E6600 overclocking & temperture problem

[Systemlord]

Generally, the only time I would run two stress tests is if the program is not multi-threaded or does not stress the CPU 100%. Programs like SuperPi and Prime95 will only stress one core, so you'd have to run two to get 100% load. Orthos and TAT, however, stress both cores.

 

Orthos is fine for stress testing. But when you want to make sure that your settings are really stable, try looping 3dmark while running TAT or Orthos. I say both because 3dmark won't load your CPU 100%.

 

You could probably just drop your Vcore down to 1.45V and just go from there instead of slowly inching your way down from 1.56. Either way works, but this is probably faster.

 

Now that I have stress tested using Orthos (11 hours) I need a stress test for my ram as Orthos mostly stresses the CPU. You think Prime95 is better at stressing the ram more then Orthos? What is the ussual time for stress testing with all these stress utility's? Do I need to run two Prime95's at the same time?

Edited June 10, 2007 by Systemlord

[Bleeble]

Now that I have stress tested using Orthos (11 hours) I need a stress test for my ram as Orthos mostly stresses the CPU. You think Prime95 is better at stressing the ram more then Orthos? What is the ussual time for stress testing with all these stress utility's? Do I need to run two Prime95's at the same time?

For RAM, the Orthos Blend test using priority 8 works OK. Actually, use priority 8 for any Orthos test you run; it's much more stressful. 3dmark is good for stressing the entire system, including RAM. You could try looping that. Memtest is also good. FYI: Orthos and Prime95 are pretty much the same thing. Orthos is just less of a hassle.

 

If you're looking for long-term stability, test for at least 24 hours. If you're just on your way up to a higher frequency (as I suspect you are), you can test for as little or as much time as you want. I usually run Orthos for an hour or two while I'm wasting time here and then move on.

 

The best way to do things is to OC the memory first using a low multiplier and high FSB (like 450x6). This keeps your CPU speed in a range that you know it can handle, so you know that any instability is caused by your RAM or mobo. Try running the memory (using a 1:1 ratio) up to 500 FSB and beyond. Once you figure out your max RAM/FSB speed, you can work on the CPU using a high multiplier and lower FSB (400x9). That will keep your memory running below spec so you know any instability that crops up is from your CPU. After you find your max RAM and CPU speeds, pick a multiplier that lets you get the most out of both (use benchmarks to test). You can do both RAM and CPU at once, but that just adds more variables and makes things harder.

 

OCing is not a good hobby for the impatient.

[Systemlord]

Boy this thead is growing! Ok I am having trouble reaching 3.8GHz. I underclocked ram to 850MHz @2.15v, Vcore @1.56v & 3.8GHz. My temps remain the same (Tjunction @66c both cores using TAT) and I believe that something else is blocking my OC as my temps are still very good. The second I start Orthos or TAT it crashes then reboots. So bacicly I'm at the end of my knowledge of OC'ing and now need yours. I do believe I have OC'ed the FSB so much that everything else is behind in voltage and needs to catch-up with the rest of the system. That tells me its either not enough Volts (dought it)or the NB or FSB volts aren't enough. Hay Bleeble I read that Asus OC'ing guide & maybe all I need is one single setting right, maybe Northbridge or FSB voltage increase? But without knowing what I'm doing I could turn this OC'ing venture into a nightmare. Just think when I'm as knowledgable as you guys about OC'ing I can pass on the knowledge helping others which is sort of a hobby for me. Please list any suggestions you may have. I almost forgot could it be my 480W PSU? Thanks.

Edited June 10, 2007 by Systemlord

[Bleeble]

I do believe I have OC'ed the FSB so much that everything else is behind in voltage and needs to catch-up with the rest of the system. That tells me its either not enough Volts (dought it)or the NB or FSB volts aren't enough. Hay Bleeble I read that Asus OC'ing guide & maybe all I need is one single setting right, maybe Northbridge or FSB voltage increase? But without knowing what I'm doing I could turn this OC'ing venture into a nightmare. Just think when I'm as knowledgable as you guys about OC'ing I can pass on the knowledge helping others which is sort of a hobby for me. Please list any suggestions you may have. I almost forgot could it be my 480W PSU? Thanks.

No, I don't think your PSU is causing the instability. It should be sufficient for your system.

