Cold Boot? Memory Died? [email protected] = who you need to contact

[fhertlein]

I actually had to repair my Windows install because of the many incomplete boots/crashes, and that fixed some of my issues.

 

Using the 188 divider, 260x4x10, with 3.1v and my CPU at 1.45v, the system is stable.

 

My new problem is having to disable the Marvell Nic because Windows keeps saying new hardware found and throws a Machine Check Exception when installing the drivers. Makes me wonder if the board is starting to go buh-bye.

 

Old Fart:

 

A full listing of the various BIOS:

http://www.abxzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88699

[AndyOCZ]

I guess you're a busy guy, Andy. Tried emailing you (twice) with no response so I'll try here.

 

DFI LanParty NF4 Ultra-D, OCZ PC4000 VX 1GB, AMD A64 3500+ Winchester, Sapphire X850 XT, other assorted stuff not worth bragging about.

 

Hey there O_F! Sorry my friend I read your emails you sent today, but between my 8lb Chiuahua "Chico" eating snail posion yesterday and a vet visit today (he's OK), working on some testing that needs to be done and the usual duties I was unable to respond sooner. I usually clean up email in the evenings that I have not been able to take care of.

 

The link in the above post should take care of you. I promise that if I see another email from you I will give you priority.

 

If you need anything, let me know.

 

BTW, nice tip on the CMOS reset switch.

[red930]

I've been thinking of making a semi-permanent version of your ideal setup for a couple of years.

 

I'm looking for a latching switch that shorts position 1 and 2 in the first position then 2 and 3 when pressed. It should revert to the original position when pressed again.

 

None of the local parts houses have anything like it and the counter guys look at me funny when I show them my drawing.

 

It's not meant to be permanent but only used during setup and testing.

If I wasn't so lazy, I would have driven over to Radio Shack and picked up a 2-position switch with a center common pole. However, I didn't want to make this TOO easy to do for fear I would accidentally clear the CMOS. As it is now, I've got the business end of this rig tucked in behind the front panel of my Lian Li PC-76 case. All I have to do is pop off the front panel, locate the plug and follow the above procedure. Works like a champ.

[h_Us3r]

Hey there O_F! Sorry my friend I read your emails you sent today, but between my 8lb Chiuahua "Chico" eating snail posion yesterday and a vet visit today (he's OK), working on some testing that needs to be done and the usual duties I was unable to respond sooner. I usually clean up email in the evenings that I have not been able to take care of.

 

The link in the above post should take care of you. I promise that if I see another email from you I will give you priority.

 

If you need anything, let me know.

 

BTW, nice tip on the CMOS reset switch.

 

Andy's a really nice guy

You are gonna make me buy this OCZ gear.

 

Please all try and forgive me as I was a *slightly* heavy-handed in my earlier assertation(s). @this point I have read the words of some very smart peeps with big enough hearts and loose enuff schedules to share their views(thanks for that)

It just bites that I can't cop the sweet PC5000'ness that only runs @3.3+.

but there are firmly in my mind ways that this problem can be avoided and STILL preserve the integrity of the components(RAM) that are the losers in this case...wuteva, I luv this thing and will do my best to preserve it. Quite truthfully, this seems a lot to me like peeps get "jumper" crazy, and switch something that shouldn't be switched "just because you can". Even with the vague instructions, they still said not to play with it and it can cause damage. doesn't overclocking mean getting the most from the least? You got dudes that push 2.7-3.0+ on barton'[email protected]/2.6v,2.7v(that didn't EVEN drop bank for accessories...)

 

h

[Old_Fart]

I actually had to repair my Windows install because of the many incomplete boots/crashes, and that fixed some of my issues.

 

Using the 188 divider, 260x4x10, with 3.1v and my CPU at 1.45v, the system is stable.

 

My new problem is having to disable the Marvell Nic because Windows keeps saying new hardware found and throws a Machine Check Exception when installing the drivers. Makes me wonder if the board is starting to go buh-bye.

 

Old Fart:

 

A full listing of the various BIOS:

http://www.abxzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88699

 

Cool. Thanks, dude. Looks like there's some pretty useful information there. I've got some reading to do tonight.

 

Later.

[timpanogos]

Ok, ya ready to hear more craziness?

 

I actually shut down my machine when I first heard about these issues to await more information (way too much money in this box already) … Anyway, I decided to be safe and ordered the OZC DDR booster. It should be showing up tomorrow …

 

Anyway, went to fire up the box tonight and to get a few files off it I needed …. It would not post, no video at all … nothing several resets/ 5 sec power down button cycles … same thing – black screen, no nothing.

 

When I shut down at the start of all this, several days back … I cleanly exited windows with it’s shut down … but never powered down the box completely. So it had the 5vs on board for several days, but all else off.

 

I unplugged the power and was going to reset cmos etc.., but gave it one more shot after a few seconds of total power off.

 

Wham Bam – here I sit working on it …

 

A warm boot problem (needed to cold boot to get it up).

 

Hmmmmm ….. hope the booster clears things up a bit ….

[Rezag1000]

I think what we need to fear is that the problem does not come from the 5V jumper.

 

If the jumper is the prob, people can just put it on the 3.3V rail, but if it's not the jumper, then the board is defective :sad: :sad:

 

again, I have not had a problem, I dont even know if there is one.....

[crazykooter]

I get less cold boot issues on the 5v rail then I do on the 3.3v. I have posted this on XS but I for some reason think its a VR issue then anything. No proof just a hunch is all.

[JfRsQ]

I guess you're a busy guy, Andy. Tried emailing you (twice) with no response so I'll try here.

