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Peltier Cooling


Colt22
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i have a custom build watercooling and my 3.2p4c is at 3.85 but i was woundering if a step up to peltiers could get me to the magical 4ghz, is it worth it.....i was looking at the swiftec 226 watt p4 peltier with the built on waterblock...i know ill have to get another powersupply but i just want to know what kind of temps i can expect

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ive tinkered with pelts and a sloppy pelt job will getcha somewhere around 86F -- a good pelt job will getcha around 50F and a " I JUST SPENT A BUTTLOAD OF MONEY TO MAKE MY PUTER FREEZE" will getcha somewhere just below freezing at idle loads

 

you can expect a raise from idle temps to load temps somewhere around 30F so if you got an idle temp of 15F - a load temp would prolly run around 40-50F

 

as for getting to the 4.0 mark - it would depend on how well you overclocked your system, how well your NB cooler is - lots of people forget that that lil bastard heats up when u OC (dont forget it), and how good your processor is - the same system oc'd to 4.0 with one processor might not be able to post with another processor labled the same

 

most the time its a matter of skill to get great speeds but sometimes its a matter of luck getting great parts

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I was looking at these too. They come in all sizes.

 

Has anyone here seen the Metalica case? it has a 4" x 4" mounted on top the case with a shank of copper to press it. I guess it makes the entire case a heat sink.

 

Thoes pelters, can you put a dial on them to turn the cooling up and down? If so why not get a piece the size of the underside top part of your case, sandwitch it with some copper an turn it up when it getts hot? Not going to do your CPU anygood but that ambient will go down.

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the way pelts work is there is a hot side and a cold side - how they acheive their function is by removing the heat from one side to another creating a cold side (which you would put on your processor) if the cold side is exposed to open air then condensation is more than likely going to form - even the lower class pelts the hot side can get substantially warm - too warm to touch - and the cold side gets cold enough to condensate

 

a pelt has limitations to how cold the cold side gets by how much heat can be removed from the hot side - so say you buy the BEST pelt on the market - you take all the proper steps on installing the pelt - but you dont have enough heat being removed then the over all performance of the pelt will be reduced -

 

*(ie- you can use a heatsink on a pelt - but its not gonna get too much cooler than just standard air cooling idle and the temps will skyrocket way past air cooling temps cause porcelan doesnt transfer temperature very well and the heatsink will get very hot and the cold side will be at most 40F below the hot side - well if your hot side is 180 then your cooking your cold side.... OR if your water cooling block doesnt have enough coolant moving through it or isnt seated right or if the pelt doesnt have neough voltage or amps then the systems performance will be greatly depleted

 

 

If so why not get a piece the size of the underside top part of your case, sandwitch it with some copper an turn it up when it getts hot?

unless you wanted to heat all the air on the outside of your case and possibly cause a rain forest inside i would advize against it

 

Thoes pelters, can you put a dial on them to turn the cooling up and down?

 

yes the performance of a peltier can be regulated by a variable resistor (rheostat) so long as it can handle the voltage and amperage load.... what i did with one i made is i took a cdrom plug and mod'd it to the pelt - i ran the 12v and the 5v wires from my power supply to a double pull single throw switch (high and low) and instead of using a ground the middle prong on the switch went to the( + ) wire on the pelt where the ( - ) wire went to the power supply's black wire thus giving me a 2 setting variable temp - the red 5volt 6amp wire was low giving me an idle temp of 81F where as the 12volt 2amp yellow wire gave me an idle temp of 38F

 

it is strongly suggested that you do NOT run a pelt system off of your computers power supply or ANY computer power supply - its not that they cant handle the voltage/amp requirements initially its the fact they CANT put out the required constant voltage/amperage necessary to properly operate a pelt - you can use your pc's ps but your LOAD temps run the risk of starting off "cool" but turn your back and you could melt down your processor like it didnt even have any cooling

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ok as i wrote the first post i was in a bit of a hurry...so here is a more detailed one

 

i have a custom build watercooling setup...i have the cpu and the graphics card cooled, since im a bit crazy im going to get a peltier for my cpu and possibly my gpu, i have a dual radiator setup at the moment....since the way i have my fans set up my inside of my case stays about 1-3 degrees above ambient, so i dont believe the northbridge cooler is a bad overclocking culprit, but i will look into that with more detail, anyways, if i got a 226 watt pelt from swiftec added it to my watercooling would i be able to lower temps enough to hit 4ghz....

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