Lanparty A Warm boot question..

[Cainfoo]

I have had my Lanparty A+ for a couple months now. I love this board now that I have gotten to know it. Takes a while to get to know it. Anyways, Lately I have been having MUCHO trouble with reboots. The board will cold boot 100% of the time. But after it has been running for a while if I need to reboot for some reason I get the blank screen "No Post" situation. I can use the insert key to get it to boot but that gets me a boot of 1150 MHZ. If I back my FSB of by 5 MHZ then it will boot and then I can immediately reboot and put the 5 MHz back and it will then start. I have tried to push reset when it gives me no post but that doesn't work. I have tried shutting it down and disconnecting the power and that doesn't work. Is there any mod that helps with the warm boot issue?? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Kevin

PS It is nice to have found Rgone and AG again. I followed you guys at AMDMB forums. I was gone for a couple weeks and when I came back I read that you both had departed. Glad to have found you both. You both have helped me over some bumps in the DFI road in the past. Great work to you both!

[Angry_Games]

this is an odd one Cain as I have had this EXACT same problem on the magical DLT3C JIUHB XP1700 on this board.

 

how did I solve it?

 

well...you mebbe wont like this answer but I solved it by just running it as normal lol. Somehow, after two weeks of driving me insane and me yelling at TW to fix it, it just stopped doing it...dont ask me how, and no, this isn't really a helpful answer...but it just went away.

 

then it did it with a magical DLT3C JIUHB XP1800. about a week of it at 220x10, cold boot 100% but hitting reset would get it to boot...then telling Windows to restart would give me the blank screen, 4 LED's lit...hitting reset would get it booting back. Once in a while I had to use the INS trick to get it to boot at fail-safes like you.

 

its been so long since i've had the LPA up and running that I think I will let RG take a crack at this for a bit as he has the board also now hehe (and doesnt have 7 DFI rigs taking up all his cases, psu's, hdd's etc).

 

If he can't I will try but I dont have a 2600 (btw, 200x11.5 is pretty high clock on a locked chip...have you tried giving it a bit more vcore voltage?), and I dont have your exact Corsair (but i do have TwinX1024LL 3200). Doesn't mean we wont try and figure it out though.

 

also list for us what voltages you have on everything else

[RGone]

your symptoms will be difficult as AG says.

 

I see a couple of things that really give me pause and some concern.

 

1. You say Enermax 431 and that is the older model that is not nearly as stout on the +12V rail as the later version 465 which Enermax came with due to so many complaints and mods made to the original 431 to make it hold the +12V up high enough.

 

2. I count 7 combined hard drives and Optical devices in your signature. If that is for real; then I would presume the +12V would be very low on your system. Those 7 devices do not take into account any fans in the system drawing on the +12V rail.

 

3. 11.5x200 is ~2300 mhz or a 400mhz overclock and I am with AG on the fact that 1.8Vcore is low in my mind; especially in a restart condition where the cpu is hot and more resistive already.

 

4. You don't mention the voltage you apply to the memory either. But I think you say they are "pro" sticks which in the Corsair line now means they have a row of LED's across the top which is another current draw. I would expect you would be needing to give them the max voltage or nearly so when wishing to restart them warm as well.

 

Strangely upon looking back at the 4 points above; everyone of them is voltage related. It could be so.

 

I had to mod my older Enermax 431, on the +12V rail to make it put out enough +12V to hold my NF7 when I first swapped over to the NF2 chipset styled motherboards so I know the older 431's can be marginal, especially when pushed ( or loaded ) as I was doing on my NF7. I now use that same Enermax to power a UI with 3 hard drives, 2 optical devices, 1 floppy drive and I think you see my thoughts.

 

These points are or would be very high on my list of things to look into. Unplug some of the +12V devices and raise the Vcore and memory voltages and see if the warm restart problem is either fixed or the symptoms change. Doing such as I suggest would be the first things I would do if your computer were actually setup on my bench.

 

Sincerely, RGone...

[Cainfoo]

Thanks for your quick response. A couple more things that come to mind after reading both your posts. First I checked MBM5 for high and low of the 12+ Rail. It shows 11.61 to 11.73. Yes I would say a little low. Something else with voltage I was wondering. The -12 railis showing -12.93 to -13.18. Can this also be a problem. Can the mismatch between +12 and -12 be a problem. In responce to your post Rgone. Yes it is alot of IDE devices and in addition to all the items listed there are 3 80 mm case fans, I added a cooler on the NB and it has 3 cold cathode lights. I think temp might also be an issue. Looking back it seems the days I have had issues, it has been warmer. Today it is cooler and I have tried several reboots and no problems at all. Right now the puter is running about 8 degrees F cooler than yesterday. It does get a little warm in this room. It is small and I have my DFI, an Abit AN7 overclocked and my wifes Asus A7V333 all in here and commonly all running. When I got this board, 2 months ago, it was alot cooler. We had a cool spring this year and now we are starting to get the summer temps. In responce to your question about the processor, yes I have tried more voltage. No matter what I try 202 MHz is unstable but 200 MHz will run all day without a hitch. Except for this reboot issue of course. And like I said before if I drop the clock to 195 MHZ it will go back to rebooting proper. My other computer sitting right next to me, AN7 with 2600+ Barton will only do 195 MHz Stable @ 1.9 Vcore. But never any cold or warm boot issues. As far as ram I have it maxed at 2.8 volts. Is there a mod for this board to get more than 2.8. I didn't think it would need more since I can't get past 200 MHz which is actually stock speed for this ram. But I am looking into 2 Mobile procs for these 2 boards so I wil be looking to push the ram further in the future. As far as mobile procs is there a speed that seems to OC better than other (2400, 2500, 2600). And will my LPA recognize it properly. I also see in my Sig. I forgot to list my video card it is a GF FX 5200 Ultra which I guess could be a good draw on the 12v rail. Thanks again and any additional thoughts would be great.

