Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Build for Beginner at Overclocking

Recommended Posts



I would recommend a Case like the Cooler Master HAF 922, 932 Advanced or HAF X to supplement cooing. 


I wouldn't agree with getting the H90/100/100i as coolers. They are great coolers in their own right, but not needed. Keep your hyper and OC happily. There's only slight differences in performance between H100/90 opposed to high end air coolers like the Noctua D14 or even better the Xigmatek Dark Knight II (50$). You can easily OC just as hard with those air coolers. Unless you going for "The Look". Closed Loop cooling from my experience only really benefits when your pushing extreme OCs for benchmarks. Not something that your going to have for a 24/7 OC for 1.5+ years as your not going to push 1.5v+ on a 3570k for any length of time, unless 200$ a pop when it dies dosent phase you. 


Cable management is easily done on the HAF 932 advanced / HAF X cases or any higher end cases with cable "cutouts". Good cooling in case will better help Air Coolers that much more as well. I personally run both the HAf X and 932 Advanced now with Air coolers and I can push some really ridiculous OCs and barely break a sweat (Xigmatek Dark Knight II on both now).


Ive used H60/80i/100, Noctua D14, Hyper 212+ EVO and Frio OCK coolers. From my experience the Dark Knight II only 4 degrees warmer on my i7 at 5.1ghz then my ole H100. 120$ compared to 50$ and <5 degrees.





EDIT: ive dug up my old testing stats from my coolers. Maybe no one cares but here they are:



(Temps opposed to H100 at 1.53v on I7 3770k 5.1Ghz after 9 hours of Prime)


* Arctic Silver 5 was used*


H80i 2 Degrees warmer

Dark Knight II: 4 degrees Warmer

Noctua NH-D14 5 Degrees Warmer

H60: 7 Degrees Warmer

Frio OCK: 8 Degrees Warmer

Hyper 212+ Evo 8 Degrees Warmer





Keep the case. If you want some beast overclocking, go with a full water cooling loop. 


Sorry I didn't see his case listed at first. Agreed, keep your current case.   :doh:


Why would you recommend a 140$+ loop system that is not needed? You can OC just as hard on a good air cooler. Judging by the OPs quote of "some overclocking"  this entails to me he is looking to push 4.2-4.6ghz. Why spend 100$+ on a cooler or cooling solution that has no benefit over air at those speeds/voltages? Unless he was looking to post huge numbers on a benchmark board via ridiculous OCs and/or going for a certain look (which in retrospect would look great in a 650/800D case) then that is just money wasted. I used to be gungho over Closed and Open loop system because I thought the difference was day and night temps wise. After years of tinkering I realized that air coolers have come along way(not counting the many shoddy air coolers that are on the market) and in the end for the average OC'er it really dosent matter what type of decent AM cooling used as new CPUs are more thermal tolerant and upper end air cooling are producing results that are strikingly close to upper end closed loops. The gap only opens up when you really start pushing the chip beyond meaningful conditions, but even at that point the best loop system cannot keep up and you are left with 2 options: TEC or LN2. Keep in mind the title of this thread is "beginner overclock".   :rtfm:


I am trying to give advice to the OP in regards to his needs and wants. No point in having him spend X amount of $$ for something that is not essential to what he is looking to get out of it. He already has a Hyper 212+ that more then enough for OCs atleast in the 4.5-4.6ghz range and still stay below 80c under the hardest of stresses.



EDIT: Im am also very aware that Cooler Master does not make the best cases out there. For whatever reason i was under the impression that he was using a shoddy basic case  :wallbash:

and I offered CM as an option for amazing cooling, expandability and pretty decent cable management at an affordable rate. Especially if going the air cooling route.




The reason I suggested the full water cooling solution is for a couple reasons. 


Reason 1) It can cool the CPU well enough to achieve any type of 24/7 overclock. So the OP will NEVER have to worry about cooling the CPU ever again. 


Reason 2) Unlike many other coolers including the corsair junk (I call it junk because many air coolers can compete with it while at the same time stay quieter, and cost less) you can add a GPU block to cool your GPU/s and if you really wanted to you could add motherboard blocks and ram blocks as well. So the idea is that for 150 you can have a cooler that can cool your CPU and a LOT more if you so choose. 


Reason 3) The corsair obsidian series was designed specifically for water cooling. The air cooling sucks......bad in an obsidian case. I have the 800D. I modded some of the 5.25" bays to hold a 120mm fan, and even with the noctua D14, I was still running pretty warm at stock. With water cooling, I have had no issues. So instead of fighting with the case to cool your system, it seems a lot smarter to work with it. IMO of course. 


If the Op switches the mobo to the asrock extreme 4 and gets the full loop, then he could EASILY get a GPU block for the 7950 down the line and OC that thing to the moon. 


There are simply so many advantages to the WC loop at this point that it seems silly not to get it despite the extra cost. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all. I have just started OC,ing, and am addicted to it. But I am afraid of burning stuff out, so just tweaked a bit. Here is my rig. I am currently running it in auto freq select mode for the GPU and CPU. My cpu is clocking out at 4.885GHz when there is a demand. It idles at 1.5GHz. I dont know where my rig is, in comparison to other peoples. It runs Skyrim at 57-60fps pretty well. 3DMark scores and more shown here at my blog here: http://mybigrig.blogspot.com/


ASUS Sabertooth X79 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s

Intel Core i7-3930K Sandy Bridge-E 3.2GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 2011

CORSAIR Hydro Series H100 (CWCH100) 

CORSAIR Vengeance 64GB (8 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 

Corsair Force Series 256Gig SSD (my maine drive)

EVGA 03G-P3-1588-AR GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) Classified 3072MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 


COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RSA00-80GAD3-US 1000W

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this