road-runner Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 I think the anti freeze or additive is going to make it conductive anyway.. :rolleyes: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overclocker16 Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 You're shooting yourself in the foot if your rig ever springs a leak. Fluid inside WC systems should be changed regularly so that it doesn't collect particles(metal particles from the pump, organic growth, etc) which will permit electric current from traveling through it. It's worth spending 30 minutes every month(or whenever you have the time) changing the fluid so it doesn't kill your parts if it leaks. No matter what you do it's going to be conductive lol so really it doesn't bother me. It doesn't get moved, I put it together, I know it won't spring a leak. And ., if it does...well it's no ones fault but mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardnrg Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 You're shooting yourself in the foot if your rig ever springs a leak. Fluid inside WC systems should be changed regularly so that it doesn't collect particles(metal particles from the pump, organic growth, etc) which will permit electric current from traveling through it. It's worth spending 30 minutes every month(or whenever you have the time) changing the fluid so it doesn't kill your parts if it leaks. erm... do you even have watercooling? i've been using the same fluid (deionised water + valvoline zerex + UV reactive "blue revealing") for around a year... you don't need to change it every month lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verran Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 You're shooting yourself in the foot if your rig ever springs a leak. Fluid inside WC systems should be changed regularly so that it doesn't collect particles(metal particles from the pump, organic growth, etc) which will permit electric current from traveling through it. It's worth spending 30 minutes every month(or whenever you have the time) changing the fluid so it doesn't kill your parts if it leaks. Year and a half. No leaks, no fluid changes. Changing fluid every month is a waste of time, as are those "non-conductive" goo's like Fluid XP. Just use water and a bit of coolant and you're all set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trey Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 never EVER use that Fluid XP .. i hate that stuff. thought it was a good idea at first and even though you can pour it on a running computer and it wont do anything, doesnt mean it wont clog up your WC setup and defeat the purpose of cooling in the first place. i put that stuff in my system and after about a week, all my tubes had turned foggy and little white flakes developed in the tubes. plus, that stuff is supposed to run hotter than deionized water. ideally, use deionized water with water wetter or antialgae. using deionized water with antifreeze wont do anything for you. alll antifreeze does is lower the freezing point of liquid. antifreeze is meant to be used in car engines where the ambient temperature is below freezing. im gonna take a wild guess and say you dont live in siberia. even if you did, a computer running at 50C would be more than enough to cancel the effects of ambient... like verran said, if you have a solid setup and make sure you check before leaks BEFORE installed the setup, you shouldnt have any problems with leaks. before you install your setup into your computer, run the setup outside of your computer. i had mine running nonstop on newspaper on my kitchen floor for about 3 days before i installed. that was last fall. no leaks yet for me.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
road-runner Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 I am using this and this with distilled water. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardnrg Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 using deionized water with antifreeze wont do anything for you. alll antifreeze does is lower the freezing point of liquid. antifreeze is meant to be used in car engines where the ambient temperature is below freezing. every single antifreeze product I've seen acts as an anti-algae and anti-corrosion(rust) additive... almost all of them also work just as well in the summer too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trey Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 every single antifreeze product I've seen acts as an anti-algae and anti-corrosion(rust) additive... almost all of them also work just as well in the summer too oh dang, nevermind my ranting then =D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleeble Posted August 1, 2007 Posted August 1, 2007 There's been more than a few threads about this lately. They are a treasure trove of information. Look back over the past few weeks in the Cooling section and you'll find pages and pages about people setting up new WC systems... http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=73070 http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=72861 http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=72601 It took me about 30 seconds and a couple pages to find those. As far as the coolant debate is concerned, I think it's largely pointless. I personally use MCT-5. Yes, it's nonconductive, but the dust sitting on all my components isn't. Pure water isn't conductive either, but all the contaminants and minerals in it are. So, the only thing that I wouldn't recommed using is FluidXP because it'll clog the loop. MCT-5, distilled/dionized water, Zerex, other anti-freeze... it's all fine. On that note, I would like to point out that antifreeze isn't just antifreeze. Using that logic, people that live in deserts should use only water for coolant. Well that's a real problem when it boils at 100C and engines run at 80-90C under normal conditions. Antifreeze is used a coolant (that's why most containers say "antifreeze/coolant" ). It raises the boiling temperature and lowers the freezing temperature and just happens to be anti-corrosive and a biocide. In other words, it's perfect for WC when diluted. Anyway, here's my generic recommendation: CPU block: D-Tek Fuzion GPU blocks: D-Tek Fuzion GFX -or- DangerDen Maze4/Maze5 Pump: Laing DDC-2 with Petra's top (DDCT-01s) Radiator: PA120.2/3 -or- PA160 with any Yate Loon fans ( Tubing: 7/16" ID Masterkleer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage70 Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 (edited) Hey thanks for poiniting these out. I have decided on: CPU block: Dtek Fuzion GPU Blocks: Dtek Fuzion GFX Waterblock Radiator: Swiftech MCR-220 Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B Tubing: MasterKleer 7/16"ID x 5/8"OD Coolant: MCT-5 Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir Fans: Panaflo 120 x 38mm Ultra High speed Fan There's been more than a few threads about this lately. They are a treasure trove of information. Look back over the past few weeks in the Cooling section and you'll find pages and pages about people setting up new WC systems...http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=73070 http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=72861 http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=72601 It took me about 30 seconds and a couple pages to find those. As far as the coolant debate is concerned, I think it's largely pointless. I personally use MCT-5. Yes, it's nonconductive, but the dust sitting on all my components isn't. Pure water isn't conductive either, but all the contaminants and minerals in it are. So, the only thing that I wouldn't recommed using is FluidXP because it'll clog the loop. MCT-5, distilled/dionized water, Zerex, other anti-freeze... it's all fine. On that note, I would like to point out that antifreeze isn't just antifreeze. Using that logic, people that live in deserts should use only water for coolant. Well that's a real problem when it boils at 100C and engines run at 80-90C under normal conditions. Antifreeze is used a coolant (that's why most containers say "antifreeze/coolant" ). It raises the boiling temperature and lowers the freezing temperature and just happens to be anti-corrosive and a biocide. In other words, it's perfect for WC when diluted. Anyway, here's my generic recommendation: CPU block: D-Tek Fuzion GPU blocks: D-Tek Fuzion GFX -or- DangerDen Maze4/Maze5 Pump: Laing DDC-2 with Petra's top (DDCT-01s) Radiator: PA120.2/3 -or- PA160 with any Yate Loon fans ( Tubing: 7/16" ID Masterkleer Edited August 2, 2007 by savage70 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleeble Posted August 2, 2007 Posted August 2, 2007 Hey thanks for poiniting these out. I have decided on:CPU block: Dtek Fuzion GPU Blocks: Dtek Fuzion GFX Waterblock Radiator: Swiftech MCR-220 Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B Tubing: MasterKleer 7/16"ID x 5/8"OD Coolant: MCT-5 Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir Fans: Panaflo 120 x 38mm Ultra High speed Fan No problem. The one thing I would really recommend you change is the pump. Get the Laing DDC-3.2 pump with Petra's top (link). It's not much more expensive and it's a better pump. I wouldn't believe the specs on that Swiftech one, they look grossly over-exaggerated. That radiator certainly isn't bad, but there are better ones available. Take a look at this page and pick the best performing radiator that you can squeeze into your budget. I hope you realize that those are loud fans. You're probably going to want to put them on a fan controller. Apart from some hose clamps and RAMsinks for your video card, everything else looks good! :thumbs-up: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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