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I don't know, but the 120mm fan says 12v .27amps. So there is no way from pushing it from 1200rpm to 2000rpm? I got another fan that's still in the box that takes 12v .38amps 2000rpm. So the wires are connected fine, the fan just won't allow it, right? You know what i'm trying to do is set the 120mm fans (intake and exhaust) from 1200rpm to 2000rpm, but i don't think they will run that fast or could it, and how?

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I don't know, but the 120mm fan says 12v .27amps. So there is no way from pushing it from 1200rpm to 2000rpm? I got another fan that's still in the box that takes 12v .38amps 2000rpm. So the wires are connected fine, the fan just won't allow it, right? You know what i'm trying to do is set the 120mm fans (intake and exhaust) from 1200rpm to 2000rpm, but i don't think they will run that fast or could it, and how?

 

Well, whatever speed it runs at on your PSU's maximum voltage is as high as you're going to get it I'm afraid.

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That's a slick rig right there. :drool:

 

cheers :D :cool: It's taken a bit of effort to get it finished. :sweat:

 

BTW It appears that MBM reads a couple (approx 4 degrees) lower for the Expert(Venus) board than it read on the SLI-DR, but the temp in the PC Health check of the BIOS on both motherboards appeared to be correct.

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That's one awesome case right there. What I love about it is that it's a real utilitarian design, kind of like a cross between a server and a modded desktop.

 

But it's effen huge .. it looks neat but it would need it's own postcode ;)

 

btw, what did you make it out of exactly?

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Wire gauge has nothing to do with volts; it has to do with the amps. Smaller wire gauges don't require more current to "push it through"; what happens is smaller gauge wires can't tolerate as much current (amps) because there isn't enough conductive mass to distribute the current evenly, and the wire begins to dissipate excess current as heat. This is called resistance. If the wire's not getting hot then there isn't enough resistance to cause a problem. I doubt that tiny motor could ever draw enough current to cause a problem. In fact it's almost impossible. But just to make sure, is the wire getting hot?

 

Kind of true .. :) the wire resistance won't change for the same length and differing thicknesses ... what will change is the dissipated power from increased current flowing through the same resistive load. A wire might handle 5A as it's thickness allows it to dissipate the power generated (in heat) from the resistance in the wire. You double the current then you are doubling the power generated through resostive loss in the wire (the resistance of the wire has not changed significiantly the current has!!) You were right up until the comment "If the wire's not getting hot then there isn't enough resistance to cause a problem." This should read "If the wire's not getting hot then there isn't enough current to cause a problem."

 

;) :angel:

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7v: red to yellow and black to red. Connecting the fan's ground to a hot wire seems counterintuitive to me, but apparently it works.

 

It works because Voltage is also known as "Potential Difference" Earth or 0v is purely relative to your reference.. :) you get 7v because the 5v is your fan negative (most cases it is ground or earth but not this one) and 12v is your posative the potential difference then for current to flow is 12v-5v which =7v potential for current to flow.

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I don't know, but the 120mm fan says 12v .27amps. So there is no way from pushing it from 1200rpm to 2000rpm? I got another fan that's still in the box that takes 12v .38amps 2000rpm. So the wires are connected fine, the fan just won't allow it, right? You know what i'm trying to do is set the 120mm fans (intake and exhaust) from 1200rpm to 2000rpm, but i don't think they will run that fast or could it, and how?

 

In that case the only way to increase RPM is to increase voltage which could kill the fan.

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If the fan came 12v and it's still only 1200 RPM, well you can push it further by splitting the red or yellow wire from the fan and attaching it to both the red and yellow from the molex. That should theoretically give you 17v. But note that I've never done this, and I can't guarantee that it won't fry your PSU, so it's better to wait and see if someone esle concurs with this.

 

 

Er never do this... please .. this will cause you a world of hurt, dead PSU, possibly motherboard and anything else that is electrical in the computer .. if you touch the 12v to the 5v it is the same as shorting out the rails. not a good idea.

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But it's effen huge .. it looks neat but it would need it's own postcode

 

btw, what did you make it out of exactly

 

the main frame is made out of square all tubing called qubelok can get in melbourne comes in 6metre lengths and just cut it to size then get the nylon joiners and hammer them into place the rest is ally angle from the suppliers that i got the tubing and perspex

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the main frame is made out of square all tubing called qubelok can get in melbourne comes in 6metre lengths and just cut it to size then get the nylon joiners and hammer them into place the rest is ally angle from the suppliers that i got the tubing and perspex

 

How thick is the perspex?? That stuff is damned heavy, I made the rear wall of my Sub Box in the car out of 12mm perspex and it was not light :D

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