 

But I do think you're right about the voltage. I don't know the setting name since I don't have that board, but you should try increasing the chipset voltage some to see if that helps. That's also the reason I suggested starting with the memory in my last post. That way you can see what the highest FSB your mobo can handle is.

 

Is this the memory you have? http://www.crucial.com/ballistix/store/Par...AL1065&cat=

Did you manually set the timings in your BIOS? If not, I would highly suggest doing that. Also, set the Vdimm to 2.2V. Since it is supposed to be able to run at DDR2-1066 with those settings, anything below 500 FSB should work.

 

I didn't read through that guide all the way, but I skimmed over enough of it. If you haven't already, you should follow the steps posted there. Pay special attention to the section about memory/northbridge settings.

[Systemlord]

Is this the memory you have? http://www.crucial.com/ballistix/store/Par...AL1065&cat=

Did you manually set the timings in your Bios

 

Yes that is the Ram I have, except without the LED's. The ones I have are the golden (in color) Crucial Ballistix which are the same and can be had for 109.99 after $85 mail-in rebate at NewEgg.com. If you want the LED version its only $20 more. Heres a picture of them. And thank you so much for helping me, I think I can take it from here as I pretty much know what setting do what. O yeah I have been manualy setting my timings.

Edited June 10, 2007 by Systemlord

[Bleeble]

We're always happy to help (well, most of us ). Don't forget to post if you have anymore questions. And don't post only when you have a problem, I want to see you become a regular contributor on OCC! :thumbs-up:

 

EDIT: And the overclocking competition, don't forget that!

Edited June 10, 2007 by Bleeble

[Systemlord]

We're always happy to help (well, most of us ). Don't forget to post if you have anymore questions. And don't post only when you have a problem, I want to see you become a regular contributor on OCC! :thumbs-up:

 

EDIT: And the overclocking competition, don't forget that!

 

Your not getting rid of me that easy. I like being apart of an online community comparing notes ( helping others) and seeing whos got the best overclock. O guess what I've got another question. Earlyer I was trying to lower my Vcore manualy and when I lowered it to 1.44v to 1.53v I notice something strange! The lower my Vcore was the hotter my Tcase went, but at the same time Core 1 & 2 (using TAT) were cooler than Tcase? Example Tcase was 65c while Core 1 & 2 were 55c Is that what happens when you undervolt your CPU? For now I have my CPU at 1.55 under load & 1.56 no load. But anyway I have desided to leave everything where it is because when I was going to increase my NB voltage I stopped and thought for a moment, then I realized that the NB is a little warm/hot already. So for now I'm happy with my results. If you have any clue to why my Tcase was higher than my cores that'd be great. Were you going to get the Crucial's?

Edited June 10, 2007 by Systemlord

[Bleeble]

If you have any clue to why my Tcase was higher than my cores that'd be great. Were you going to get the Crucial's?

One thing I noticed with the previous version of Speedfan is that the hotter the CPU got, the closer the "CPU" (Tcase) was to being accurate. So around 60C, CoreTemp and Speedfan would give the same temps. But at lower temps there would be as much as a 7C discrepency. With the new version of Speedfan, "CPU" actually shows higher temps. To be honest, I don't even pay attention to Tcase. I just watch the cores because I know it's physically impossible for Tcase to be higher the Tjunction. I think you should lower your Vcore more. For all we know, you may only need 1.4 volts to maintain that speed. Remember, heat is your enemy; your computer could be running a lot cooler.

 

What temperature is your Northbridge at right now? When I used the stock NB heatsink, temps got up to 50C under load (don't remember idle). After buying an HR-05 SLI, temps dropped dramatically. Right now I'm sitting at 34C. If I turn up my fan(s), that'll drop a few degrees. If you're interested, the HR-05 is widely available for only $20 and Xoxide has both HR-05 and HR-05 SLI for $20.

 

I wouldn't mind having some Crucial Ballistix, but I don't have a lot of money. G.Skill HZ for $110 is veeeerrry tempting though...

 

Random question: What time zone are you in? Just curious because you're posting in the middle of the night for me.

