Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
ir_cow

galvanized corrosion in nickel loop?

Recommended Posts

So I am observing some light galvanized corrosion in my loop. Expect what confuses me is that all the blocks are nickel plated copper. Only the Fittings and Radiator are Brass. Neither of which shows any signs of corrosion. So I'm really confused of what causing it though it seems the worse on the block connected the radiator which has the nickel partly stripped and turning green. I took the loop completely apart and cleaned all the blocks, the CPU block had a nasty big green goop all in it. After I cleaned it the block still has all the nickel plating on it unlike the other blocks. Other the replacing the fittings and Radiator I'm not sure what to do.

 

Anyone come across this before?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Funny enough the blocks that are showing corrosion is EK blocks. The Watercool Heatkiller is 100% fine. Maybe i'm mixing up pealing with corrosion. But parts are turning green and matches other peoples images. But mine is way less, it only around the seals where the water is flowing less. The rest is just losing its nickle and having a redish look to it.

 

Blocks: Nickel

EK 1080 Ti

EK R4BE MB (2 piece)

WaterCool Heatkiller 4 (Intel Edition)

 

Fititings: Brass

Bitspower

 

Radiators:

Swifttech MCRX20 360 (or older version of the same design)

XSPC RX360 (old version without extra ports)

 

Pump:

Swifttech D5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

EK is a no-buy for me because of their shoddy plating and shady practices.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

EK is a no-buy for me because of their shoddy plating and shady practices.

I'm starting to think so also....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright so I completed my analysis. After taking apart all the blocks and pump it seems it was a mixed bag. EK 1080 Ti block had machine oil left it in, than the MB EK blocks started to peal and the oil got into the those blocks also.

 

Finally after taking part the Pump I found some white fluid stock below the rotor and than I realized I never took it apart until now. I bought the pump and radiators used and did a quick wash but never fully soaked the rad or took the pump apart.

 

So to conclude I think the left over fluid was interacting with the distilled water and whatever was in the radiator came unstuck after I starting folding and it heated up leaving it in the CPU block since it was most restrictive. Before I was doing work and light gaming and the radiator never got warm, now its like a cup of coffee after a few days. So the EK blocks just suck and I didn't completely flush the used parts. The green i'm seeing is as the nickel starts to peel off. EK will be a no buy for me in the future. I would like to say the Watercool Heatkiller has been in my loop the longest and has all the nickel still.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Heatkiller block that RRTech chrome plated - it looks brand new and I've used it for 5 years now with only a single cleaning.  A few drops of biocide, a silver coil in my res, and things have been happy.  My D5 is going on 15 years old now too...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Heatkiller block that RRTech chrome plated - it looks brand new and I've used it for 5 years now with only a single cleaning.  A few drops of biocide, a silver coil in my res, and things have been happy.  My D5 is going on 15 years old now too...

My entire water cooling setup is approaching 10 years now. I'm afraid of what my Swiftech Apogee GTX looks like after all these years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry you are having problems with that IR_cow. 

 

Reason I stayed away from nickle systems and run copper blocks only and Automotive coolant. Coated with nothing and never clogs. woohoo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry you are having problems with that IR_cow. 

 

Reason I stayed away from nickle systems and run copper blocks only and Automotive coolant. Coated with nothing and never clogs. woohoo.

 

Boinker, Next time you flush your system,.. if your using the pre-mix 50-50 Automotive coolant,.. go with 70% distilled water and 30% ethylene glycol,.. you will see huge temp advantage using less glycol.  :cheers:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont by plated blocks because really the looks is not the reason I buy them. All the blocks I have are copper and the only issues I have is when I run coolants other than distilled. The one exception is the Ice Dragon nano fluid I have been using for 3 years in my  video card test rig and CPU test rig. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well am update a month later. Still running the loop 24/7 but the nickel plating is definitely coming off and what I was seeing original was the start with little bits turn green and than red as the layer comes off. Took about a year for the X79 blocks and only 3 months for the 1080Ti. All the while my Watercool Heaterkiller after 2 years still has all the nickel. The VRM block is almost all copper now and parts of the chipset is green/red.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...