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DFI Recommended Power Supplies (UPDATED October 20th, 2006!)


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this has some intersting info .....Myths? whatever what do ya'll think of this info can any of it be trusted or is it just production hype to sell there own products? http://www.pcpower.com/technology/myths/

from the explaination they give it makes sense to me but what do I know?

thanks

Guy

 

There's good stuff, and there's bad stuff.

 

The part about modular PSUs is completely false. I tried measuring the resistance with a multimeter of three molex connection splitters connected together.. they pulled those figures out of their butt.

 

Would I be surprised to see modular PSUs that suck that much? No. Do I believe it applies to all of them? No..

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The part about modular PSUs is completely false. I tried measuring the resistance with a multimeter of three molex connection splitters connected together.. they pulled those figures out of their butt.

 

Talk about pulling things out of your butt... lol

 

There is no way you can tell me that you actually believe you have the same level of test equipment as a full blown testing lab. NO WAY!

 

The simple fact is that every connector in a chain is a weak point. GUARANTEED!

 

Just think about a normal PSU with a wire soldered to the PSU rail on one end and a crimp connector on the other.

 

Now imagine that you put two crimped connectors in the middle with a friction joint between them. You've just created three new potential points of failure where before there were none.

 

For fun let's just add the potential for corrosion at the connection point and you've got a good argument against modular power supplies.

 

Honestly, I'm starting to have a new level of respect for a few modular power supplies that are available. The OCZ EvoStream and Corsair HX series have held up nicely in testing. These units have very conservative ratings and the modular hardware is first rate.

 

Most of all, the Corsair uses a traditional "hard wire" setup for the ATX and 4/8pin power connections which I find better than the OCZ solution.

 

The only benefit of having detachable ATX and 4/8pin power connections would be if they provided different lengths in the kit or for purchase so you could pick a custom size rather than a "one size fits all" setup.

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I know it was dropped in the ATX2.2 Specs, but I was told on another forum that this rail is important for the DFI Lanparty Boards to properly work.

For Clarity

 

The DFI Lanparty series of motherboard do not use, require or run better with a -5V rail.

 

If you come to the source for information, why on earth would you trust anyone at another forum? I'm sorry but I just find your lack of faith disturbing. /Darth Vader lol

 

To the best of my knowledge, the very last motherboard that required the -5V rail was an MSI unit that had an on-board SoundBlaster solution.

 

When users started getting new power supplies, they lost the use of the on-board SoundBlaster because the new power supplies no longer provided the -5V rail.

 

FYI Back in the day, there were several components that needed 7V to operate. Combining the 12V and -5V lines gave them a 7V result.

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FYI Back in the day, there were several components that needed 7V to operate. Combining the 12V and -5V lines gave them a 7V result.

 

They can still do that nowadays by using the +5v line as the earth and the +12v as a feed. I have several of my fans wired this way because I don't have fan controllers and 5v is too low.

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They can still do that nowadays by using the +5v line as the earth and the +12v as a feed. I have several of my fans wired this way because I don't have fan controllers and 5v is too low.

 

Just be aware that a setup like that is OK for fans but you really wouldn't want to run solidstate devices with it.

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what ya think of this PS PC P&C S75Q its not on the list but its big brother {T1KWSR}http://www.pcpower.com/products/viewproduc...KWSR&view=about is,... better price than newegg too which supprises me http://www.pcpower.com/products/viewproduct.php?show=S75Q

 

 

I was thinking this PC P&C 750 or the OCZ 700w, corsair HX-620

I like some of the stuff PC P&C is claiming but value the experience and opinions here more than my whimszcal prefrences so wat ya think?

thanks Guy

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what ya think of this PS PC P&C S75Q its not on the list but its big brother {T1KWSR}http://www.pcpower.com/products/viewproduc...KWSR&view=about is,... better price than newegg too which supprises me http://www.pcpower.com/products/viewproduct.php?show=S75Q

 

 

I was thinking this PC P&C 750 or the OCZ 700w, corsair HX-620

I like some of the stuff PC P&C is claiming but value the experience and opinions here more than my whimszcal prefrences so wat ya think?

thanks Guy

 

All the PCP&Ps are rated to 50c. That one is rated to 40.. why?

 

It's probably a kickass PSU, but this raises a red flag for me.

 

Most are rated to 25c.. 30c for some fortrons, so at least they are honest. A friend with a 610 silencer loves it.

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All the PCP&Ps are rated to 50c. That one is rated to 40.. why?

 

It's probably a kickass PSU, but this raises a red flag for me.

 

Most are rated to 25c.. 30c for some fortrons, so at least they are honest. A friend with a 610 silencer loves it.

 

It's not one of the Turbo-Cool series, which is rated higher. Notice the 510 watt Turbo Cool is more expensive than the 750 watt Silencer.

 

I'm sure it's still a great power supply though, and that was the one I was going to get (then decided it wasn't necessary).

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It's not one of the Turbo-Cool series, which is rated higher. Notice the 510 watt Turbo Cool is more expensive than the 750 watt Silencer.

 

I'm sure it's still a great power supply though, and that was the one I was going to get (then decided it wasn't necessary).

 

just for the sake of knowing why did you get the 510 ASL out of all the 510's that PC P&C makes?? looks like they have 5 different versions?

thanks

Guy

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Talk about pulling things out of your butt... lol

 

There is no way you can tell me that you actually believe you have the same level of test equipment as a full blown testing lab. NO WAY!

 

I don't remember having said that. But implying I did makes it much easier to say I'm pulling stuff out of my butt, I suppose.

 

Measuring resistance isn't something that would require a 'full blown testing lab.' It can be done with a multimeter of good quality, and two prongs. If I did need a full blown testing lab to measure resistance, anything I put together would blow up when I use a 75 ohms resistor instead of a 10K one.

 

The simple fact is that every connector in a chain is a weak point. GUARANTEED!

 

Yes. However, the PCP&P interview claimed 30%. I don't need a full blown testing lab to know that each connection doesn't add 30% resistance. This is insane, and if it were true, there wouldn't be a modular PSU out there that could power anything but a five year old emachines.. much less be on the top of the first post of this thread. Is it the best thing? No, if any of them gets tugged on or unplugged a tiny bit, there goes my game. Or perhaps a graphics card, depending on one's luck at the time.

 

Plugged in properly, with connectors that aren't rusted, no amount of condescending remarks will lead me to believe each connection makes 30% resistance, or that it kills reliability on a good PSU. Or that Corsair wouldn't be listed on the first page as (quickly becoming Happy_Games' favorite psu. Modular, strong rails, low-heat, nearly silent...excellent excellent unit!). If this were true, that PSU would have been thrown in the garbage the second someone tried a game in SLI on it.. which I'm guessing was done before the PSU was put on the list.

 

If this were a Rosewill PSU.. or if the ones that came with your new HP pavilon or whatever the hell they call junl they sell prebuilt in best buy, the weak point would be at every connector, I'm sure. I wouldn't doubt for a second that they corroded easily, jiggled around and wouldn't make good contact.

 

I would guess that the modular connector for the ATX plug is incase you buy a P180, or some eccentric case where a short plug doesn't work. In this case, you can get an extension cable, but then you have two weak points instead of one. Most extension cables and splitters suck in my experience, they are either too tight, or too loose, and are a general pain in the butt.

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