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I've seen a few people around here with Epox mainboards in their sigs, and it seems like those people usually have good things to say about the brand. I myself have never heard anything about them and am curious how they stack up, and specifically what makes people pick them. I'm not in the market really, just something I'm wondering about.

 

Also, I seem to recall seeing mutliple people mention something about voltage droop mods on Epox boards... can anyone elaborate on what that means specifically and why I only see it on Epox boards?

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I've seen a few people around here with Epox mainboards in their sigs, and it seems like those people usually have good things to say about the brand.  I myself have never heard anything about them and am curious how they stack up, and specifically what makes people pick them.  I'm not in the market really, just something I'm wondering about. 

 

Also, I seem to recall seeing mutliple people mention something about voltage droop mods on Epox boards...  can anyone elaborate on what that means specifically and why I only see it on Epox boards?

508810[/snapback]

 

I keep saying it, but I love mine :)

 

All I know about the voltage droop is that it exists on rev 2.1 9nda3 boards. Strangely it didn't seem to affect stability for me, but I did the mod to fix it anyway and... well, it's the least vcore fluctuation I have seen. 0.02v :) But then I have only really owned a couple of NF7's, which were around 0.05v.

 

EDIT: Oh and you'll see vcore fluctuation on any board by the way. Just... not quite the same as this particular Epox board. Usually the fluctuation happens when the CPU is under load, so if you had it set to, say, 1.4v in BIOS when you put the CPU under load it might drop to 1.35v. On this board, if you set 1.4v in BIOS it would be more near 1.32v IDLE but instantly go right up to 1.4v under load. I guess that's why it didn't really affect stability, because the voltage was there when it was needed...

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Yeah, it's odd. Mine undervolts too, and it also kind of "surges" when you put it under load. It's not really like the dreaded Asus progessive vcore sag/droop; it's something different. The one thing I really don't like is the voltage fluctuation. I'm set for 1.65 in BIOS, but under load it fluctuates from about 1.637 to 1.66. I think (I hope) that's the reason I can't get this San Diego Prime Stable over 2.76 Ghz.

 

The only other beef I have with the board is the really poor layout of the connectors. The SATA connectors are right under the AGP slot (the 9NDA3+ has two more connectors, but of course they aren't the locking ones), and the power connectors are behind the CPU at the back of the case.

 

As far as reliability, I haven't had a single problem. The board been running more or less 24/7 since January when I got it. There are documented bugs (memory compatibility problems, boot problems, broken onboard LAN) but I haven't seen any of that.

 

If I had to do it again, I'd still pick it over Neo2. When I go NF4 it'll be DFI all the way though.

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Thanks for the info guys! I took a look at the newegg pics of that board to try to see what you meant by the poor layout of power connectors and SATA ports, and I noticed the main selling point. The price! If that board is as competitive with the MSI/DFI/Gigabyte boards as I think it is, then that's a VERY cheap alternative. I didn't realize they were so cheap.

 

Also, as far as the voltage mod... do you have a link to the guide you used? Or how did you figure out how to do it? Again, just out of curiosity really, I'm not really in the market or anything. Just wondering how it works....

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Ah yes the SATA connectors :) Only thing I don't like about the layout is the SATA connectors. I don't mind where the power connector is. But yeah, they're cheaper :P

 

The guide I used appears to be missing the picture now. But uhh, see attached dodgy paint picture I did :) It's a pretty straight forward mod really.

 

 

 

The vdimm mod is unbelievably easy too! It's like they want you to do the mod :lol: They left a solder pad under the chip leg, which is directly connected to to where you're supposed to solder to. :)

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Well, I have been using them for a number of years now.. and i am most pleased with what they offer for the price they offer. What they offer? Basically everything you need. Not just some features, all the features. I have also attempted to use, "better" more expensive models from Asus... and i was simply not pleased. They didn't feel as complete as the Epox models.

 

The BIOS offers the tweaking of virtually everything and overclocking is great and stable.

 

One of the features i love the most is the fact that you can see health information on post screen, something i haven't seen on any other brand. I find that really useful. They seem to be speedier too, as it takes them less time to get thru all the pre-Windows steps.

 

I am still using Socket A so i can only talk about that. But from what i read, Anandtech chose the Epox board for P4 as being their mobo of choice.

 

So maybe you can give them a try next time.

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One of the features i love the most is the fact that you can see health information on post screen, something i haven't seen on any other brand. I find that really useful.

512068[/snapback]

 

Yeah, that part is pretty cool :D

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IMO, the 9NDA3+/J boards are the way to go for AGP sck 939. I have yet to see another agp 939 board hit the htt 1:1 as high as this one. I dont know if it still applies, but I know the Neo2 plat's used to be very unstable at high htt and any ldt over almost exaclty 1000. These boards can run 305+ 1:1 and I have no problem using 1100+ ldt. The only 2 problems I didnt like were droop, which is fixed very easily if you can at least solder a little bit, and the max ram volts of 2.8...which is also a simple volt mod to do. I dont use SATA so the proximity to agp slot doesnt concern me. I read many reviews and comparisons(the head-to-head against neo2's really interested me) before I bought it and am still very happy that I did.

 

**edit** oh, dont forget the p80 diagnostic LEDs! Those things are a godsend when a part goes out...no beep codes to decipher ;)**edit**

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OT: :O your sig image has disappeared!

512125[/snapback]

(also OT)Nah, I dissapeareded it :lol: . When my main rig is back up I have to set off some time and make a decent one thats readable. Johnny made a cool one that I might just throw "Puck" on and use, but I dont feel like messing with any of that stuff now.

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