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davidhammock200

DFI Recommended Power Supplies (UPDATED October 20th, 2006!)

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Hey guys, I'd just like to give my input on this PSU...

 

http://www.silverstonetek.com/products-56zf.htm

 

I've had this PSU for two weeks now and right off the bat I've noticed less CPU voltage sag/spiking and a decrease in CPU temps by 1-2 C! I think this is solely because my old PSU threw off a TON of heat and was soaking everything. I've had NO power related problems with my SLI-DR and have simply loved this PSU. Not to mention it's rated to handle dual GTX's and has the 8 pin connector. Why isn't this on the list?

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: ( I just got an expert and my current PSU only has a 4 pin 12v cable, I looked at the pics on newegg and this one only has a 4 pin as well? Am I missing something?

Any PSU that is EPS12V compliant will have the correct plug regardless of the images.

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Just wondering if this PSU will be good for my system ? It comes recomended by this site but just wondering if it will power my system better than my current PSU with. I am looking for a stable replacement.

 

Enermax 600W ATX EG701AX-VE

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Hi there!

 

I have no problems with going out and by a proper PSU and so I did I thought. I cite the manual page 69 "The system board requires a minimum of 300 Watt power of supply to operate. [...] To ensure that adequate power is provided, we strongly recommend that you use a minimum of 400 Watt (or greater power supply)." So i went out and bought the excellent Cooler Master Real Power 450W thinking it would be more than sufficient because I do not run high-end graphics.

 

But now I read this:

 

DFI REQUIRES native 24-pin ATX molex & 480W for all the DFI N4 mobos.

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/sho...22&postcount=34

 

Hand on, why the heck didn't you say so in the manual then?! 480W and 300W are a littlebit off, innit? 480W are all of a sudden the minimum requirement... this ain't cricket telling me only now that I had shelled out good euros for a quality PSU. I could have gone for the bigger version if I knew! No, I can't return the thing because it was on sale *d'oh*

 

Okay, so while we are at it, the frikin' manual says "it is preferrable to have an 8-pin VRM connector" - is it really? Maybe it is the minimum requirement, too? So please update me here as well, because I am having a heck of a lot of stability problems and the outdated manual may be just the answer as to why!

 

Cheers

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If you read the recommendations on this forum thoroughly you'll notice that xxxW is just one side of the coin. Of more importance are Amperages and its stability. That said mean that a quality PSU of 450W with good stable 12V rails will be far better than a 600W overestimated PSU. So 480W is in a way a safer minimum, but still only if it's met with a real quality PSU.

 

I wonder though: you have an Expert so does your PSU actually support it with the right connectors (8-pin)?

 

Overall your setup isn’t very power-hungry, so 450W could be enough.

 

Except the PSU issue, the Expert board will demand some more tweaking of RAM settings before considered stable.

 

You also have a dual core CPU which - in case you're using XP - will work better if you do some adjustments to how the operating system works.

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Arent the manuals generic for DFI mobos? You should of also checked be4 buying, this is why im checking all my components be4 I buy any parts! Maybe you can sell it to a bud of your then get another PSU? Also there is a PSU calculator which can tell you how many Watts your PSU should have. I think its in my useful links at the bottom of my sig. On that link somewhere there is a link to the onine PSU calculator!

 

Could someone answer my question about the Aopen 700W PSU which i have posted above? Thanks

 

EDIT: Ok, iv added the link to the PSU calculator to my sig!!! Hope it helps.

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Hi guys...could someone tell me if my psu will hold out if i added another 7900gt the 12v rail is 30a and in mbm my rails are +5=5.13 +3=3.33 +12=12.34....my psu is an aerocool aeropower 11 which as up to now been exellent.....Thanks.

 

Edit: using a mm +12=12.34 and +5=5.24

 

Oh well i uess i'll answer it myself after finding this list.

 

Unscrupulous Power Supply Companies

 

Achieve

(Aerocool)

Allied

Aspire

Codegen

Coolmax

Demon

Deer

Devanni.

Dynapower

Eagle

InWin

JustPC

Kingwin

L&C

Linkworld

MGE,

Power-Man

Powmax

Power-Up

Raidmax

Thermaltakes

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If you read the recommendations on this forum thoroughly you'll notice that xxxW is just one side of the coin. Of more importance are Amperages and its stability. That said mean that a quality PSU of 450W with good stable 12V rails will be far better than a 600W overestimated PSU. So 480W is in a way a safer minimum, but still only if it's met with a real quality PSU.

 

I wonder though: you have an Expert so does your PSU actually support it with the right connectors (8-pin)?

 

Overall your setup isn’t very power-hungry, so 450W could be enough.

 

Except the PSU issue, the Expert board will demand some more tweaking of RAM settings before considered stable.

 

You also have a dual core CPU which - in case you're using XP - will work better if you do some adjustments to how the operating system works.

 

Thanks for the great insight. In the manual (my first port of call, since I never heard of DFI-street or anything similar) it never stated really in any way the detailed information found here being required for getting the stuff to work.

 

About the 8-pin connector: A bucket load of blame upon me! By now I have realised that the manual tricked me into believing 4-pin would be sufficient (actually, I feel like an uninformed noob "Oh, well, let's go out by the expert stuff, and you'll be rocking - uhm, no!")

 

However, RAM tweaking I hear for the first time. How do I best do that? I mean which latency + volt values are the offenders and which software would then be the best indicator to see if I am on the right track?

 

Alright, I slowly become aware that the "expert" tag was not just a marketing trick. YET, I don't want to give in, rather I make myself an expert before chicken out.

 

Cheers

 

EDIT: Just realised by posting this question, I am propably hijacking this thread. Well, I open a new thread to keep this one tidy. Cheers

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Hi David i need to know what the to do's and not to do's when choosing how to connect up your PSU of choice. Does it matter what you have connected to what, when there are a string of connectors all on one set of cables......In other words if I wanted to just use the one set of cables and connected a 4x molex onto it and then joined another 4x molex then I could power everything in my case that way and keep the cables tidier....I know this is an extreme example but the reason i ask is because the 6800GT requires power from a molex and i'm sure it is recommended that it should be a mloex connection by itself so I was wondering what the guidelines are for other components.

I've ran out of spare molex connectors and I've only got 1 fan on a molex, 2 cathodes on a molex, 1 dvd writer on a molex, 1 gfx card, 2 hard drives and 1 floppy powered from the psu directly(except for the mobo of course), in other words i've only got 8 things powered from the PSU using molex connectors.

 

So really the only thing i'm worried about is whether i should have my hard drives connected seperately like the gfx card ???

 

To answer my question with a simple yes, should i have the hard-drives getting power from one set of cables and have my gfx card getting power from another set of cables and then just piggy back all the rest (fans,floppy,cathodes)?

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Does the Enermax Liberty 620 Watt PSU have any compatibility issues with the

DFI LanParty UT eXpert NF4 SLI-DR?

 

What do you guys think of this PSU?, ive read quite a few good write ups.

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Hi! Anyone who knows if Seasonic S12 430w will work fine along with my DFI LANParty UT NF4 SLI-DR Expert? It seems like a good psu, but I'm not sure if it will work with my mobo though...

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