Repainting Case

[DarkScorpion]

Ok, Im going to repaint the insides of my case. Why? Because it didn't turn out perfect from last time, and I am a serious perfectionist B) So, What should I do to remove the old paint? Just sand it off? I would think it would work because the paint has chipped off in a few places. Or should I just paint over it? I would think sand it so It will be even in the end. Anyways, here's what I will do:

 

Sand off original Paint (400 Grit)

Wash

Prime

Sand (600 Grit)

Prime

Sand (800 Grit)

Prime

Sand (1000 Grit)

Prime

Paint (Serveral light layers)

Clear Coat (Several Light layers)

 

Does this sound good? Also, is there a certain primer or clear coat I should use? Or is anything alright? Also, is the clear coat/primer available in a can like the spraypaint or do I have to buy a bucket or something?

[airman]

use a paint thinner of some kind. or you can try "Liquid Strip"

 

btw...you only prime once...i think you mean the actual color coat.

 

 

also...don't sand the color coat before the clear-coat. it takes away from the shine.

 

also...do about 2-3 coats sanding on the same grit. so....paint, 600grit, paint, 600grit, paint, 800grit, paint, 800grit, etc. u wanna use a lot of coats, just paint them as thin as possible. Don't worry about trying to cover the entire face in one coat.

[DarkScorpion]

Yeah, thats what I mean. I keep thinking of something else But anyways, so it would be:

 

Strip paint

Prime

Paint

Sand

Paint

Sand

Paint

Sand

Paint

Clearcoat?

[airman]

I keep thinking of something else

Strip paint

Prime

Paint

Sand

Paint

Sand

Paint

Sand

Paint

Clearcoat?

you still are.

 

you prime only once!

[hardnrg]

i'd go with the

 

Sand off original Paint (400 Grit)

Wash

Prime

Sand (600 Grit)

Prime

Sand (800 Grit)

 

idea, for an extra smooth primed surface... and then go with the multiple paint coats...

[DarkScorpion]

Ok, do I need to use clear coat in the end?

 

so....paint, 600grit, paint, 600grit, paint, 800grit, paint, 800grit, etc.

 

Thats what I said in the post afterwards, I only said prime once. This is starting to confuse me. Ok, so its

 

Remove original paint

Prime

Sand

Prime

Sand

Paint

Clearcoat

[spectrascope]

well if it is only sheet steel and I stress sheet cause this compound will eat anything plastic, rubberm and even you if your not care and you must use apsa aproved respitaror then use xylene is a extremely hot solvent and is only for extremely tough metals and paint otherwise use some thing lesser and for the repaint I suggest contactin your local benijamen moore deal to get a hold a paint called breakthrough it as though as nails and requires no priming you can ask them the details and they can pretty much mix up any color you want the paint is also thougher than most car finishes and sands better

[Gigashadow]

Or you could send it to me and I could powder coat it. I do powder coating as well as custom painting. But if your going to paint it yourself there is some really good tutorials in the forum for painting.

 

Or you could do it this way. I recommend doing it this way if your not doing powder coating, this is the way I do it, always come out tip top.

 

I only use automotive paints, sandable primer, and engine enamels, My clear coat of choice is candy apple clear coat, maked the glossiest shine on the planet.

 

Sand your case

 

clean it with tack cloth DO NOT TOUCH WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY CLEANED, the oil in your fingers will create a wrinkled effect, the paint won't bond where the oil is, I ALWAYS wear rubber surgical gloves (no oil).

 

spray your first light coat of primer don't worry if you can still slightly see through, let it dry how ever long you think you need to, wet sand with 220 grit. now reapeat this step about 6 or 7 times each time using a finer grit sand paper, till you get to your 1000 or 1200 grit. After each sanding WASH good so you don't have any residue behind, towel dry with a nice soft towel.

 

Now start your colored layer the same way and procede the same as above except use around 650 to 800 grit to start with and go from there 2 coats at 800 grit then two at next grit like 1000 then two at 1200. just liek above clean after each sanding.

 

Ok now for your clear coat, BE SURE to tack cloth BEFORE you start your clear coat, don't touch anything with your bare hands. apply the clear coat evenly in thin coats, use the 1200 grit only on all layers. Wash between sandings

 

Finally once your done Get a GOOD buffing compound and polish, start off with the buffing compound (I use a small turtle wax buffer I got at home depot for 15 bucks) if you don't have a buffer you can do it by hand, READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE BOTTLE, APPLY IT JUST LIke THE BOTTLE SAYS!! Be sure to polish till all teh buffing scuffs are gone. Once that's done, you can do your polish just like the bottle says. You should end up with a glass finish on your case. This is exactally how i do it every time but I only wait abotu 30 minutes or 45 minutes between coats, I do very light coats but even, I also bake it in the oven or put it out in the hot Texas sun so it dries super fast, sandable in 30 to 45 minutes.

 

Also if you use a power buffer be sure not to burn through the paint.

 

Good luck

[DarkScorpion]

Ok, I did this my way. I didnt sand off or remove the old paint, just sanded it down with 400 grit (I've only done one drive cage so far) to get it even and prepped. I applied 3 light coats of primer, 4 light coats of black (it got the job done) then applied a clearcoat. Now, its PERFECT, just the way I want it, a little bumpy, like the exterior paint of the case, and a little glossy but not super reflective. Plus, its super dark, jet black really. And this is coming from $.99 paint!! And the clearcoat I got was like, 5 dollars a can, so Im sure it'll protect it for a while. Thanks for your help guys, but I decided to take this mod into my own hands. Next mod: top window+blowhole.

[spectrascope]

you don't plan much do ya should done the window ad blow hole before any painting

[airman]

how did it turn out? did you use the Rubbing Compound?

[DarkScorpion]

you don't plan much do ya should done the window ad blow hole before any painting

Actually, I decided not to do that mod, I would have to buy a dremel, then the window stuff and the fan, and that just adds up to too much money right now, because I'm saving up for my next big upgrade, what and whenever it may be. As for the rubbing compund, I used a thinner, but it didnt really help much, I mean, it removed the paint and all, but it wasn't really needed. But still, I've finished both drive cages, and they've come out the way I wanted them too, and thats what matters Im going to do the frame when ever I set up some time, It's going to take me a while to do it. It took me 1 day for each of the drive cages, because of drying and the coating and the fact that I could only do one at a time because the HD has to rest somewhere But I think this will turn out alot better then it was last time.