changin chipset HS with active HS?

[FuriousGeorge]

i was thinking of replacing the HS on my nfii ultra b with an active hs, like the ones sold induvidually on newegg, or the ones found on nvidia boards (2 that ive owned, at least).

 

is this a good idea? if not, what about putting a fan on top of the hs already there?

[NEOAethyr]

Yeah it's cool, putting a fan on the stock bridge is'nt the best idea unless you have bolted the thing on there and managed to find long enough bolts to reach past the fan.

I did :, but my grandma had to goto 4 diff hadware stores to find the right length and width of the bolts I needed, and they're still a tiny bit short.

 

Other wise you could get some sort of round nut and screw the fan to those, did it once long ago, then pry the round nut into the heatsink.

The thing is doing something like that needs a tiny fan to fit like that, and it's not even worth it, it'll just heat up the north bridge.

 

I have a decent 60mm fan on mine, stock sink, and it still heats it up more then it cools it.

Though it does help in some areas.

 

Best off getting a swiftech north bridge heatsink for it or somehthing if your gonna, they're like $40-50.

 

The real point I guess is though that you don't need anything other then the stock sink, without fan.

You can reach 250mhz fsb in dual channel without extra cooling on it.

[Smoken Joe]

Actualy jut puting one 80mm on the side of the MB is pretty effective. tems in the low 30's if I have the case fans on lmed on high it is in the hig 30s.

[uwackme]

I have a Swiftech 159 on my NB, but I have the DFI on my NF7-S now and with a side fan blowing on NB/DDR/AGP from the door the stock fan works like a charm.

 

If I were to get a sink now, I'd either use the stock with a lap/AS3 treatment of the NB or I'd lap/AS3 using a Thermaltake "NB-1C" copper replacement.

 

If you really want to cool the NB to the max, the "cupping" of the plastic of the chip needs to be addressed. I use 800grit wetdry paper, and sand the NB flat before putting the sink back on. Mind you, all that voids your warranty so its a permanent decision.

[Poisonsnak]

Yeah I like the stock sink myself also. Keep in mind that the case temp sensor gives you the southbridge temp not northbridge.

[NEOAethyr]

It gives you the south bridge temps?

I thaught it was the other way around hehehe.

No wonder I've seen probs at high fsb's when the temp is low lmao.

 

Thanks for that buddy , now I know that adding a north fan does help, maybe it does'nt really heat it up from the cpu exuast?

I dn, but I know it does help at 266 and etc,

 

So it's my sb temps that have been rising lately.......

Damn, maybe it's the 120mm (70-80cfm, I dn remember, was a cheapy) fan that blows on my video card, might be heating up my sb.

Anyways that's something I'll have to look into after I redo my nb, and my cpu stuff one last time.

 

Btw uwackme, why do you reccomend AS3 instead of AS5?

I have not compared the 2 directly agais'nt each other temp wise.

 

I've seen de-mixing with AS3 quite a bit, on everything I've put it on it's de-mixed it's self, sometimes drying up completely.

 

With AS5, I've seen it burn up and dry, also leaves a film I cannot get off my cpu pcb.

I mean, I can't get it off with 99% alco, can't get it off with nail polish remover, can't get it off with oxy acne pads(leaves a film it's self, but cleans off gel better then both nail polish remover and 99% alco).

 

I have noticed AS5 won't burn up if you have it on a mirror finish though.

But it's hard to apply on such a finish lol.

 

I have'nt applied AS3 on a mirror finsih yet though.

 

I still got some....

 

So why do you think AS3 is the way to go?

I'd like to hear it .

[uwackme]

I speak of AS3 in generic terms, which ever one is your fav. I have a big tube of AS3, prolly take a year to use it up. I like AS Ceramique alot, that is what I actually used on my NB.

 

On my 2600+, I mirror polished my Alpha sink, and the amount of AS3 used for the core is so little its barely visible....translucent coat... temps never get past 48C on air at 2.64Ghz. 2000 grit wetsand, then copper polish with fine cloth.

 

Ugh, just priced out a DangerDen watercooling setup.... will cost me $363!!! Need to move to a $110 case too... AMS CF1009 to accomodate the 2x120mm radiator.

 

OCZ520 powerstream is on the way too....$140 Newegg. So $600 to get more speed, but switching to A64 later will only cost me $44 for a new CPU block and I can sell off the AthlonXP Maze4 for $40 prolly.

 

Now if only Superstrain was ready. 3500+ A64Super $280, DFI SLI-DR $240, 4x 512MB Twinmos VX $320, X850XTPE $550....more Ugh.

[Guest Daishi]

uwackme:

 

which DD are you planning on going with? RBX? TDX? Maze?

 

and it MAY all fin in your current case.................i have gotten all mine into a mid-tower. love that lian-li PC-6077, with the modular front end.

[uwackme]

I was looking at the maze4, and the gpu both with brass covers (lucite scares me) and the 2x 120mm size raddy. the raddy makes it too much for this case. I didnt want to get the 1x 120mm and find out it wasn't good enough.

