mumbai_gamer Posted May 28, 2017 Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) Hi everyone, My cabinet, CM 690 II Advanced, has a poor design for the CPU retention hole making it small/inadequate. While it didn't bother me initially thinking I'll be content with the stock cooler, however after 5 years, I've realised the need for an upgrade but can't do so due to the lack of space. I intend to install a Noctua NH-L12 but I feel its backplate will create an issue in the cabinet. As a workaround, I'm wondering if I mount the motherboard on longer Standoff screws I might be able to create some room but would the motherboard be safe with such a mount given the excess weight of the heatsink? Help me with your suggestions to resolve the issue. Thanks! Edited May 29, 2017 by mumbai_gamer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scr4wl Posted May 28, 2017 Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) Hi everyone, My cabinet, CM 690 II Advanced, has a poor design for the CPU retention hole making it small/inadequate. While it didn't bother me initially thinking I'll be content with the stock cooler, however after 5 years, I've realised the need for an upgrade but can't do so due to the lack of space. I intend to install a Noctua NH-L12 but I feel its backplate will create an issue in the cabinet. As a workaround, I'm wondering if I mount the motherboard on longer Standoff screws I might be able to create some room but would the motherboard be safe with such a mount given the excess weight of the heatsink? Help me with your suggestions to resolve the issue. Thanks! You should be fine, Also your text is impossible to read on the mobile forum. Edited May 28, 2017 by scr4wl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IIxNullxII Posted May 28, 2017 Posted May 28, 2017 I'm concerned the extended stand off screws would raise the height of the motherboard too much, making a graphics card / other PCI card installations difficult or awkward. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpikeSoprano Posted May 29, 2017 Posted May 29, 2017 I'd use a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel and make the access hole bigger, it would not take much cutting, just a bit off the bottom. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted May 29, 2017 Posted May 29, 2017 I'd use a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel and make the access hole bigger, it would not take much cutting, just a bit off the bottom.This is the best route. Raising the board up with higher standoffs will make every PCIe slot and the rear I/O panel completely misaligned. Just cut the hole a bit larger to clear the bigger rear backplate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mumbai_gamer Posted May 29, 2017 Posted May 29, 2017 Hi everyone, My cabinet, CM 690 II Advanced, has a poor design for the CPU retention hole making it small/inadequate. While it didn't bother me initially thinking I'll be content with the stock cooler, however after 5 years, I've realised the need for an upgrade but can't do so due to the lack of space. I intend to install a Noctua NH-L12 but I feel its backplate will create an issue in the cabinet. As a workaround, I'm wondering if I mount the motherboard on longer Standoff screws I might be able to create some room but would the motherboard be safe with such a mount given the excess weight of the heatsink? Help me with your suggestions to resolve the issue. Thanks! You should be fine, Also your text is impossible to read on the mobile forum. I have no idea how it happened. Will try to correct it. I'm concerned the extended stand off screws would raise the height of the motherboard too much, making a graphics card / other PCI card installations difficult or awkward. I'd use a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel and make the access hole bigger, it would not take much cutting, just a bit off the bottom. I'd use a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel and make the access hole bigger, it would not take much cutting, just a bit off the bottom.This is the best route. Raising the board up with higher standoffs will make every PCIe slot and the rear I/O panel completely misaligned. Just cut the hole a bit larger to clear the bigger rear backplate. You are right guys. It occurred a bit late to me so I suppose I have no alternative but to expand the hole in the cabinet. Hate to ruin its aesthetic appeal but I suppose that price is not as steep as that of a new cabinet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braegnok Posted May 29, 2017 Posted May 29, 2017 (edited) You can add some grommet edging around cut edge and it will look good. http://www.performance-pcs.com/solid-wall-polyethylene-grommet-edging-with-adhesive-black.html Edited May 29, 2017 by Braegnok 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mumbai_gamer Posted May 29, 2017 Posted May 29, 2017 You can add some grommet edging around cut edge and it will look good. http://www.performance-pcs.com/solid-wall-polyethylene-grommet-edging-with-adhesive-black.htmlThat's a great idea. Will look to source it here. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scr4wl Posted May 29, 2017 Posted May 29, 2017 I'm concerned the extended stand off screws would raise the height of the motherboard too much, making a graphics card / other PCI card installations difficult or awkward. I didn't even think about that lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xenkw0n Posted May 30, 2017 Posted May 30, 2017 I used this kind for my case mod. I kind of preferred it to be non-adhesive but that other stuff looks pretty good too. Either way, if you're going to make some cuts, Braegnok's idea is a good one and hides any uneven / jagged cuts. These are both non-adhesive. It forms a tight enough grip that it doesn't move and if I ever need to take it off for some reason it's really easy. Figure if it starts to look bad from dust or something. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-32-Rubber-Edge-Trim-For-22-Gauge-Metal-HR-69S-SOLD-BY-THE-FOOT-U-Channel-EPDM-/350917831887?hash=item51b4552ccf:g:H3sAAOSwEK9T9eZf There's also this type that looks very similar to the kind Braegnok referenced earlier; http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-32-Rubber-Edge-Trim-HR69L-U-Channel-EPDM-Black-SOLD-BY-THE-FOOT-/350917822469?hash=item51b4550805:g:ODsAAOSwDk5T6jCk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mumbai_gamer Posted June 1, 2017 Posted June 1, 2017 I used this kind for my case mod. I kind of preferred it to be non-adhesive but that other stuff looks pretty good too. Either way, if you're going to make some cuts, Braegnok's idea is a good one and hides any uneven / jagged cuts. These are both non-adhesive. It forms a tight enough grip that it doesn't move and if I ever need to take it off for some reason it's really easy. Figure if it starts to look bad from dust or something. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-32-Rubber-Edge-Trim-For-22-Gauge-Metal-HR-69S-SOLD-BY-THE-FOOT-U-Channel-EPDM-/350917831887?hash=item51b4552ccf:g:H3sAAOSwEK9T9eZf There's also this type that looks very similar to the kind Braegnok referenced earlier; http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-32-Rubber-Edge-Trim-HR69L-U-Channel-EPDM-Black-SOLD-BY-THE-FOOT-/350917822469?hash=item51b4550805:g:ODsAAOSwDk5T6jCk Thanks. I saw it and its cost is reasonable enough for me. Will procure it once I've cut the area. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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