Mem timmnig is what u need to work on, I can probally help you with that. It took me a while to get mine stable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadawin Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 I have 4 sticks of double sided PC4800 already And running 4 DS sticks at 255 1:1 is quite good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gutterdude Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 yeah, I heard if u run 4 sticks, its not as easy to get 300mhz :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadawin Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 I took out 2 sticks and I can get 9x300 as well, 1:1, 2.5-4-4-8. But I didn't really fiddle around a lot with that, just a proof of concept more or less, wasn't prime stable even with 1.6v. So I would need to go for 8x300 which is 2.4 Ghz and not worth it. Now if I had a CPU that would do 2.7 with 1.55v then I might think about going for 2x 1GB sticks... but since I feel quite comfortable with 2550 Mhz with just 1.47v and DDR510 while having 2GB, I think it's not for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehrd Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 I have a question..How hard is it to get it off ? And I use the Swifty 6002 water block,Will the removal of that heat spreader prevent my water block from mounting correctly on the chip ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadawin Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 I can answer the first part: It's very easy, BUT you could destroy your CPU doing it. So don't do it, hear me? Ok, now we've got that out of the way, here's how I did it: I took one of those very thin flexible razorblades (see my sig) and started pressing it between the IHS and the chip surface at a corner, because that's the safest area, no small ICs near it. Then I made sure the blade is roughly 2-3mm (not more) covered by the IHS and cut halfway to another corner. Then I started again from this other corner, doing the same thing towards the first corner. Then in the other direction halfway to the 3rd corner, then from the 3rd corner back to the 2nd... I think you get what I did And after that I just went round the chip 1-2 times completely and it came off. Just be carefill never to cut deeper than 3mm, because that's roughly how deep the silicone stuff goes in. After that there's maybe another mm or two until you would cut one of those small ICs on the green PCB. And if possible, always make sure the razor is close to the IHS and not to the green PCB when cutting. The IHS should come off easily after all that. Just don't use too much force, otherwise you may find the core hanging from the IHS... so, you see, DON'T DO IT It'll be all your fault if you destroy your CPU. Regarding your waterblock, I can only say if you have some screws to tighten the block, and they are around 3mm longer than needed, it'll be no problem. Otherwise you could go the "2 pennys" way like gutterdude to make up for the 3mm thick IHS that's missing. So that should be no problem at all. Just be carful not to crack the die and don't use too much force. After "tight" the next step is "broken". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gutterdude Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 Its not that hard to remove, if you need help send me a PM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehrd Posted July 25, 2005 Posted July 25, 2005 I have screws that where a night mare to get started from the start as they where almost to short and the springs used are super duty so to compress them any you need to be the hulk... My main concern is not screws however BUT the upper bracket that surrounds the socket . So long as I can keep the water block off that on all 4 sides I am good... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gutterdude Posted July 25, 2005 Posted July 25, 2005 I think you will be fine.. But DONT DO IT!!! ok that aside.. post your results when u have them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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