06/19 Fixes Cold-Boot - Please post HERE!

[RGone]

so far and I have no problems that I can see from restarts out of windows XP.

 

I 'did' follow this exact method to totally clear CMOS and get a clean load using the 06/19 from the DFI beta bios site. Not any other 06/19's floating around.

 

Load Optimzed defaults. "I" flashed in Dos using awdflash 8.24F.

A:>awdflash n24id619.bin /cc /cp /cd /sn /py /cks /r and that syntax that has served me sO well since moving to the NF7 nearly 2 years ago and having to abandon it with DFI is now fine again.

 

1. Load Optimized defaults.

2. 8.xx awdflasher.

3. A:>awdflash n24id619.bin /cc /cd /cp /sn /py /cks /r

4. Will reboot and load optimized defaults save and exit.

5. As soon as starts to boot again> turn OFF the computer.

6. Remove A/c power cord.

7. Remove the battery.

8. Move CMOS jumper to clear position.

9. Let sit for no less than 30mins.

10. After 30mins, put battery back in and put CMOS clear to the RUN position and put A/c power back to power supply.

11. Turn power on and boot to bios and change only about 4 items at a time>save and exit. As it reboots go back and change a few more items until you get "your" settings made and also as you 'ease' upwards to your normal speed. Changing and saving a few items at a time is recommended for all boards with NF2 chipset.

12. If you change all the settings in bios at "one" time you may have to hit the reset button after coming out of bios save and exit. Do it. Keep saving and exitting as I said until you get back to your normal settings.

13. Now IF BH-5 try these settings to get you in the ball park if 2x256. 11, 2, 2, 2, Cas2.0 11, 15, E, E, F, ON, 5, 4, 6, 3, 3, 4, 5.

 

I am using Vcore 1.95, Vagp1.7, Vdd, 1.8 and Vmem of 3.3V at 251x10.5 on my borrowed BH-5 and completing 3drmark2k1 at that speed for the first time. 3.7Omega soft-mod.

 

NOTE: you WILL have to use the 5, 4, 6, 3, 3, 4, and 5 settings with this bios to GET 3dmark2k1 to finish. This bios will require that you *find* your personal settings and use them.

 

Then go and hammer the P out of it because it holds up and if you get too far out in left field it will just "reboot" and you set back to a less aggressive setting and go 'on' about your business. It can take a lot of hammering. Been doing it for about 20 hours straight now.

 

Some of you guys that know what you are doing and flash to 'less' than BH-5 or with 2x512 can flash and report back good complete 'ball park' settings and I think most will be able to run well without cold boot=no post problems and most likely warm restarts from windowsXP are not a problem with me; 'now'.

 

No I cannot give you any more idea of the settings other than these 'ballpark' ones for 2x256 BH-5. That is what I am testing with.

 

So far it is a good flasher using what 'i' used and it works, "now" because I totally and completely cleared the CMOS. When I did not 'totally' clear the CMOS> it still gave me some cold boot issues.

 

Try it you might like it.

 

OK for the hot dogs that can suffer with cold booting you may still find one of your favorites to be a little better for your benching. But it appears that *now* every single memory timing must be utilized to "score".

 

So there it is. Finally I can cold start this UI in my possession and beat the ever-loving P out of it and just go back in the bios and change what I want doing 3 or 4 items at a time and it works like a computer mobo so far. I will report if I find any flaws.

 

Sincerely, RGone...

 

 

AG Edit: we would like EVERYONE'S feedback on this bios. This bios is about to become official and we have exactly one week to give DFI-TW feedback to make sure it is proper bios, does what it is supposed to do, and doesn't raise any more issues (or worse issues!).

 

Please post your results here. If you flashed in a different way than RG's procedure, please tell us how you went about flashing this bios.

 

Again, it is IMPORTANT that you let us have feedback on this bios. If there's something that needs changing then we have to let TW know.

 

Things not to mention: this is not intended to give you more Mhz. You should be able to have the same overclock as before, but again, this bios was not written to give you more overclock. It WAS written to fix the boot issues and such.

 

Please dont ask for any new features. The important part of this bios is that it fixes cold boots, warm boots, no boots etc, and does it without any wire mods, voltage mods etc. This bios really needs to get official status as it has been since November 27, 2003 that we've had an official bios.

 

Thank you for any feedback you can provide us!!!

 

Angry_Games

[anchorman]

Nice read, good information that I will be using, I don't have the cold boot issue but I want to run 6/19 on RD1 to test her out, 5/5 works good for me but I wanna see what 6/19 can do for me

[Oldfaht]

Oh Yeah, WarMods out, Boot, boot, boot to my heart's content!

Followed a proceedure very close to what RG laid out, flashed twice just for good measure, long cmos clear, brought her back up to speed with small increments. Yep, worked without a hitch!

 

Thanks RG, for the ballpark settings, Now I can start to beat the P out of this HO some MO with my new 2600:nod:

 

Kudos to all who had a hand for getting this thing together!

 

Jes, just don't know how to behave without the anxiety attacks whenever I want to start this thing up. But I guess I'll learn to deal with it....hehehehe.....As I am sure, a whole lot of others will too!

 

Happy Clocking.............

