Lapped my Ultra-120 eX (pics and results)

[graysky]

When my Ultra-120 X and I have to say I'm a little puzzled. The base where it should contact the heat spreader is not smooth at all, it's actually grooved! You can see a scratch which is where I gently ran my thumb nail over the surface; I could feel the rough edges.

 

Have a look for yourself:

 

Anyway, others encouraged me to lap it which I've never done before. After wrestling with the idea for a couple of days as well as reading many articles/guides, I decided to give it a go. $20 worth of sandpaper, a $2 piece of flat glass, and 4 hours of careful work (and sweat) later, I was left with a pretty darn flat HS. You can see by the pictures that this particular one was quite concave instead of being flat which isn't good for keeping contact between the HS and IHS of the CPU.

 

 

Did it work you're probably wondering. The temp data as measured in speedfan.exe for a ~1 h x264 encode (uses all 4 cores with a CPU load of >99 %). I had speedfan log the temps (which it does every 3-4 seconds) and I averaged the whole data set per core for the 2nd pass of the 2-pass encode (the 2nd pass is the most CPU intensive). Room temp for both experiments was ~23

[hardnrg]

I dunno wth Thermalright are up to... my XP-120 was HORRIBLE and so was everyone else's on this forum, concave and dented, scratched and dull

[kingdingeling]

Maybe I should get onto my SI-120 again

[shaggy866]

Yeah same here when i got my Ultra-120 X i was puzzled, i guess I'm going lap mine too

[graysky]

I dunno wth Thermalright are up to... my XP-120 was HORRIBLE and so was everyone else's on this forum, concave and dented, scratched and dull

 

Wow dude, I dunno about the dented part, but when I called TR and asked if that rough, uneven surface was normal the tech told me it was that way *by design* which I didn't understand. Unless... it could be that they think or have some lab tests etc. showing that more surface area gives better contact. I find this hard to believe given my results.

 

More than likely, TR does it this way to maximize profits or they didn't design it like this at all, and these are made in China where quality controls don't exist. Maybe these are no different than the recently publicized poisoned toothpaste, pet food, etc. that comes out of that country. You ever read "The Jungle" by Upton Sinclair?

[GlimmerMan]

Mine had the whole machine cut grooves in it, but no dents or bends.

[kendellrt]

Relating back to your lap work - how do you lap your products? I have heard people will use a figure eight clockwise and counter-clockwise. Others will go up and down and then left and right. I read a review that said to go in circles clockwise and then counter-clockwise. Some prefer to use water or soapy water, but you mentioned in another post that you didn't use anything. I also was wondering why you didn't take it further to 1000 or 2000 grit.

[Silverfox]

Jeez that looks mad! Unless the IHS on the processor has the same design and "interlocks", the argument for increased surface area falls a bit flat!

 

My Scyth Ninja was lovely and flat, much to my surprise. It appeared a bit "stained", but it was just from the protective sticker and cleaned up nicely. I was most impressed, especially as a lot of heatsinks are badly mill-finished.

 

In defence of manufacturers though, finishing copper nicely is MUCH easier than aluminium. You can't really polish aluminium without destroying it completely in a factory. By hand is the best way, hence people lapping. If only stainless steel was more conductive - I can mirror polish that with the tools I have

[graysky]

Relating back to your lap work - how do you lap your products? I have heard people will use a figure eight clockwise and counter-clockwise. Others will go up and down and then left and right. I read a review that said to go in circles clockwise and then counter-clockwise. Some prefer to use water or soapy water, but you mentioned in another post that you didn't use anything. I also was wondering why you didn't take it further to 1000 or 2000 grit.

 

From what I've read, front-to-back/back-to-front is the better technique since circular or figure-eight motions can introduce uneven surfaces; you have more control when you minimize the angular motions. I have always used soapy water (like 1 drop of dish soap in 1 liter or so of water). I wouldn't recommend that you do it without. The water lubricates as well as immobilizes the metal partials. As to your last question about 1000 or 2000 grit... I think the most benefit you'll get out of lapping is a flat surface; you can make it smooth beyond say 600 or 800 grit, but as I understand it through reading, the extra mile doesn't give you much if any additional benefit.

[Bleeble]

As to your last question about 1000 or 2000 grit... I think the most benefit you'll get out of lapping is a flat surface; you can make it smooth beyond say 600 or 800 grit, but as I understand it through reading, the extra mile doesn't give you much if any additional benefit.

It would be interesting to see someone test that theory... *hint*

[graysky]

It would be interesting to see someone test that theory... *hint*

 

Ha! Sounds like you just volunteered!

[kendellrt]

Ha! Sounds like you just volunteered!

 

 

I'm no guinea pig, you do it!