Water Cooling Irony

[sonic_agamemnon]

For your reading pleasure and consideration, here are my favorite water cooling ironies in no particular order:

• Most plumbing solutions cost significantly more than effective heat-pipe products like Noctua’s NH-D14 (available for around $85), yet many water-cooled systems do not offer much cooling performance improvement, if any, over a well designed and much cheaper air-cooled configuration.
• Water is not simpler to control or manage compared to air, since water presents not only a leak risk, but over-temperature, coolant quality, pressure and volume loss issues as well.
• Pumping water around expensive electronic components is riskier than an air-cooled design, with any leak likely to ruin the very hardware that’s supposed to be kept not only cool, but secure from damage.
• In the end, there are just as many fans, often even more for those gigantic radiators, frequently multiple radiators, compared with equivalent air-cooled configurations.
• All the expensive, higher-risk plumbing ignores one of the hottest, highest risk components in most systems today: hard disks. The lack of high air flow in many water-cooled systems means the most failure-prone devices in the system are operating hotter than they would in a dedicated air-cooled configuration.
• Many expensive water-cooled systems deplete budgets so fast that other, much more important computing resources (adding more RAM, higher-capacitySSD, etc.) are compromised.
• The risks involved are not a one-time event. Risk levels keep growing as time marches on, since water cooled systems require much more maintenance, including a never ending cycle of fluid replacement. Cheaper systems use corrosive metals that rust and/or corrode over time.
• All water cooled systems suffer from the notorious “fish tank” syndrome. Just like fish tanks, water cooled systems look nice sometimes, but frequently resemble the entrails of a gutted water buffalo. Also, just like a nice fish tank, effective computer plumbing is very expensive, and interest usually falls off over time due to high ongoing maintenance costs and effort required to fight atrophy as components slowly degrade.
• How many over-confident $1,200 plumbing builds have you seen that invariably neglect to spend an extra $50 for water leak, pressure or over-temperature sensors?

Those lost souls who remain enamored with water blocks, variable speed pumps and $300 quadruple radiators, please feel free to post your air-cooled ironies...

[ir_cow]

i'm going to say no to your first statement. basically any water cooling solution is better than the best air cooling and its quieter. I can pay $90 for a huge heatsink and a loud fans or i can just get a H80 or 100 and get better results.

 

Edit, i guess i didnt see you said post a story. well I turnned off the thermal throttling setting when I had my i7 920 over 4ghz and somehow the power molex came lose for the pump. after about 5 minutes i started to smell melting plastic be i couldn't tell where it was coming from. While looking into the case i saw water dripping down the line so i pulled the power cord and right afterwords the tube broke. luckily for me everything was alright. Than I sold the case / WC for $500 lol.

Edited July 4, 2012 by hornybluecow

[Waco]

Most of the list is a bit over-sensationalized.

 

The number of fans are generally higher but they can also be run at extremely low speeds. My whole loop (with 12 fans) is more quiet than a single Noctua tower cooler.

HDDs aren't the hottest thing in a computer nor are they more risk-prone when they run a bit hotter (in fact, the opposite is true...over-cooling HDDs is bad for them).

Fluid replacement is as simple as adding a bit of water every few months, at most.

"Fish tank" syndrome is only common in poorly designed/prepared loops. I've never had to clean anything out of my loops.

Water leak and over pressure sensors? These don't even really exist (nor are they needed) for the most part. Other than temperature sensors and/or water level sensors you can't safeguard it much more than paying attention to it and building it properly the first time.

[sonic_agamemnon]

well I turnned off the thermal throttling setting when I had my i7 920 over 4ghz and somehow the power molex came lose for the pump. after about 5 minutes i started to smell melting plastic be i couldn't tell where it was coming from. While looking into the case i saw water dripping down the line so i pulled the power cord and right afterwords the tube broke. luckily for me everything was alright. Than I sold the case / WC for $500 lol.

 

Hey, that was a close call and I'm pleased you caught it early!

 

I do freely admit that higher-end plumbing offers superior performance, especially in OC situations, but honestly, how many people really need to OC their system? If somebody needs more speed, why not just purchase a faster CPU, more RAM or an SSD?