[momuchi]

me to. 6/19 fix my coldboot...

[AlvoMod]

Originally posted by momuchi

me to. 6/19 fix my coldboot...

and you used the same procedure that rgone?

[soundx98]

RGone, have to agree with your post. And forget about my cell phone conversation stating that I couldn't get it back to 250x10. On hour 3 of Prime at 250x10, 3D01 just under 20K, Sandra CPU over 10K, with bandwidth down just slightly.

 

I loaded optimized defaults and then cleared CMOS for an hour.

Flashed with Winflash (twice with DMI and Clear CMOS checked).

OPTIMZED DEFAULTS and then cleared CMOS and pulled Battery for three hours.

 

If those setting are too far out of whack with my BH-5 it doesn't boot. (keeps trying though). Think we got a winner here.

 

[bimg]http://premium.uploadit.org/soundx98/250x10.JPG[/bimg]

[Angry_Games]

please re-read RG's first post as I have added to it and am asking for everyone's feedback on this bios.

[showy]

Copied from my other post.

 

I decided to finally join after seeing AG's comment here about DFI wanting feedback on this BIOS in hope to get it upgraded to OFFICIAL status instead of just another Beta from a long line of Betas......

 

 

Luckily I never had the cold boot issues that RGone has been fighting since the dawn of time, which is just has well since the occasional hour long fight with a warm boot problem has left me ready just to shoot it and put it out of my misery. Now thankfully that seems to be overwith........finally! I've been rebooting like crazy testing mem timings all day long and not one single little glitch posting at all.

 

Also, I'm now finally able to break throught the 230 Mhz FSB brick wall that I was hitting with CPC enabled. I could get my board to 245 Mhz perfectly stable and to 250 Mhz on good days with it off. But now, low and behold, I've been running Prime for the last 3 hours or so at 250 Mhz with CPC enabled!

 

My ram is Mushkin PC3200 Special 2-2-2 running at the following,

11-2-2-2-2.0, 9-13, E, E, F, On, 5-4-6-3-3-4-5, 4, 2, 4, 2, 4, 2, @ 3.3v

 

Not too bad for a BH-6 chip that was only "officialy" rated for PC2700 speeds. So needless to say I've been really pleased with this BIOS release.

[Winston]

Originally posted by RGone

Load Optimzed defaults. "I" dos flashed using awdflash 8.24F.

A:>awdflash n24id619.bin /cc /cp /cd /sn /py /cks /r and that syntax that has served me sO well since moving to the NF7 nearly 2 years ago and having to abandon it with DFI is now fine again.

 

1. Load Optimized defaults.

2. 8.xx awdflasher.

3. A:>awdflash n24id619.bin /cc /cd /cp /sn /py /cks /r

4. Will reboot and load optimized defaults save and exit.

5. As soon as starts to boot again> turn OFF the computer.

6. Remove A/c power cord.

7. Remove the battery.

8. Move CMOS jumper to clear position.

9. Let sit for no less than 30mins.

10. After 30mins, put battery back in and put CMOS clear to the RUN position and put A/c power back to power supply.

11. Turn power on and boot to bios and change only about 4 items at a time>save and exit. As it reboots go back and change a few more items until you get "your" settings made and also as you 'ease' upwards to your normal speed. Changing and saving a few items at a time is recommended for all boards with NF2 chipset.

12. If you change all the settings in bios at "one" time you may have to hit the reset button after coming out of bios save and exit. Do it. Keep saving and exitting as I said until you get back to your normal settings.

13. Now IF BH-5 try these settings to get you in the ball park if 2x256. 11, 2, 2, 2, Cas2.0 11, 15, E, E, F, ON, 5, 4, 6, 3, 3, 4, 5.

 

 

Sorry for the long post but on the DFI site it specifies that if using the NFII chipset then not to use the /F instruction due to LAN trouble?

 

Any advice on this or should I use it also?

[thefake007]

Per AG's request, I am reposting here.

 

Before, when I was using the official bios, I would get sirens upon reboots from windows about 1/3 of the time. Now that I have the official bios, I have not received the siren as frequently, but I have received it once. Seeing as how I only flashed today, its at about 1/10 right now, but still that 1 may indicate the problem is still there. I don't know if my "warm boot problem" is the same as everyone elses since I am a noob, but it goes like this:

 

1. restart windows

2. before anything comes up on screen siren

3. If you push reset button sirens continue

4. Sirens stop if you unplug AC power cord (duh)

5. Computer boots fine immediately after cord is plugged back in

 

That is my "warm boot" problem.

[Popcicle]

Using the /f switch will erase the LAN MAC address. It

can be re-entered manually if that should happen. MAC

address is located on a sticker on the AGP slot.

 

Best just to drop the /f switch and use the remainder of

the syntax for an awdflash.

 

I'm in the middle of a second flash to 6/19 with awdflash

and trying to get this version to play properly.

 

Be Back.

 

 

Pops.

[xenolith]

Originally posted by RGone

3. A:>awdflash n24id619.bin /cc /cd /cp /sn /py /cks /r /f

 

What about the /tiny switch? Do you advise not using it with the 6/19? I'm too afraid to not use it, since I got a bad flash once when I left it out.