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Which is water additives is best ?


p0tter

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Water Wetter gums up over time. Zerex seperates and the bits cling to your parts.

 

For my loop, I put in maybe 5mL of Zerex, and my loop takes about 1L of water. 10 months after setting everything up, I took the loop apart to do some maintenance (yeah I know, should have been done at ~5 months). When I drained my lines, the fluid coming out was just as clear as the distilled water that was put into it. I looked at my lines and res, and they looked stained. I let the lines dry out over a few days, then scraped a couple out.

 

This pic is of 2 small lines, 5.5" and 7.5" long, and the crap that I scraped out:

[bIMG]http://www.engr.uvic.ca/~rgustafs/pc/tube-crap.JPG[/bIMG]

 

I pulled my Fusion HL apart to check it, and there wasn't really any crap in there surprisingly. I'll be modding it for less resistance before I put it back into the loop.

 

Here's a pic of my setup as it stands in testing mode with a few mL of Zerex (notice the fairly clear lines and the stained res):

[bIMG]http://www.engr.uvic.ca/~rgustafs/pc/DFI-test1.JPG[/bIMG]

 

I only have copper and brass in my loop, so I wanted to run straight distilled water with a bit of anti-veggie stuff. I'm not sure which additive in a pet shop is safe to use though, I want it to be clear and not chunk up. Any suggestions?

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I am a firm belever in Water wetter for motorycles unfortunatly it will presipitat out junk in the system and that is not good for the waterblock mine got cloged by both water wetter and Zirex. I now have just nfiltered distilled water and no issues though I would like to add something.

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Innovatek Pro + distilled is the best coolant mixture I've tried so far. If you're going with UV dye try to get non-conductive (not TOO important as long as you police your fittings) and use very little. I'm trying Fluid XP now though.

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Innovatek Pro + distilled is the best coolant mixture I've tried so far. If you're going with UV dye try to get non-conductive (not TOO important as long as you police your fittings) and use very little. I'm trying Fluid XP now though.

 

 

like there arent the least bit of conducting contaiminents in your w/c loop ...

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Yea test the righ out completely then add the color.

 

referring to teh non conductive fluid , residue on tubing , blocks and rad .. how is teh system goin to be fully non conductive lol . my .02c

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referring to teh non conductive fluid , residue on tubing , blocks and rad .. how is teh system goin to be fully non conductive lol . my .02c

 

Not claiming that simply trying to minimise risk. Many of those things leach in over time. Puttng that UC stuff is the first thing om most peoples mind and you should wait at least a day of running and you should test without power for 12 hrs.

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like there arent the least bit of conducting contaiminents in your w/c loop ...

 

Of course there are and their concentration increases over time, but the trick is to minimize conductivity as much as possible.

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  • 4 weeks later...

FYI.

Water wetter will foam up if you use too much. Learned that the hard way.

I use about 5% ww, 15% atf and the rest water. More than 20% antifreeze is overkill. You want just enough to kill the slime. ATF will actually decrease the cooling ability of the water. Proof is on the back of the Water Wetter bottle.

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