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djalma

Problem with the clock (bios & system) in nf2 infinity

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Odd, this is the 2nd time I've heard of this problem.

It's irq0 that's the problem.

 

You can reprogram this to use a diffrent dividors but I never found the asm or machine code for it, just c code.

 

Some cards or programs can set this up so it gets a higher resolution timer.

Then it's "supposed" to re-rout the irq and multiply it or soemthign back to it's normal value so other programs run correctly.

They don't allways do it though.

 

It's the best explination I can come up with.

I don't really think it's the board fault.

 

 

I really can't explain how it's doing that....

 

Anyways try to unplug ALL unnessesary cards and such, bare bones.

Then see if it's gone.

 

Also there's been a previous thread on this very same problem that I've seen.

The guy that had the prob chnage a signle setting in his bios and it worked fine after that I believe.

It was odd, but it's worth looking into ;) .

You would have to use the search function though, I posted in it so it should'nt be to hard to find.

Thinking irq0 as a search term may work, I dn, if you can't end up finding it, report back that you can't and I'll try to find it :) .

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I have the same problem....fast clock. About 15minutes fast PER DAY.

 

Before my OLD Infinity had a slow clock and it eventually died so I had to RMA. This board has been great for several months until now.

 

Anybody have any ideas?

 

Can anyone point me to the thread mentioned by in the previous post?

 

Thanks,

C

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Um you could try a long cmos clear with a mb battery change...

 

My Mb battery was on its way out when I first got this board causing the time to be reset every time I booted...

 

I remember reading somewhere it was advised to change the bat as soon as you got the new board,Give it a shot its only like a 2 dollar investment:)

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Your voltages are all over the place with that PSU. If they are anywhere close to what you posted, then a much better PSU appears to be a must have for your system. Your 3.3v rail is at 3.22v to start with and fluctuates from 3.14v to 3.47v? The 5v rail is a bit better, but it still has about a .5v swing? The 12v rail starts at 11.92v (if accurate that's okay), but then it jumps from 10.82v to 13.19v, that's more than a 3v change; I'm surprised you can even boot up your system!!? Vbat has a 1.2v swing. I'd check all your voltages at idle/load (if you can get load readings) with a multimeter, to see where they are really at. Maybe those readings are completely inaccurate? I'd start there though.

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Initialy saying that the spec sheet states minimum PSu is 250w LOL made me kinda wonder. I gave up then, i dont know anyone that would try to run these mobo on that spec. :)

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I think remenber (Motherboard English Manual) that the min PSU 4 this mobo is 250W with default values & few device attached. Like reference:

http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Po...tor.php?cmd=AMD

(4 Overclock [isnt this case]: http://newstuff.orcon.net.nz/wCalc.html )

 

He wants to play and quote by the book LOL;) okeedokee. :) :shake:

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First at all, I gave this subject by impossible 4 the Zero support from DFI (as result 0 purchases 2 DFI in the future), & i didnt hope to receive more answers but seems that the problem go on & not only 4 me...

 

---------------------------------------------------

 

Second Ill try to answer to the following "jokers":

 

Your voltages are all over the place with that PSU. If they are anywhere close to what you posted, then a much better PSU appears to be a must have for your system. Your 3.3v rail is at 3.22v to start with and fluctuates from 3.14v to 3.47v? The 5v rail is a bit better, but it still has about a .5v swing? The 12v rail starts at 11.92v (if accurate that's okay), but then it jumps from 10.82v to 13.19v, that's more than a 3v change; I'm surprised you can even boot up your system!!? Vbat has a 1.2v swing. I'd check all your voltages at idle/load (if you can get load readings) with a multimeter, to see where they are really at. Maybe those readings are completely inaccurate? I'd start there though.

 

This is the configuration file 4 that output:

bash-3.00$ less /etc/sensors.conf

...

chip "w83782d-*" "w83627hf-*"

 

# Same as above for w83781d except that in5 and in6 are computed differently.

# Rather than an internal inverting op amp, the 82d/83s use standard positive

# inputs and the negative voltages are level shifted by a 3.6V reference.

# The math is convoluted, so we hope that your motherboard

# uses the recommended resistor values.

 

label in0 "VCore 1"

label in1 "VCore 2"

label in2 "+3.3V"

label in3 "+5V"

label in4 "+12V"

label in5 "-12V"

label in6 "-5V"

label in7 "V5SB"

label in8 "VBat"

label fan1 "Back"

label fan2 "CPU"

label fan3 "Front"

label temp1 "M/B"

label temp2 "CPU"

 

compute in3 ((6.8/10)+1)*@ , @/((6.8/10)+1)

compute in4 ((28/10)+1)*@ , @/((28/10)+1)

compute in5 (5.14 * @) - 14.91 , (@ + 14.91) / 5.14

compute in6 (3.14 * @) - 7.71 , (@ + 7.71) / 3.14

compute in7 ((6.8/10)+1)*@ , @/((6.8/10)+1)

 

# adjust this if your vid is wrong; see doc/vid

# set vrm 9.0

 

# set limits to 5% for the critical voltages

# set limits to 10% for the non-critical voltages

# set limits to 20% for the battery voltage

 

set in0_min vid*0.95

set in0_max vid*1.05

set in1_min vid*0.95

set in1_max vid*1.05

set in2_min 3.3 * 0.95

set in2_max 3.3 * 1.05

set in3_min 5.0 * 0.95

set in3_max 5.0 * 1.05

set in4_min 12 * 0.90

set in4_max 12 * 1.10

set in5_max -12 * 0.90

set in5_min -12 * 1.10

set in6_max -5 * 0.95

set in6_min -5 * 1.05

set in7_min 5 * 0.95

set in7_max 5 * 1.05

set in8_min 3.0 * 0.80

set in8_max 3.0 * 1.20

# set up sensor types (thermistor is default)

# 1 = PII/Celeron Diode; 2 = 3904 transistor;

# 3435 = thermistor with Beta = 3435

# If temperature changes very little, try 1 or 2.

set sensor1 3435

set sensor2 3435

set sensor3 3435

 