[Systemlord]

One thing I noticed with the previous version of Speedfan is that the hotter the CPU got, the closer the "CPU" (Tcase) was to being accurate. So around 60C, CoreTemp and Speedfan would give the same temps. But at lower temps there would be as much as a 7C discrepency. With the new version of Speedfan, "CPU" actually shows higher temps. To be honest, I don't even pay attention to Tcase. I just watch the cores because I know it's physically impossible for Tcase to be higher the Tjunction. I think you should lower your Vcore more. For all we know, you may only need 1.4 volts to maintain that speed. Remember, heat is your enemy; your computer could be running a lot cooler.

 

What temperature is your Northbridge at right now? When I used the stock NB heatsink, temps got up to 50C under load (don't remember idle). After buying an HR-05 SLI, temps dropped dramatically. Right now I'm sitting at 34C. If I turn up my fan(s), that'll drop a few degrees. If you're interested, the HR-05 is widely available for only $20 and Xoxide has both HR-05 and HR-05 SLI for $20.

 

I wouldn't mind having some Crucial Ballistix, but I don't have a lot of money. G.Skill HZ for $110 is veeeerrry tempting though...

 

Random question: What time zone are you in? Just curious because you're posting in the middle of the night for me.

 

How do you check NB temps? Right now my NB to the touch is pretty hot (finger on NB for more than 3 seconds ouch). My mobo wasn't on the compatablity list for the NB heatsink, but I''d really like to get one though. You think my TT 120 is in the way, I have 2 "inches between TT 120 and graphics card? I am in the Pacific West Coast, Southern Ca, I'm up all hours of the night. Those GSkill's are very good dimms as just look at the reviews, they use a mid-high D9 IC's which have come very close to the best D9's. My CPU is asking no less than 1.56v "unload", 1.55 "loaded", anything lower and I get errors with Orthos on core #1 after an hour. You think this is ok or is it just not worth risking this vcore? I thought that if you can make your CPU cooler there would be less resistannce therefore allowing less vcore. Hay which is better for all out performance, Ram @800MHz 1:1 ratio with FSB or Ram @1200MHz 2:3 with FSB? Update: the NB cooler won't clear my GFX card, maybe theres another that'll fit.

Edited June 10, 2007 by Systemlord

[Bleeble]

How do you check NB temps? Right now my NB to the touch is pretty hot (finger on NB for more than 3 seconds ouch). My mobo wasn't on the compatablity list for the NB heatsink, but I''d really like to get one though. You think my TT 120 is in the way, I have 2 "inches between TT 120 and graphics card? I am in the Pacific West Coast, Southern Ca, I'm up all hours of the night. Those GSkill's are very good dimms as just look at the reviews, they use a mid-high D9 IC's which have come very close to the best D9's. My CPU is asking no less than 1.56v "unload", 1.55 "loaded", anything lower and I get errors with Orthos on core #1 after an hour. You think this is ok or is it just not worth risking this vcore? I thought that if you can make your CPU cooler there would be less resistannce therefore allowing less vcore.

A lot of the time you can fit coolers even if they're not on the compatibility list. Try googling "chipset heatsink p5b" and see what other people are using. Ideally, try to find someone that uses the same heatsink and video card as well. I just suggested those two because that's what I'm most familiar with. Actually, it didn't fit that well on my mobo the first time I tried it. The thing would either hit my memory or heatsink or sit a millimeter above my video card. A little bit of twisting, remounting, and cursing later, it fit.

 

If you haven't increased your chipset or FSB voltage yet, I would do that. I think that may be the reason you need such high Vcore. I use Speedfan to check my NB temps. You can also check in your BIOS. I think your Vcore is too high for that speed, but it is possible that it needs that much voltage. However, I'd exhaust all other possibilities before saying that.

 

Hay which is better for all out performance, Ram @800MHz 1:1 ratio with FSB or Ram @1200MHz 2:3 with FSB? Update: the NB cooler won't clear my GFX card, maybe theres another that'll fit.

