1500 Watt Subs

[Shadowfactor]

I would like to get a new sub , cuz the one with my z-640 isnt too great , I would like to get a 1500 watt sub or 2: 900 watt. I am going to be using my z640 speakers asides the Bass. I get good deals on Car speakers but i have no idea if they will work on a computer and hurt it. I have a 7.1 sound card that is stock on my mobo ? is it possible to do this and maybe use car speakers ??

[silentsoundguy32]

you sound card will be fine but those subs won't do jack crap untill you get your self a good amp and thats going to be a few hundred $$$.

[Shadowfactor]

Well Im ganan get a nice amp with a cheater chip and . but I need to get some good Subs first

[wamason]

Well Im ganan get a nice amp with a cheater chip and . but I need to get some good Subs first

476542[/snapback]

 

 

Why 1500 watts? I use a pair of JBL Northridge E250P's in my living (which also housed my HTPC). Each sub has a 250 Watt RMS amp. I'm using Infinity Primus speakers, and a Kenwood receiver. Both of my subs will literally vibrate a cup off my coffee table. I know everyone has different listening preferences, but I'm just curious as to why you want so much power? It seems like your best bet might be to get a powered sub designed for home theatre use. That would be the easiest way to go.

[Waco]

You sound like you don't know what you are doing. I'd stay with using a home theater sub if I were you.

[crash]

OK here's the deal, 1500 watt subs are incredibly expensive and not worth it. I'm talking about REAL 1500 watt subs, not the ones you see advertised with the fancy chrome sh+t on them and in the small print "<20%THD - that's less than 20 % total harmonic distortion @ 1500 watts!

 

If you want to run car speakers on your home/comp system, that's ok. The only difference b/w car subs and house subs is that car subs a generaly 4/2 ohms and house are 8ohms. If you get a reciever that's decent it will handle 4 ohms, if not you can run them in series and bump to 8 ohms.

 

The type of sound card will not really matter. It will only be sending a signal, (go digital, it's way cleaner!) at around 5 volts / 1 watt. Your amp will be doing all the grunt work.

 

Now, when you choose your sub, choose one with less than 0.5%THD at it's rated (RMS) power. I've had eclipse and rockford fosgate subs rated at 150 watts that blew away "500" watt subs - just because they could handle the power better and more efficiently. If you want good quality 1500 watt subs you're looking at around $1000 a piece.

[jonnoyeo111]

Kicker SoloX !!! 10000W Sub!!! lol, meh i wanted to do that to my system, never got around to it...give us sum pics wen its done!

[Ornlu]

Well, I did this with my computer. I have two subs running off of it. One being a sealed phoenix gold Xenon (awesome sub, tightest I've ever heard musically) and a ported infinity for the bass rolls (adds some smoothing to the lower end). The inifinity has an integrated amplifier, only 150 watts. The xenon has a 1400 watt mackie pro amp, low pass filter at 65 hz, high pass filter at 15 hz.

 

I'm probably selling the phoenix gold sub and purchasing something from adire audio though.

 

 

 

 

In any event, I suggest that you focus more on how you're going to get the signal to the sub and the speakers. Will you be using a receiver of some sort? Or will you just be passing two signals out of your sound card. (not quite sure what the previous post was suggesting with a digital signal.) But you'll have to use RCA to 1/8 connectors in order to pass something off to the sub as well. Unless you have a digital amp for your sub, which I've never heard of personally.

 

Now, as far as drivers go, what are you looking for? A tight musical sound? Or a loud bass roll (ie for rap) Because this largely dictates what sub/enclosure you should consider.

 

I'd never look into kicker... they sound cheap and sloppy. Just loud. Phoenix gold makes some amazing subs, as does adire audio, dayton, and infinity. You can get an adire audio or dayton sub fairly cheap, but you'll also have to find an enclosure for it.

[Shadowfactor]

My friend hooks me up with autobahn subs , His sound really good , His are car speakers. He has 2 1500 watt autobahn that normally cost 500 bucks but his buddy works for Autobahn and he gets them for 150 a piece.

 

I want some good rap Subs

[MasterRex862]

I am happy using my home theatre system. Two 5ft towers and one HUGE 3' by 3' subwoofer. I hook my computer up to the tv in my home theatre, and I play music so loud I broke a window.... The window on my fireplace cover... That was one of the coolest dang things I have ever experienced musically.

 

 

1500watts is overkill, especially RMS rated. RMS = Crappy rating. They had some 2.0 speakers advertised as 500watts RMS, and they dont get loud at ALL.

[Ornlu]

I am happy using my home theatre system. Two 5ft towers and one HUGE 3' by 3' subwoofer. I hook my computer up to the tv in my home theatre, and I play music so loud I broke  a window.... The window on my fireplace cover... That was one of the coolest dang things I have ever experienced musically.

1500watts is overkill, especially RMS rated. RMS = Crappy rating. They had some 2.0 speakers advertised as 500watts RMS, and they dont get loud at ALL.

476983[/snapback]

 

Rms is not a bad rating at all... Those speakers that falsly advertize in RMS are just lying. They usually mean Peak etc. Also when you think of a speaker system. 500 watts is not a lot for 6.1-7.1... I mean my towers use 100 watts each, I have 1 sub with 150 watts rms and 1 sub with 1400 watts rms. I can't even crank the amp half way because I could blow up my sub. Rms value really depends on the amplifier, you can get $500 audiobahn subs, but if you power them with a loose sloppy amp then they'll sound like crap... My system's not really a "rap" system per se, it can do huge rolls obviously but it's primarily a musically driven design. With rap it doesn't really matter, almost all subs will do it well as long as they get loud enough.

[94Camaro]

 

The RMS wattage is not a "crappy rating" Peak wattage is the one to avoid. RMS stands for root mean square, which is a sort of average of the power subs can handle. The peak wattage is the power up to which the subs can handle short bursts for very short times, and sometimes may not even apply in the real world. RMS is a better gauge of how the speakers will perform. Of course it is not the only gauge either. You also watt a high sensitivity to go with that power. The sensitivity tells you how effectively a sub can convert power into volume. (In fact, masterrex, thats probably why those speakers don't get loud, because of a low sensitivity, not bad wattage) There are some other considerations, but those two are some of the big ones.

 

Total Harmonic Distortion is a rating of how much 'noise' an amplifier generates internally, and lower is better. THD is something to keep in mind when deciding how to power your subs.

 

 

Edit: Ornlu, you just beat me to it. *shakes fist*

 

Oh yeah, 1500 watts is most likely overkill for a normal room in a house, unless it's a biiiig room.