Kevin

[Angry_Games]

i see you have a TT Volcano7 as your cpu heatsink. Have you thought of trying something different (better)? I would try the Thermalright ALX-800U clip on. I have had many a TT Volcano 6,7, 9 etc. All were crap. Not trying to be mean at all dont think that. But try a diff heatsink if its getting warm and you are thinking it might be temps as part of the problem.

 

₪₪₪₪, pm me and I will send you a decent sink that will fit the LPA to test if you want. If you like it, you can pay me fair market value (ie: its brand new and never been used so whatever the cheapest price is at major online vendor), or you can send it back and get your own (we'll help you find the best for the least amount of $).

 

cant say this is the problem, but my eyes keep coming back to that TT VOlcano7 heatsink...

 

edit: alexia, please do something about this dratted curse filter

[Cainfoo]

I would have to agree with you on that one also. The HSF I had prior to my Tt Volcano 7+'s, have one on DFI and AN7, was a Tt Volcano 9. Worked well with lower XP's. 2100+ 2400+. But when I got the 2600+, my idle temps on my Asus A7V333 were about 143 f at stock speeds. So i got the 7+ and that helped. Then shortly there after I got the LPA and AN7 and started to overclock and now I am running a little warmer than I would like. I have been looking at the SLK 800 and 900. I have read they are the best think next to water. But yes I would like to take you up on your offer. I will PM you, hope I do it right Never PM'd before. I was wondering is it the SLK 800 you mentioned that you have available? Oh yes and by the way, I did bump my Vcore up to 1.9 to see if it would help with reboot problem. With that increase I am idle at 130 f. Thanks for all your help! you guys are great!

Kevin

[RGone]

...oh you can get all sorts of ideas about HSF combos and some are really overkill. I think AG was talking about an ALX800 that he would let your try and of course he will say for sure. But it is the fan that makes the most differnece on air. Get the most CFM fan that fits and other than a some more "sound" even an ALX800 will do fine. I have a 86cfm fan on an old SK700 and it rarely sees 47C wide open. So you can spend a lot for not a lot more. Course if you got it flaunt it.

 

Sincerely, RGone...

[Cainfoo]

Thanks Rgone...I guess I need to pay attention to what I read. AG's post said ALX800. But I guess my brain was thinking SLK800. As long as it will be more suitable to my setup I'm all for it. Rgone, I really enjoy reading your posts. Thanks again for your help!

Kevin

[Angry_Games]

sent you pm...it is an ALX-800. All aluminum. Jim Wei @ Thermalright states that its design is as good as the bolt-on SLK-800 so should provide similar temps, even being aluminum heh. I've never actually taken them out of the box to look at, and even sent one + a fan to Frank in the office so he could see what they were and give Randy/Allen a chance to play with it.

 

if you are going to buy a heatsink, I would honestly look into spending just a lil more for the SLK-947U, or teh SP-97. Any Thermalright bolt-on cooler is going to require the extra Neo Backplate kit so it wont destroy the IC's around the mounting holes...but SVC has them for $5.99 (a good deal considering that without it, and you ruin the board, its a voided warranty lol). Plus the neo backplate is superior to the original mount.

 

let me take a quick look around the sites to see exactly what is the best deal for the money. As RG states, the fan is just as important as the cooler. I suggested in my PM a Thermaltake Smartfan2 80mm adjustable, and I also suggest an Enermax 92mm adjustable (they wont work on the smaller sinks, only hte SLK900, 947, SP-97 etc).

 

anyway, let me shop around (have to shop for momma a new monitor) and ill post back.

[Angry_Games]

Thermalright SK-700 @ $20.99 (sink only)

 

Thermalright ALX-800 @ $15.99 this is more than what I paid for them, I think i bought mine for $10-$12 on sale. Have to still look through the junk pile to see how many i have left to determine if I can just sell one to you Its all aluminum, and supposed to be great, but have not tested one yet (still love my SK-7's too much hehe). Should be same or better as RG's SK-700.

 

 

after looking through both SVC, Case-mod, and Newegg, these are the best deals. Best I suppose to just let me send you the ALX-800 and try it out for yourself. I always watch these 3 sites for specials and when I see something great for your clip-on socket come up for sale ill just demand that you get one and send me mine back hehe. I'll post a bit more later got to get on some other thing right now =)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

im a dumbass...just remembered you dont have mounting holes around your socket on the LPA...ignore this but keep in mind in case you get an LPB/INF hehe)

 

BEST DEAL!!! Thermalright SLK-947U (sink only) @ $19.99 someone has this in the off-topic section as a special also. I have 4 of these and they truly are great!

 

Thermalright Neo Backplate kit for bolt-on Thermalright heatsinks @ $5.99

this is a must for any SLK/SP bolt on cooler on a DFI board.