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THunDA

*NEW-DFI NF4-D*.. Mod to SataII and SLI Picture Tutorial

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What's the benefit of SataII anyways? I don't know anything about it.

 

I'm on my 74gb raptor, so I haven't bothered to mod to SataII since I don't know if it's worth taking my system apart again. I did do the SLI mod tho, and couldn't get SLI to work on two diff vid cards flashed to same bios. They looked physically diff on the PCB, tho.

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What's the benefit of SataII anyways? I don't know anything about it.

 

I'm on my 74gb raptor, so I haven't bothered to mod to SataII since I don't know if it's worth taking my system apart again. I did do the SLI mod tho, and couldn't get SLI to work on two diff vid cards flashed to same bios. They looked physically diff on the PCB, tho.

 

Heya [email protected]

 

SataII uses 3.0gbs and regular Sata uses 1.5gbs...

 

Your hard drive doesnt support SataII so it wouldnt be worth it for you to do the mod..

 

For your SLI situation.. Ive seen that with someone else were the pcb looked different and SLI didnt work.. Thats why its important to make sure they are exactly the same.. Its good to buy both cards at the same time because they will most likely be the same revision..

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I just found out I accidently purchased a NF4-D instead of an Ultra-D and decided to try to take care of my oversight myself using this mod. I've already done one successful SLI mod with an Ultra-D back when the boards were first released. This time however I'm having no luck whatsoever. I had heard there was supposed to be some kind of epoxy glob covering the contacts now, but there doesn't appear to be any epoxy on mine (at least I can see down to the PCB). So without doing any scraping I'm trying to bridge the contacts with a #2 pencil, and so far no luck. All I can think of is that there is in fact a very thin coating of something over the PCB that is preventing this from working, but I really was under the impression it was a very obvious glob. Can anybody here enlighten me as to what I may be doing wrong?

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If you look back at the beginning of the thread, the early chipsets had a very thin layer of clear coat covering the contact points. This is applied to prevent corrosion.

 

You can take regular pencil eraser and rub the coating off until the contact points are very shiny. Once this is done you can use a pencil or CircuitWriter to bridge the points.

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I must have missed the part about the clear coat, but the eraser trick does seem to be working after a few tries. I've now gotten the board to recognize as an Ultra. Still haven't succeeded with the SLI portion, but I'll keep at it. Thanks for the advice!

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Alright, after an hour or so at it I'm still at the same point with the board recognizing as Ultra. Still can't get it to read as SLI. So last question: with the board reading as Ultra, that means that I have successfully bridged the SataII contact but not the SLI contact, correct? I just want to know where I should be focusing my efforts. Ever since I the board starting reading as Ultra at boot I've been focusing my eraser on the SLI contacts and leaving the SataII ones alone.

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Yes! The Ultra means SATA II enabled.

 

Keep working on the SLI contact points.

 

So last question: with the board reading as Ultra, that means that I have successfully bridged the SataII contact but not the SLI contact, correct?

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It took some doing, but all's well that ends well: SLI is recognized! I think I wasn't fully getting the graphite from the pencil off between attempts. One final massive rub down with the eraser did the trick!

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