 

Was planning on putting the raddy at the top of the case, at sharp angle, setup as a duct box with the top 2x 5-1/4 drive bays as air inlet, and the top section on back as outlet (I'd cut the opening big). Ill use modder's mesh-hex pattern as grill for intake/exhaust mods, as well as modding the front of the case for 120mm intake down low on front...again modders mesh.

 

That particular case is very mod'able, and is wider and alot taller than normal ATX towers. Illonly have one DVD drive, so the other 5-1/4 bays will be 2x inlets and 1x res. The OCZ will also take inlet air from the raddy "box" at the top. So the motherboard "chamber" will have 120mm inlet, 120mm exhaust (on back) and Ill position an internal 120mm pointing at the AGP(PCIE) and DIMMs area. There will be enough "airspace" over the motherboard area to have the internal fan with sort of a duct, and the water pump, and the curve space for the water lines to run uncramped. Ill have the floppy and IDE HDisk in the fixed "floppy" section, and the 2x raptors will be in a custom cage just behind the 120mm intake. The whole lower HDisk cage comes out of that case, leving tons of room.

 

The only thing I hate is there is a window, I wish they made it WITHOUT a window, Im just going to use sound deadner all over the interior anyway. Maybe I should get 2 and give one BOTH windows and resell.

 

Later transition to the DFI SLI board, A64, 4xTwinmos, X850pcie should be easy after this is all done.

 

Hint to the world, my current system.... Infinity, 2600+(good for 2.64Ghz on air), X800XTPEagp, 2x 512M BH5, Superflower550, 8Xdvd... will be up for grabs as soon as A64Superstrain is available. Prolly for around $1100ish.

[deja100]

ive done a good amount of research on the NB cooling for this board in the last week, mainly because im having some stability issues and my NB is hot as hell right now. im still kind of iffy because there arent as many reviews out there for NB cooling as there is for CPU cooling because aftermarket NB cooling isnt as prevalent right now. and to make it even harder there arent many good arcticles comparing the different NB coolers out there. however after searching for a week i think ive found the best one. the swiftech MCX-159-R. heres item number on newegg: N82E16835108022

 

this one seems to have the best performance. ive already tried taking off the stock NB sink and putting some old AS2 i had on it. it actually seemed to make it worse though than with the stock thermal gum that was on it. i think this happened because i probably didnt apply a thick enough layer on it, and also, AS is designed to bond between metal to metal connections. I dont think it works too well with the NB packaging which i think is silicon? anyway, im going to use this cooler in combination with some arctic ceramique. ive heard a lot of ppl having good results with ceramique on stuff like NB chips. another bonus of this cooler is that it uses screws to mount to the motherboard instead of the spring pins of the stock cooler. the spring pins will only give you so much tension on the NB. with screws you can adjust the tension to get a better fit to the NB and hence better heat conduction. as for the little 40mm fan that comes on it, it probably wont help things as it only pushes 6.9CFM. im probably going to get a 40 to 60mm adapter and put a 60mm delta fan i have on it that pushes about 20CFM. in the end i may not even need it as i have a 80mm case fan blowing directly over the NB. ill see what works best.

 

ill be ordering this sometime this week and installing when i get it. ill post back and let you know how it goes

[NEOAethyr]

The fan sounds nice, 60cfm would rock on the north bridge.

 

If your gonna put gel on the thing, of course you are anyways but...

You gotta squese the thing real good, press on top of while press on the bottem of the board, directly under it.

 

Ok 1st apply either a blotch in the middle, or do that and use something clean and sorta stiff to spread it around.

Then press on it till it come sout the sides.

It should barely do this, it should actualy take amin to do, it'll come to the edges slowly.

 

You espially want to do this right if you're gonna bond it, other wise you'll end up having to much restriction between the sink and the nb.

You need enough to cover the whole thing, but not to much ok?

Not spreadin it works the best, but it's better to doit right then not have enough too.

Hence the reason I spread it, since I got this rectangle like core for the cpu, it's become a habit again.

 

I think ceramic is the best anyways, so I've heard, but I've never baught any myself, need to someday ^^.

[uwackme]

Although I like the 159, I think the NB-1C is actually better. The real issue is the fact the plastic of the NB is cupped with a depression in the middle. So a flat heatsink wont contact the center of the NB without GOOP taking up the slack.

 

Thats why I lap these NF2 NB's now. I take the stock hsink, and use it as a sanding block with 800grit paper and a dab of water. I use masking tape to completely cover the surrounding area, and then sand down the NB till its actually FLAT. This even makes the plastic a little thinner which Im sure helps a bit too. Then just a translucent coating of AS-whatever to make the sink-NB junction solid and presto even the STOCK heatsink is good (providing there is a fan blowing on it from the system).

 

Ive had no performance difference from having the 159's fan installed or not installed...as I have a 120mm side door fan blowing on the AGP/DIMM intersection which puts plenty of air over the NB sink. I have the same setu using the stock sink on my brothers LPUB and same 120mm side fan, no performance difference. Both ways work great. Key above all else is to address the "cupping" of the plastic of the NB itself.