Jump to content
radodrill

Watercooling Information & Suggestions

Recommended Posts

With the Thermochill rads, a medium CFM fan performs very well, a popular choice is the Yate Loon medium CFM vertically mounted due to sleeve bearing issues (Yate Loon D12SM-12 or the D12SH-12 undervolted ) fans from Petras. You can find YL fans with similar model numbers from other sites cheaper, but there seems to be a difference in the fans Petra's Tech Shop sells. They are a bit more expensive, but if performance and noise matters, spend a bit more. Zalman ZM-F3 is also becoming a popular choice and might be cheaper than some of the YL's. You also might want to look at some of the Scythe and Noctuna fans.

 

The black ice and swiftech rads tend to benefit from higher CFM fans IIRC, but it has been months since I looked...bought my MCR-320 QP and forgot about it.

 

Hah, I was all into to the less noise before i started watercooling, now I am running 4x as many fans as before. :)

Hey hows it going. Ive got a question, i am planing on buying a swiftech rad the one that has two 120mm fans, ive got two scythe 3000 ultra kaze 120x38mm 133.60 cfm fans that i had in another case. I was wanting to know if these would be good fans for the swiftech rad. I dont care about the noise, i know they are loud, im more interested in removing heat. If not what would be a good rad. for these fans. Thanks for any info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey hows it going. Ive got a question, i am planing on buying a swiftech rad the one that has two 120mm fans, ive got two scythe 3000 ultra kaze 120x38mm 133.60 cfm fans that i had in another case. I was wanting to know if these would be good fans for the swiftech rad. I dont care about the noise, i know they are loud, im more interested in removing heat. If not what would be a good rad. for these fans. Thanks for any info.

 

Those fans should be OK; just I'd suggest using a shroud between the fans and the rad ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the info, would you have them pushing air through the rad, or pulling it though.

 

I don't think there's a major performance difference (pull might have a slight advantage) so in realiy it comes down to space and how it fits best; if you fave enough room, you could even have a push & pull configuration with fans on each side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I don't think there's a major performance difference (pull might have a slight advantage) so in realiy it comes down to space and how it fits best; if you fave enough room, you could even have a push & pull configuration with fans on each side.

Im going to mount it on the back, no room in a antec 900, i have seen some mounted in the hard drive bays but it didnt look right to me. I wanted to put the fans so they pull, and get a nice kick plate for the fans.

Edited by crazy8s846

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey, what is the difference between the D-Tek Fuzion v1 and v2? which would you choose for a Q9450

 

The primary difference is a redesigned hold-down/retention mechanism. Also, the top is somewhat different and there may be a minor performance boost. Either one is fine for a Q9450; just be sure the radiator is able to extract the heat of the CPU from the water (I would never recommend less than a 240mm rad).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And don't forget to add the quad nozzle kit for the Q9450.

 

 

 

@Rado: This is a awesome thread you put together here, I'll add it to my sig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What are some of the solution you guys have for water cooling leaks? I have seen non-conductive coolants, are there others? Leaks happen I'm looking for ways to minimize damage.

 

"Non-conductive" coolants aren't all they're cracked up to be; if it drops onto a component with some dust on it the dust will go into solution in the coolant and make the coolant conductive. The same is true for water; pure distilled water is not conductive, but as soon as impurities get in it it becomes conductive.

 

The best thing to do is to be sure that all the tube to barb connections are secure and if necessary use a bit of Teflon tape on the threads of the barbs to make sure they seal correctly. If you take those precautions you shouldn't have any leaks unless you puncture a radiator with a screw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Any ideas for a stand alone setup for 2 8800 GTX in Sli in my sig rig ?

 

 

Currently Petra's Tech has the D4 pump on sale for $29.95

 

I'm not sure if you'd want to go full-cover on the GPUs or not; for core only I'd suggest the Swiftech MCW-60 with RAMsinks (Swiftech makes a pack with all the sinks for the 8800GTX). I personally like the look of the full-cover blocks (they also allow cleaner tube routing) and either the EK blocks or the DangerDen blocks would be a good choice; I hear that the EK block has a slight performance advantage over the DD block. FWIW, I'm currently running a pair of DD 8800GTX blocks and they do an excellent job of cooling the cards (idle temps dropped 20C).

 

You should probably be fine with a 240mm radiator; but if you have the room, I personally would probably step up to a 360mm rad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×