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Onion

Traction issues

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Well, after reading all this, I've learned quite a bit. By the way, bowtie, it sounds like you've got the coolest job in my opinion lol. How did you get started? The guy I bought my car from builds race engines, some of which are pushing over 1800 horse.

 

What I think I'll be doing is buy a full suspension kit, sell my current springs and stock springs, and then see how traction is handling is. From there, I'll start tweaking. My main issue right now though is the front tires rubbing during "spirited" driving. :lol:

 

Here's the beast, just so you guys see how low it actually is.

 

shzR.jpg

Edited by Onion

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I actually took performance auto schooling in High school at a Career Center... took performance engine classes during the summers and then moved on from there...

 

During one of the engine classes at school they took us to a machine shop in another city where I met the owner... he was an Ex-Racer with many many titles under his belt and is very smart... somehow he took a shine to me and I ended up doing the Karate kid scenario with him... many years and beers later I have learned a lot but there was a lot of losing and broken parts getting there...well the losing and broken parts didnt last long that was a learning curve and we learned how to make things live and win. There was another kid a little older than me that was an Ex-Pro football player that got into this when he got hurt playing ball... he took this much more serious and we have remained friends since the late 80s... my bud picked up where the old man left off and has set some records himself and we have brainstormed a few times... I also worked pit-crew for him a couple times and met alot of cool people...

 

only difference between me and my friend... i do it for fun and he does it for a living.....I've worked on everything from Single cylinder engines to 800 cubic inch monsters....

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I'm not that lucky.... I pretty much quit doing any of that 6-8 years ago with the completion of my last finished build.... although I sold the top half of my engine for a good sum I am thinking about piecing it together and putting the wife in the car... she wants to drive a race car and I can de-tune it and start her out at 13s and then just keep turning the wick up until she can handle low 9s.....

 

thats the plan anyways.... but then i need to get rolling on some heads and intake

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Bowtie gave a great explanation. Excuse any typos since I am on my cell...

 

I think people just mix up what the rear end is doing with what the chassis is doing. If the rear of the car is squatting hard on launch, you are most likely causing wheel hop, which is more dangerous to a rear differential then torque is. You want the instant center of the car adjusted via the pinion angle, which is easily done with a magnetic angle gauage and an adjustable torque arm (the red thing pointing forward connected to the diff in the pic I posted of my rear suspension).

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how many miles, what year model, what kind of rear end do you have (limited slip, open, or positrak)

 

Do i need to remind you that you did buy a mustang???

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2000 GT, 73k miles, $5,900. Actually, I don't know what rear end it has. :lol: It does have 3.73 gears though, which I forgot to mention in my other post in the car thread.

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Have you replaced the shocks lately or have they been replaced in the past. If you are squatting to hard :rofl: then you could have an aneurism or your rear end will easily break loose. Check the swaybar and the 4 link bushing. If they are torn order them and get them replaced. If you want to start modding and replaceing with none OEM parts then I would go to the nearest Brick and mortar racing accessory store, talk to them and then do some business.

 

Easiest way to figure out what kind of differential you have. When you light the tires up do you get two or one marks?? if you get one then its a broken Limited slip or an open differential. If you have two you have a possi or Limited slip. if the vehicle tries to stall while you are turning a sharp 90' corner at idle speed (right turn at main street tight) then you have a possi. if not then you can eliminate it to a LSD Diff.

 

There is also one other Item. The rear end link in the center is a cause for loss of rear traction. If rode hard those bushings are the first to go out and allows the rear end to flex around too much. As Puck was mentioning this will cause the rear end to turn forward and as dr Bowtie stated it will lift the rear axle and you break loose. In my humble opinion depending on how much power you actually have you0 may be experiencing a normal thing. Throttle control is more then half of driving and no matter what kind of racing you participate in you will have to learn to tame your Horse (literally). Practice rolling into it and not completely upsetting the chassis. people expect to be able to just nail the throttle from a roll and maintain good results but even top alcohol cars take off at lower RPM and without the throttle WFO.

