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fred sherbet

DFI Issues

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My spec can be seen in my sig

 

I've had this board for about a month, mostly been very pleasing, except the cold boot issue, which i've been able to solve by resetting immediately after turning the comp on. When it cold boots, the only life is that everything powers up, except the power LED, and the board never posts. Othertimes, i have had an alarm, but no display on screen. This is usually after overclocking.

 

I was tryin to overclock my CPU. Had it stable at 220 x 10. Changed the multiplier to 11. Since then it wouldn't post at all. Power LED stays off, also the light on my wireless mouse reciever remains off. This used to be on, even when the comp was off.

 

I have tried clearing CMOS, different PSU, gfx card and processor, but so far to no avail :(

 

Any ideas what the problem could be, and how to solve it?

 

Thanks very much, Fred

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Power supply might be toast. I had one go teats up on me in much the same way once. I pushed it a little too far while bumping voltages up (it was a cheapo PS, doh!).

 

Do you have access to another power supply? All you need for the test is to connect the leads to the motherboard (no devices need to be connected to the test PS) and see if you get any juice.

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I have already tried another PSU. My usual, Zalman PSU is having problems on the 12v rail atm. It only hits 10.5v. Other rails are fine. The other PSU i tried with is fine.

Could the low voltage have damaged the mobo? How can i tell? (there are no burn marks as i can see)

 

 

I once fried a mobo and processor, since the PSU was sending out wrong voltages and slowly melted everything. If any damage has been done, its only to the mobo, since i have tried the CPU in another board, which was fine.

 

When i have been trying to fix the problem, i have noticed that the CPU and southbridge are both heating up, and therefore powered. Not certain about north bridge. Dunno if that helps.

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BTW Voltages were set to following (i think)

Core: 1.55v

CHIP: 1.7v

RAM: 2.9v

 

FSB at 220

Multiplier at 11 (10 had been stable). This is all i changed when problem arose

 

are there any other BIOS settings it would be useful to know?

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Guest jaco

1,55 volt is definately too low. Won't work.

You're going from 220*10 straight to 220*11 ? wicked :D

My mobile needs about 1.7 vcore to do 2420 Mhz. Try 1,75 vcore , that should be enough.

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...???

You're going from 220*10 straight to 220*11 ? wicked

I would not think it was so 'wicked' since he did not add any cpu voltage nor adjust any bios settings and the end result is failure and likely a bios corruption. Is that the definition of wicked?

 

I thought wicked was boss, hot, slammed, hip, right on, toyota or any other number of phraseology to indicate a good and quick working procedure. He did not have that sort of result. Humh?

 

I got to be out of touch I guess.

 

Sincerely, RGone...

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Guest jaco

I meant to say it's reckless to go from 220*10 straight to 220*11.

Power led off , 4 leds also off? Never experienced such thing. Could be bios corruption as Rgone suggested.

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i've seen lots of mention of 4leds. Where are these to be found?

 

I got a standby power LED, and a DRAM Power LED on main board.

I have a power LED, and a HDD activity LED in the case.

 

At mo standy LED is on aslong as all power cables are connected,

DRAM and HDD light up when power is turned on.

Power LED is never on :(

 

Why is my PS2 connectors normally powerd when the PC is off? (They aren't at the mo btw)

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...here goes!

2x512 GEIL PC3500 CL2

300W Zalman PSU

The DFI sisters which inlcuded the LPb and the UI boards; by and large hate GEIL memory and most of us steer clear of it. A 300 watt powersupply is so marginal as to likely cause problmems in the long run and you must have the 4 square pin P4 adapter plugged in as well > no matter the size of the power supply. You said you tried another power supply but you don't mention the size of it.

 

 

i've seen lots of mention of 4leds. Where are these to be found?
None on the Utra Infinity mother board.

 

except the cold boot issue, which i've been able to solve by resetting immediately after turning the comp on
Likely could have been solved by a flash to the official DFI 6/19 bios from DFI official website. Also that bios is a little more forgiving when you make poor overclocking judgements. Meaning it is not quite so prone to bios corruption which is likely what you have from a failed overclocking attempt.

 

so what's the solution?
That is a many sided answer. Possibles>

1. Hotflash your corrupted bios on another board that uses a similar bios chip.

2. Order a pre-flashed bios savior form Ekitdata and correctly install it and use it to reflash your corrupt bios chip and then have a measure of safety against failed overclocks. NOTE: Ekidata only given as a suggetion as they have for sale preflashed bios saviors. Others your local may have same as well. I live in UsA and know not all the european outlets.

3. Get in touch with DFI support your local area and explain corrupt bios problem and follow their suggestions for 'fix'.

4. Remove all A/c power from the mother board. REmove bathery and jumper CMOS to the clear position and leave over 5 hours or so. Some have to leave at least a day. It varies. No I do not know why! Then remove J8 jumper and re-install battery and place clear CMOS jumper back to the RUN positions and re-connect A/c power and see if the board will boot. If it does enter the bios and on the right side choose load optimized defaults / save and exit and at reboot press DEL and re-enter bios and adjust a 'few' things at a time with a save and exit / reboot and re-enter bios and make some more adjustments until you get back to 220x10 which seemed safe for you. THen get a bios savior or a spare pre-flashed bios chip if you plan on 'practicing' overclocking.

 

I have bios savior and 3 preflashed bios chips as my personal security blanket.

 

That just about covers the majors that should really have come first anyway, beginning with a successful flash to the official 6/19 bios from the DFI website.

 

Sincerely, RGone...

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there is also the "OC jumper" that you could try. My LPB mobo came with the insert that explains it, but I don't OC, so i never read it... and not sure exactly where it is right now...

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