Around 100k miles for an f-bod lt1 is nothing...its aluminum heads and an iron block, and reverse cooled to cool the heads *before* the block to run high compression wihout detonating. I have a 93 with waaayyy too many mods, and more always on the way, and I'll list all the pros and cons I can think of to try to help you out as much as possible...
Fast - Depending on the altutude and weather of your area high 13s are common bone stock. Mine ran 13.9 as an auto with just an intake. Top speed hovers right around 160mph. Acceleration is crazy.
Torque - Peak torque is very low in the rpm range for an lt1 - 330 foot pounds at the flywheel under 3k rpm is nothing to underestimate. That makes it very fun to drive, and honestly they feel faster then they actually are usually(can be a con depending on how you look at it).
Looks - The Lt1 "raccon face" looks more aggressive then the newer ls1 "catfish fash", but thats all up to personal preferance. They are both great looking cars though.
Sounds - LT1 is one of the best sounding engines ever. Period.
Strength - The iron block doesnt play...bone stock the engine can take 125 shots of nitrous safely, and more with the proper setup. I personally know people who spray 150 wet shots on the stock block with the proper precations. A fellow member of a forum I frequent tore down his 160k mile LT1 for a rebuild and it showed virtually no
cylinder wear. They use similar blocks in NYC taxi cabs that go 200K+ miles with only basic maintanence.
Price - Good condition LT1s range from around 4k-6k depending on your area. Price to performance ratio is just about untouched at the track. Takes more to get to same speed as their "bigger brothers"(actually 4 cubes smaller) LS1 engines, but also significantly less initial cost.
Cons(here they come...):
Pain to work on - If you are not mechanically inclined, or know someone who is, I would be hesitant. The engine is squeezed tightly into the car, with a big part of it actually under the windshield. Clearance sucks everywhere. With stock manifolds put at the very least 2 hours aside just to change sparkplugs.
Can be problematic - If you drive hard be ready for surprise expenses. Oil leaks are more common then I'd like to say - luckily its usually the rear intake manifold and is a pretty simple and cheap fix. Sometimes the rear main will go, or the oil pan gasket. I have had all three, and none are fun...engine is cradled in the k-member so changing the pan gasket needs the engine to be lifted slightly and the k-member lowered. Another thing is that dang opti. Instead of a traditional rear mounted mechanical distributer it determines crank position by a slotted disk and an optical sensor. Great idea in theory, but the sensor is sensitive to moistiure, and its in the front of the engine under the water pump. If the water pump leaks or goes, opti usually does too. Its an expensive part but usually only changed once during the life of the car.
Interior - To be frank, it sucks. The drivers seat is comfortable, but thats about it. Very low to the ground so getting in/out is annoying, passenger side has an annoying bump on the floor from where the cat is(most people remove it anyway, but the bump is still there), back seats are just about useless, trunk is shaped funny, and there is one dang cup holder for the whole car (that last one frustrates me!) >.<. Also, the top dashboard pad gets brittle and cracked ones are common(costs around 80 bucks to replace).
Accident prone - Lots of lowend torque makes it a nuisance to drive in the rain, and if modded even on fresh dry blacktop traction is still a problem. Low visibility, lots of blind spots, cant see where the front stops because it is raked down. Tends to make you speed by accident. The car itself makes ricers constantly annoy you and try to get you to race(resist! they arent worth the risk or even the gas money). 93 has no traction control available - I seriously recommend against that if you are a new driver...these cars are seriously dangerous in the rain to people who arent experienced.
10-bolt - Curse this thing! Wheelhop and torque murders the weak stock rearend. Even if you dont ever plan on racing I suggest you get at least aftermarket lower control arms to reduce wheelhop and prolong your rearend life. Not as much of a problem in a manual where you arent dumping the clutch from high rpms, but still a problem. If you have a manual do not run slicks or drag radials unless you are financially able to repair or replace it if/when it goes.
Thats about all I can think of for now. Any other questions and I'll be glad to help...If I had a chance to go back to when I purchsed mine I would do it all again in a hearbeat. They are best for people who know how to wrench, or arent scared to learn
. 93's are a pretty different beast from the other years, I'll be glad to help you out with the differences if you want.
-i7 4790k @ 4.9ghz 24/7 - Asus Sabertooth Z97 MK1 - 2X4GB Patriot Viper Extreme - RX580 8GB - 28" Samsung 4K - Dual PSU CM SilentPro M 1Kw Main/OCZ Z-Series Z850w Slave - Custom MM Extended Ascension - Logitech G502/G710+/Homemade Stainless mousepad -
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Wow, puck just kinda summed that one up for most of us lol. I agree with puck.
Man Puck... I couldn't have said it better myself!
Current Rides: 93 Medium Patriot Red NA 383 Z28 - 2012 Metallic Spark Black Nitrous ZX14R - 09 Victory Red Z51 6sp LS3 Corvette