 

To me, a stock Core i7 3930K and a good, inexpensive heat-pipe with low-noise fans is more than sufficient for the vast majority of systems on this planet...

[sonic_agamemnon]

Regarding maintenance woes, please review the following recommended, ongoing procedures from a water-cooling "expert". He proposes annual tear-downs, PineSol flushes and preventing o-ring failures . . . really? O-ring failures? Where have I heard that line before? Oh, yes, when the Space Shuttle blew up!

 

"You have been water-cooling for months and feel like a pro. What's next? If you followed the above steps about cleaning parts and used a biocide as recommended, then the next experience should be the joy of maintenance. In spite of advantages over air-cooling such as noise and performance, maintenance is greater for water-cooling. In addition to blowing dust out every 3 to 6 months like air-cooling, one needs to drain and replace coolant every 6 to 12 months even if all looks fine. This allows one to flush the system with distilled water to clean out that bit of radiator sludge that was impossible to remove initially or to catch plasticizer leaching from the tubing like Tygon 3603 or Masterkleer brand or Primochill Primoflex LRT. One may also need to add biocide unless using silver, in which case it gets more concentrated over time, which is good. This is also the time to fix any kinked tubing or perform upgrades you have been wanting to try.

 

What if there is a monthly loss of water but no leak is found? There is a small amount of transpiration through water-tubing or bubbles can drop the coolant level. From this EOCF thread, it appears that small amounts like a few milliliters per month are usually inconsequential while larger losses more likely indicate slow leaks, often O-ring failures. In my opinion, any water-loss means you should dab with paper towels looking for wet spots. There is nothing to lose and you might find a leak early.

 

At 12 to 24 months, it's time for a complete tear down with removal of blocks from the motherboard and removal of fittings with cleaning, rinsing of parts, and replacement of tubing. Some, like me, also remove the top of the CPU block and clean the internals with dish-soap and a toothbrush. Sometimes, as described above, the block or radiator requires a mild acid bath. Sometimes O-rings need replacement. If you lubricate an O-ring to seal a block; make sure it is proper O-ring silicone lubricant from a hardware store. Petroleum jelly and friction can dissolve rubber.

 

Those who use colored dyes in coolant should cut in half the time between coolant replacement plus tear down all blocks and pumps to remove debris. Also be prepared to do a tear down at the first sign of rising load temperatures.

 

Manufacturers are not keen on water-coolers doing extensive maintenance because they don't want us to break things. Doing seemingly routine inspections such as removing a top from a pump or block can void warranties. The flushing and filtration method using a pond-pump and drinking-water-filter can preserve warranties. Here is my EOCF thread with links to parts. One manufacturer recommends a Pine-Sol® flush to avoid removing pump tops. However, the ingredients include isopropyl alcohol, which can crack acrylic, so read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) and make your own call. Other water-coolers use Prestone® radiator flush for the entire loop. Or, there are mild dish-washing soaps without alcohol that may be safer on the gear. Unless there are important warranty issues, why not do a real tear-down?

 

One probably won't need acid or alcohol. One likely needs a toothbrush scrub with a little dish soap inside of the CPU block to remove debris..."

[Waco]

If you use distilled water, good components, and a silver kill-coil, it's unlikely you'll need to do anything except top off the water and blow out the radiators occasionally. I use a water temperature sensor to let me know when my water temps start to creep up...and they have yet to break 3 C over ambient, even with the worst of loads.

 

Flushing your system with anything but distilled water is a mistake.

 

 

I've not dumped a whole lot into my water cooling setup but it's by far better than any air cooled setup you could possibly come up with. The most expensive parts are full cover GPU blocks and if you actually plan to keep your cards for a decent amount of time they aren't a terrible investment (since they'll allow anything you do have to last a LOT longer). All it takes is a bit of foresight and planning to make a good loop without breaking the bank.

[sonic_agamemnon]

I've not dumped a whole lot into my water cooling setup but it's by far better than any air cooled setup you could possibly come up with. The most expensive parts are full cover GPU blocks and if you actually plan to keep your cards for a decent amount of time they aren't a terrible investment (since they'll allow anything you do have to last a LOT longer). All it takes is a bit of foresight and planning to make a good loop without breaking the bank.