Of those two choices, I would guess 1200MHz. It depends on your timings too. And if you need some crazy voltage to keep 1200 stable, I wouldn't do it (crazy = 2.5+). But the BEST solution is to pick a multiplier that allows you to run a very high FSB with the same CPU frequency. Example: instead of 400x9 to get 3.6 GHz, try 450x8 or 514x7. That would allow you to run your memory 1:1 at 900 and 1028, respectively. This relates to my earlier posts about seeing how far you can push your mobo and RAM first... *hint*

[Systemlord]

If you haven't increased your chipset or FSB voltage yet, I would do that. I think that may be the reason you need such high Vcore. I use Speedfan to check my NB temps. You can also check in your BIOS. I think your Vcore is too high for that speed, but it is possible that it needs that much voltage. However, I'd exhaust all other possibilities before saying that.

 

But the BEST solution is to pick a multiplier that allows you to run a very high FSB with the same CPU frequency. Example: instead of 400x9 to get 3.6 GHz, try 450x8 or 514x7. That would allow you to run your memory 1:1 at 900 and 1028, respectively. This relates to my earlier posts about seeing how far you can push your mobo and RAM first... *hint*

 

I also have Speed Fan, what does the NB sensor thingy look like? First I need to find out what my NB Voltage/temp is now, so then I'll know which is the next highest voltage setting to use. On the part of multiplier - I'm confused about setting "multiplier", aren't the multipliers locked up (but not for the X6800) with the CPU'S we have? I never did understand what you meant about "push your mobo & Ram first". How would I go about setting 450x8 or 514x7? Also today the first time I started reading you reply I went to the store real quick came back and my system had rebooted to desktop, because I was trying a lower Vcore. I had many tabs open before I left. Also I ran Orthos for 5 hours [email protected] after which it crashed. You really think that my NB voltage could cause me to have a higher Vcore?

Edited June 11, 2007 by Systemlord

[Bleeble]

I also have Speed Fan, what does the NB sensor thingy look like? First I need to find out what my NB Voltage/temp is now, so then I'll know which is the next highest voltage setting to use. On the part of multiplier - I'm confused about setting "multiplier", aren't the multipliers locked up (but not for the X6800) with the CPU'S we have? I never did understand what you meant about "push your mobo & Ram first". How would I go about setting 450x8 or 514x7? Also today the first time I started reading you reply I went to the store real quick came back and my system had rebooted to desktop, because I was trying a lower Vcore. I had many tabs open before I left. Also I ran Orthos for 5 hours [email protected] after which it crashed. You really think that my NB voltage could cause me to have a higher Vcore?

Your CPU clock is determined by FSB and a multiplier (266x9 for the E6600). Most CPUs allow you to lower the multi, but not raise it. The X6800 along with a few other CPUs allow you to raise it. To change the multi, enable "Modify Ratio Support" then set "Ratio CMOS Setting" to whatever you want. E6600s can use multis between 6 and 9. If you set your multi to 6, you can increase the FSB to see the maximum your mobo and RAM can handle without having to worry about CPU instability. Just set your multi to 6, vCore to 1.4V, and increase the FSB starting at 400. If you get instability, increase vMCH (chipset/NB), vDIMM (RAM), and/or change your memory timings. The guide I linked to should be able to tell you everything you need to know. Since I don't have the same mobo as you, I'd have to look at the guide to find the settings too. Check there first and if you can't find what you need I'm still happy to help. Make sure you do the other things it says like disabling C1E Support, etc.

 

From the guide:

FSB termination Voltage useful option when pushing the FSB frequency high on the CPU, adding a little voltage here can help stabalise things as you clock higher.

NB Vcore Remember the memory controller is on the NorthBridge, adding some voltage here can have a huge impact on how well the CPU and memory overclock. Just remember if you set the max 1.65V to keep the NB cooled by adding a fan over the heatsink.

That reminds me, try to point a fan at your NB heatsink if you haven't already. That will drop your temps a lot and help with stability.

 

Speedfan should have a handful of temps shown. Two are Tjunction, one is Tcase, one should be chipset/northbridge, and there might be more for your hard drive(s). The first three should be easy to find. Run TAT and they all jump immediately. Cores 0 and 1 are probably labeled. HDD temps rarely change and are likely already labeled (HD0, HD1, etc.), so those should be easy enough to spot. Lastly, you have NB. It will increase when you run Orthos or do something memory intensive, but not nearly as quickly as CPU temps (see the attached image). I've also got another random sensor that shows -1C and never changes. Obviously, if you've got something like that, ignore it.

 

On a random note, I just realized I've been typing "Vcore" when it's actually "vCore"... oops.