 

The link you provided displays only the BIOS settings. There is no link to the 510-2 BIOS on that page (at least that I can see or find). And yes, my A64 is a Winchester so hopefully those settings will work for me.

 

If anyone has a link to the 510-2 BIOS, I would appreciate a post. I've been told in an email by RGone that this BIOS doesn't really fix anything but obviously, I need to find out for myself. Someone created it for a reason and hopefully it'll fix something (ANY fix at this point would be good).

 

And yeah, I'm trying to stay calm through all this as well. That 1/4 Irish blood in me though doesn't make it easy. Fortunately I have a server to fall back on when things go foobar so even if this thing takes a complete dump, I won't be dead in the water.

 

I've got enough spare parts at this point to build about 3 more systems so it's not like I don't have anything constructive to do. I'm only partially retired (mostly out of pure laziness) but at least the consulting gig provides me with a method of paying for all this fancy new hardware.

 

I hope this next part isn't too much off topic but it's something that's helped me a great deal during these trials and tribulations. I got very tired of ripping the side off my case and clearing the CMOS (with that little tiny jumper --- my eye sight not being what it used to be) every time I screwed something up so I came up with a very simple method of solving that problem.

 

I had an old case laying around the I was never going to use for anything so I ripped out all the front panel power switch, reset switch, etc., wiring and used one of the 2-pin connectors and a single-pin connector (more stuff that plugs into the motherboard) to create a 3-pin connector (super-glued the 2 together) to attach to the CMOS clear pins on my DFI board.

 

I then used a 3-pin (motherboard type) fan extension cable for the rest of this rig. I used the female part that plugs into the motherboard (for fan +/- volts and rpm) to wire the newly fashioned 3-pin connector attached to the CMOS clear pins to and the other end (the male part) became the plug.

 

I only used two the pins on the male plug and shorted them together with some wire I had laying around. I then plugged the 3-pin connector onto the CMOS clear motherboard pins and use the plug on the other end with the 2 shorted pins to complete the circuit.

 

Now, whenever I screw up my CMOS settings (which any more is pretty rare), all I have to do is pull the plug off, rotate it 180 degrees, plug it back in to short out the CMOS clearing pins, leave it on for 10 seconds, take it off, rotate it 180 degrees, put it back on and I'm back in buisness with a freshly cleared CMOS.

 

If I wasn't so lazy, I would have driven over to Radio Shack and picked up a 2-position switch with a center common pole. However, I didn't want to make this TOO easy to do for fear I would accidentally clear the CMOS. As it is now, I've got the business end of this rig tucked in behind the front panel of my Lian Li PC-76 case. All I have to do is pop off the front panel, locate the plug and follow the above procedure. Works like a champ.

 

Anyway, if someone out there takes this idea and runs with it (meaning you market the idea), I don't expect a cut of the action but it would be nice to get an actual PROFESSIONALLY made version of this thing (one I WOULDN'T feel embarrased to show someone).

 

Later.

 

DFI LanParty NF4 Ultra-D, OCZ PC4000 VX 1GB, AMD A64 3500+ Winchester, Sapphire X850 XT, other assorted stuff not worth bragging about.

 

You mean something like this ? On my picture, it is the wire going from the CMOS 3 pins to the switch with red electrical tape on the backside. Yeah... I've been lazy too already and made thosed things on all my rigs since my AMD overclocking adventure and really crappy cmos reset jumper emplacement. I have 2 or 3 of them somewhere in a box, they are a bit more nice than this one (this one was an old rig ) and only God know how this thing have been useful when NF7-S was a bios killer and cold booting pos :shake:

[tennvols_69]

ok guys ive got a question im running a ultra-d and some OCZ PC4000VX, now i havent even started to overclock as my phasechange is down and im now waiting on a res to set up the watercooling. my problem is this im running everything stock with bios 4-14 ATM. i found that in order to pass memtest i have to use 2.6vdimm anything other and i get massive errors. now mind you this is at stock 200mhz bus. at first i thought its somekind of problem with the memcontroler but after reading oskar wu post about his second stick im beginning to worry. I bought the VX as ive read it was awesome for this board and i wanted to get the most from my system. do you guys think im experiancing memory failure? and if so what should i do? rma both board and memory? oskar or andy if you guys have any info you can provide i would greatly appericeate it. my res should be here sat. so i will also give that a try too. thx tennvols_69

[kimandsally]

Hey there O_F! Sorry my friend I read your emails you sent today, but between my 8lb Chiuahua "Chico" eating snail posion yesterday and a vet visit today (he's OK), working on some testing that needs to be done and the usual duties I was unable to respond sooner. I usually clean up email in the evenings that I have not been able to take care of.

 

The link in the above post should take care of you. I promise that if I see another email from you I will give you priority.

 

If you need anything, let me know.

 

BTW, nice tip on the CMOS reset switch.

 

Glad to hear your little mate Chico is OK, much more important than computers in my opinion, ( hope I don't get shot on here for saying that)

You do a fine job on here for us I've read many of your posts and they've been very helpfull.

[tennvols_69]

ok update. with 1x512 in yellow i get boot but can not load memtest v1.55 in yellow i can load memtest 1 passes all test at 2.6 and 1 fails @ 2.6 timmings are 3,3,3,8 . in dual channel i got one pass test 7 fail one pass test 7 with 2.6v @ 3,3,3,8 cpc was on for these tests as i would rather have it run with 1T. maybe a problem with this version of memtest and OCZ PC4000VX. i do have som OCZ PC3700EB im gonna try later probally. any recommendations on this as im fearing the worst.