 

Chassis Dynamics 101: To properly turn a vehicle during racing conditions you must understand one thing. Momentum. Now if your momentum is all the way to the front of your vehicle (over braking) you will have oversteer as the front it will have all its weight transferred to the front. this is one way to initiate a "drift" but technically in most forms of racing that is the slow way to do it. Remember the more traction you hang on to the easier the vehicle will be to drive. Now the opposite being all momentum back in which should only be that way in a straight line under heavy throttle input. When entering or exiting a corner you do not want all the momentum in the rear end as you will loose steering. Apply the Throttle smoothly as you exit the corner and you will maintain traction.

 

These tips and tricks should help you. Let me know if you want more.

 

Oh and also if you are going to be Pissing around like that on the streets then please cease and desist. Take it to a track where yours and everyone elses life that is around you will not be endangered.

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Oh and also if you are going to be Pissing around like that on the streets then please cease and desist. Take it to a track where yours and everyone elses life that is around you will not be endangered.

This, for sure. Keep all the "stupid" driving on a track. :cheers:

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Have you replaced the shocks lately or have they been replaced in the past. If you are squatting to hard :rofl: then you could have an aneurism or your rear end will easily break loose. Check the swaybar and the 4 link bushing. If they are torn order them and get them replaced. If you want to start modding and replaceing with none OEM parts then I would go to the nearest Brick and mortar racing accessory store, talk to them and then do some business.

 

Easiest way to figure out what kind of differential you have. When you light the tires up do you get two or one marks?? if you get one then its a broken Limited slip or an open differential. If you have two you have a possi or Limited slip. if the vehicle tries to stall while you are turning a sharp 90' corner at idle speed (right turn at main street tight) then you have a possi. if not then you can eliminate it to a LSD Diff.

 

There is also one other Item. The rear end link in the center is a cause for loss of rear traction. If rode hard those bushings are the first to go out and allows the rear end to flex around too much. As Puck was mentioning this will cause the rear end to turn forward and as dr Bowtie stated it will lift the rear axle and you break loose. In my humble opinion depending on how much power you actually have you0 may be experiencing a normal thing. Throttle control is more then half of driving and no matter what kind of racing you participate in you will have to learn to tame your Horse (literally). Practice rolling into it and not completely upsetting the chassis. people expect to be able to just nail the throttle from a roll and maintain good results but even top alcohol cars take off at lower RPM and without the throttle WFO.

 

Chassis Dynamics 101: To properly turn a vehicle during racing conditions you must understand one thing. Momentum. Now if your momentum is all the way to the front of your vehicle (over braking) you will have oversteer as the front it will have all its weight transferred to the front. this is one way to initiate a "drift" but technically in most forms of racing that is the slow way to do it. Remember the more traction you hang on to the easier the vehicle will be to drive. Now the opposite being all momentum back in which should only be that way in a straight line under heavy throttle input. When entering or exiting a corner you do not want all the momentum in the rear end as you will loose steering. Apply the Throttle smoothly as you exit the corner and you will maintain traction.

 

These tips and tricks should help you. Let me know if you want more.

 

Oh and also if you are going to be . around like that on the streets then please cease and desist. Take it to a track where yours and everyone elses life that is around you will not be endangered.

 

I get two lines when I take off, but I'm not too sure about idling around a corner, I'll give it a try tomorrow. It's probably a LSD I think.

 

My friend is loaning me his jack and stands this weekend (to hold me off until I get my own), so I'll check everything out.

 

As for a B&M Mustang store, I'm having a lot of trouble finding one. I know Steeda is based in Pompano Beach, which is about an hour away, but it's kind of a drive. I've been talking to people though, trying to find someone who can get me some sweet deals, hopefully I find someone or a shop soon.

 

I drive smoothly on the street, mainly because cops can hear my car from a mile away, and it's extremely recognizable. So even if I wanted to go fast, I can't.

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