# examples for temperature limits

# set temp1_over 40

# set temp1_hyst 37

# set temp2_over 52

# set temp2_hyst 47

# set temp3_over 52

# set temp3_hyst 47

 

## ignore temp3

set fan1_div 4

set fan2_div 4

set fan3_div 16

d u know what i mean? or maybe ill have to explain u in pictures :P These r the alarm limits, no real values!!!!!!!!!!!: Alarm values 4 example ---> (min = +2.40 V, max = +3.60 V)

------------------------------------------

 

Initialy saying that the spec sheet states minimum PSu is 250w LOL made me kinda wonder. I gave up then, i dont know anyone that would try to run these mobo on that spec. :)

 

The only requirement is to know read. Do u know read? If ur answer is yes then begin to read:

http://www.dfi.com.tw/Upload/Manual/nfiiui...%2075300331.pdf

 

If u r lazy:

The system board requires a minimum of 250 Watt power sup-

ply to operate. Your system configuration (amount of memory,

add-in cards, peripherals, etc.) may exceed the minimum power

requirement. To ensure that adequate power is provided, use a

300 Watt (or greater) power supply.

 

Im not an overclocker, & I have tested the system with only cpu, memory & vga. The problem persist.

I changed the mb battery 4 a newone but problem persist also...

 

Sorry 4 my english 2 the rest of people :P.

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When i see the picture above (gkrellm), i remenber one thing. I have attached to mainboard 3 fans: 1 cpu fan & 2 case fan (front & back). Well, the cpu fan & the 2º case fan are detected with programs like sensors in lnx & equivalent in windows, but 1 case fan isnt detected. I tried change the fan divisor but nothing happend...

 

bash-3.00$ sensors

w83l785ts-i2c-3-2e

Adapter: SMBus nForce2 adapter at 5100

temp: +23°C (high = +85°C)

 

w83627hf-isa-0290

Adapter: ISA adapter

VCore 1: +1.60 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +0.00 V)

VCore 2: +1.50 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +0.00 V)

+3.3V: +3.22 V (min = +3.14 V, max = +3.47 V)

+5V: +4.87 V (min = +4.76 V, max = +5.24 V)

+12V: +11.92 V (min = +10.82 V, max = +13.19 V)

-12V: -11.62 V (min = -13.18 V, max = -10.80 V)

V5SB: +5.35 V (min = +4.76 V, max = +5.24 V)

VBat: +3.20 V (min = +2.40 V, max = +3.60 V)

Back: 2657 RPM (min = 1328 RPM, div = 4)

CPU: 2678 RPM (min = 1328 RPM, div = 4)

Front: 0 RPM (min = 332 RPM, div = 16)

M/B: +35°C (high = +0°C, hyst = +0°C) sensor = thermistor

CPU: +35.5°C (high = +120°C, hyst = +115°C) sensor = thermistor

temp3: +25.0°C (high = +120°C, hyst = +115°C) sensor = thermistor

 

PD: This fan is detected when i put it in other system...

 

Aren't those readings of the voltages and temperatures taken from an OS (operating system) booted environment? If so, then they would most likely be an indication of running into potential problems, but software utility readings of voltages are not the best for getting the most accurate read one can get on them. What you should do is get a multimeter and measure the voltages manually under idle conditions, and also under load, with some type of program or programs that would continually use a fair amount of memory and boost the processor utilization. By doing that then we can get a better idea of how your power supply is meeting the task of running your computer.

 

You also mentioned what it said in the manual about a 250W minimum power supply. The manual also mentions that 300W or greater may be needed. In addition to that, some power supplies are much better than others. I personally have a 400W power supply that I would take any day over some of the 500W power supplies that I have seen for sale. They are not all created equal. So just going by the wattage rating on a power supply is not necessarily going to always give someone what they'd be needing for running their motherboard and other components that would be used along with it. Even if you have a really good 600W power supply hooked up to that motherboard, it's not going to be too much, as the components will draw what they need from it. I was just using a 600W power supply as an example.

 

Just because someone has a power supply that says 250W, even 300W or more, doesn't mean it's going to be able to put out that amount of power consistently, cleanly and in a stable manner, and some computer systems might run okay with it, when others would not. Some power supplies are rated with the wattage on their label actually being the maximum amount of power they can put out PEAK, maybe even just before it would give out altogether. That probably being the case with some power supplies, the amount of continuous power that can be put out consistently would be much less than that. We haven't even gotten into the area of stability of the power output, the amount of amperage and how much each rail can handle, how clean the power is and so on. Details my friend, details....and there are many of them in this old world.

 

We (site owner(s), admins, mods, members, users and etc.) really need more exacting information on your PSU (power supply unit); like the brand, the exact model number and ratings on the 3.3v - 5v - 12v rails. Also, you really should use and/or get a DMM (digital multimeter) with which you can measure the voltages, if you know how to use one. Please don't get upset with me if you do know how to use one, because I'm not trying to make fun of or talk down to you. I'm only trying to help cover as much as I can in this post, so there would hopefully be less need to go over such information later.

 

It would also be a great amount of help to yourself, and all of us here in this forum, if you would put together a detailed signature like the one I have below my member/user name. If you'd list, in your profile, what country you are from that can help us all too.

 

Best to you, :)

medianOCer

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