 

Admittedly, the prices have fallen recently. It seems as interest levels rise so does demand, allowing prices to fall.

 

I also found another irony based on your feedback: Isn't it ironic that the hottest component (GPU) is usually not the first component to be water-cooled? Many people spend more cash on video cards than any other component, so it's kind of funny how most fixate on the CPU and continue to air-cool the hottest, most expensive component in the box!

 

A Noctua D14 heat-pipe handles my highest load at 62 degrees and I can barely hear the fans spin...

[Waco]

A Noctua D14 heat-pipe handles my highest load at 62 degrees and I can barely hear the fans spin...

And I cool both my 5970 (extremely overclocked) and my 2600K at 5 GHz with full load temps around that...but I can't hear it at all.

 

EDIT: And with black Norpene tubes I don't have to worry about plasticizer leaching into my water.

[sonic_agamemnon]

And I cool both my 5970 (extremely overclocked) and my 2600K at 5 GHz with full load temps around that...but I can't hear it at all.

 

Note: the Noctua is also silent under regular loads, browsing the web, doing normal stuff. The fans are noticeable only under heavy loads, gaming, etc.

 

I spent $85 for my heat-pipe. How much did you spend-- and be honest!

 

How much more did you spend to have "silent" operation under the heaviest of loads?

 

Is it really worth it?

Edited July 4, 2012 by sonic_agamemnon

[xPETEZx]

Most of the list is a bit over-sensationalized.

 

The number of fans are generally higher but they can also be run at extremely low speeds. My whole loop (with 12 fans) is more quiet than a single Noctua tower cooler.

 

 

Talk about over-sensationalising yourself? I just don't buy that 12 Fans and a pump is quieter than a single Noctua fan on one of there towers.

I have used Noctua fans many a time, and find them in-audible. I fail to see how 12 fans can be quieter than that.

I suppose you will argue that to match the water cooling, the fan needs to spin much faster on the Noctua, if it can at all. But as was said, spending less money on the cooling means you can spend more on the CPU in first place, meaning you dont need as being an OC to attain the same perforamance.

 

Also, you mention that your Water blocks will allow the cards to last much longer. Not sure this has any relevance, as almost every component will carry on working long past the point it is no longer powerful enough to be needed.

I have an Old PIII + Geforce 2 lying around that still works, but is just useless now.

My point being that prolonging the life of the cards by running them cooler is not necessary, given that there natural life already far outlives there useful life.

 

Also, I am sure the overclock you run on the cards will do far more to shortening the cards life span than the full cover block will do to extending it.

[Stonerboy779]

Note: the Noctua is also silent under regular loads, browsing the web, doing normal stuff. The fans are noticeable only under heavy loads, gaming, etc.

 

I spent $85 for my heat-pipe. How much did you spend-- and be honest!

 

How much more did you spend to have "silent" operation under the heaviest of loads?

 

Is it really worth it?

Yes it is worth it

 

Especially when you have quad fire going on you really want things to be cooled properly and more rads and slower fans equals fantastic cooling and low noise.

 

When you are pushing your rig to the max it is nice to have everything real cool and quiet because most people don't like a jet starting up next to them. Plus if you shop savey it's really not overly expensive.

[Waco]

Talk about over-sensationalising yourself? I just don't buy that 12 Fans and a pump is quieter than a single Noctua fan on one of there towers.

My pump is inaudible, even with my ear next to it. The 12 fans are running push/pull on 2 radiators and running at under 1000 RPM. It's essentially silent.

 

Also, I am sure the overclock you run on the cards will do far more to shortening the cards life span than the full cover block will do to extending it.

The combination of the waterblock and OC will extend its useful life far further than stock without shortening the real lifespan of the cards.

 

I just recently got rid of my trio of 4870X2s (which came out in 2009) for over $100 each and all of them worked like the day I bought them. If I hadn't gotten my 5970 for essentially nothing I'd still be using them to play the latest games with no real loss.