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Watercooling Information & Suggestions

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How much would it cost for a simple initial set up. Say a DTek CPU block, Swiftech Pump, resevoir (are any better than others?), Thermochill rad, tubing, and whatever else I need?

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How much would it cost for a simple initial set up. Say a DTek CPU block, Swiftech Pump, resevoir (are any better than others?), Thermochill rad, tubing, and whatever else I need?

 

Sorry I didn't reply sooner; just joined the staff of another forum so that's kept me busy.

 

Anyways,

D-Tek Fuzion V2 - $64.99

LAING D5 Vario aka Swiftech MCP-655 - $84.99

Swiftech Micro Res - $19.95 (major differences between reservoirs is size/style but no real functional differences)

Thermochill PA 120.2 - $119.95 or Black Ice GTX 240 - $99.95 or Swiftech MCR-220 - $46.99

7/16" ID MasterKleer - $0.59/ft or 1/2" ID Feser Tube UV Red, Blue, Green - $2.75/ft -- you'll most likely need ~10ft

Biocide - $2.75

Hose Clamps - $0.60 ea 1 per barb = 8; I personally just use zip ties.

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Sorry I didn't reply sooner; just joined the staff of another forum so that's kept me busy.

 

Anyways,

D-Tek Fuzion V2 - $64.99

LAING D5 Vario aka Swiftech MCP-655 - $84.99

Swiftech Micro Res - $19.95 (major differences between reservoirs is size/style but no real functional differences)

Thermochill PA 120.2 - $119.95 or Black Ice GTX 240 - $99.95 or Swiftech MCR-220 - $46.99

7/16" ID MasterKleer - $0.59/ft or 1/2" ID Feser Tube UV Red, Blue, Green - $2.75/ft -- you'll most likely need ~10ft

Biocide - $2.75

Hose Clamps - $0.60 ea 1 per barb = 8; I personally just use zip ties.

 

what fans would you all recommend for the rad? I'm looking for the best dba/cfm ratio i guess. Noise drives me insane! why I'm switching to water in the first place

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what fans would you all recommend for the rad? I'm looking for the best dba/cfm ratio i guess. Noise drives me insane! why I'm switching to water in the first place

 

 

With the Thermochill rads, a medium CFM fan performs very well, a popular choice is the Yate Loon medium CFM vertically mounted due to sleeve bearing issues (Yate Loon D12SM-12 or the D12SH-12 undervolted ) fans from Petras. You can find YL fans with similar model numbers from other sites cheaper, but there seems to be a difference in the fans Petra's Tech Shop sells. They are a bit more expensive, but if performance and noise matters, spend a bit more. Zalman ZM-F3 is also becoming a popular choice and might be cheaper than some of the YL's. You also might want to look at some of the Scythe and Noctuna fans.

 

The black ice and swiftech rads tend to benefit from higher CFM fans IIRC, but it has been months since I looked...bought my MCR-320 QP and forgot about it.

 

Hah, I was all into to the less noise before i started watercooling, now I am running 4x as many fans as before. :)

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im trying to mount my 3x120mm radiator somewhere, i dont care if its on , on around it as long as i can have it safe and secure im good, also i want to installa ysplitter for fill/bleeding purposes, any suggestions radorill

 

071220082135.jpg

 

i used to have it on top, but when i put my DD dual resv. in and all the fans onto my rad i took it down because it sitting on top made it hard to bleed..

 

020720082102.jpg

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Part of the reason why it takes longer to bleed may be due to the actual reservopir design. It looks like you used to have the Swiftech Micro Res; in that res the baffle was designed to aid in separating the air bubbles out of the main flow of fluid to speed up the bleeding process.

 

There shouldn't really be any issues with having the rad on top of the case; it does sometimes help to move the case around a bit to help the bubbles purge through to the res. The other alternative, which may or may not help, would be to hang the RAD on the rear of the case instead of on top.

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would have my radiator in a mini fridge be too cold and cause condensation? I have a spare fridge and seems like a good idea. Wonder if the heat from my blocks and cold from fridge would balance out.

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A fridge may or may not be able to handle the thermal load of the components in a cooling loop; they are primarily designed to maintain a setpoint temperature.

 

Condensation on the tubing is only an issue if the temp on the outside surface of the tubing exposed to the air is lower than the ambient wet-bulb temperature or dew-point (based on the ambient room temperature and relative humidity). The easiest way of protecting against condensation is to put some tube/pipe insulation around the tubing.

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would have my radiator in a mini fridge be too cold and cause condensation? I have a spare fridge and seems like a good idea. Wonder if the heat from my blocks and cold from fridge would balance out.

as long as you have fans on the rad it should be able to reduce the temps signifantly. condensation is likely due to the lower coolant temps unless your a/c is really cold but if thats the case there wouldnt be much point in sticking your rad in a fridge :lol: just be sure to wrap the tubing with insulation if you decide to go forward with it you can get insulation wrap at home depot or lowes or any other hardware/home improvemnt store.

look herean article i saw where the entire pc was built inside a mini fridge

Edited by OCrookie

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what do you think of this product?

 

NorthQ 3580 Siberian Tiger Universal Liquid CPU Cooler

 

Typically the all in one H2O kits perform about the same as a good heatpipe cooler; I personally would rather opt for a Swiftech H2O-220 before purchasing a product from a company I hadn't heard of before, particularly since Swiftech is know for producing quality components that perform quite well.

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