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Onion

Traction issues

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Spinning at 2k in first - are you just dropping the clutch or what? There's no way that a slightly modified mustang with 285s on the rear is going to spin unless you're doing something wrong...lol

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Spinning at 2k in first - are you just dropping the clutch or what? There's no way that a slightly modified mustang with 285s on the rear is going to spin unless you're doing something wrong...lol

Exactly (though I assume you mean 2nd gear). :lol:

 

Hell...I can't get my dad's car to do that and it's well over 400 RWHP with 295s. Punching the throttle at 2K just slams you into the seat till you hit 110 MPH. :D

 

 

BTW - airman - your car sounds MEAN when you get on it. You need a posi rear end though. :lol: You've got about zero traction when your turbo spools up. :teehee:

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Wait what?

 

The rear end should never lift from a dig. The rear squatting down increases traction to the rear wheels because of weight shifting. Granted, crappy shocks will get you wheel hop like a mother, but no shock will cause the rear to lift under heavy acceleration.

 

Onion - if you want better traction on your rear wheels consider going to a softer spring and poly inserts for your rear end / suspension. It'll decrease wheel hop massively and give you a good hole shot...but your handling will suffer quite a bit. :cheers:

 

 

EDIT: Ouch, I didn't read your post till now Onion. Rubbing in a hard turn is absolutely one of the scariest things that can happen. :lol: Get that fixed ASAP!

 

 

Boy are you WRONG.....................................

 

when you stab the gas if the rear of the car squats that means the rear axle is lifting and causing a loss of traction... the rear of the car raising slightly means the rear end is pushing DOWN forcing the body of the car to lift meaning traction is being applied to the ground....

 

think about it for a second... if the rear of the body squats what does that mean....? that means the rear suspension is trying to crawl up into the body thus raising teh center of gravity up off the ground... even with weight transfer the rear should NEVER squat....

 

whatch the drag cars in staging lanes expecially the trans-brake cars... they never squat, well at least the ones that stick well dont.

 

I know it maybe a hard concept for you to grasp but I;ve been building engines and cars for as long as you are old and I know how a suspension fully works..................

 

and as far as the shocks go yes you can to a certain extent... thats why they have adjustable shock... you can soften or harden the hit and make the car do as you want... making the shock "stiffer" makes it harder for the shock to collapse with load and thus cannot settle as quick... thus helping get the traction down....

 

softening the shock makes the hit softer but letting the fluid escape past the valving much quicker thus letting it collapse much faster... this softens the ride but traction goes away quickly

 

 

BTW when the spring were put on did it lower the car any...? if it did the pinion angle can be off enough to cause the traction issues...even just a few degrees of pinion angle make all the difference in the world...

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Boy are you WRONG.....................................

 

NOOOOOOOO !!!!! Dont call Waco wrong, he's going to spend pages fighting and argueing with you that he is right ! :P

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well 25 + years of building cars and engines and miles and miles of drag strip miles cant be wrong.... won quite a few races on suspension tricks alone.... plus built quite a few cars... well 100s...........................................

 

Waco isnt wrong very often.... this is just one of those Often times ;)

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Waco isnt wrong very often.... this is just one of those Often times ;)

 

No he's wrong often but he wont admit it when he's wrong :teehee:

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try decreasing the rear camber and tire pressure, it should give you some traction and solve the rubbing problem

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NOOOOOOOO !!!!! Dont call Waco wrong, he's going to spend pages fighting and argueing with you that he is right ! :P

 

Nyt, there is a difference, dr_bowtie knows what hes talking about..... he has loads of experience. Taking correction from his is a heap easier than beeing corrected by a little squirt like you.:P

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well 25 + years of building cars and engines and miles and miles of drag strip miles cant be wrong.... won quite a few races on suspension tricks alone.... plus built quite a few cars... well 100s...........................................

 

Waco isnt wrong very often.... this is just one of those Often times ;)

And I'll cede to your knowledge. I have never seen a car lift the rear from a dig though. :lol:

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I do have tons of experience.... drag strips are an easy sorta tune... now when you do the bad thing and take it on the street (which i dont recommend) its a whole different field... I have a lot of experience in both and you need to be alot sharper on the street where the street isnt as sticky as the track would be...

 

and i've got the no contact tickets to prove it LOL... meaning front tires had no contact off the line... more so called Unsafe Start now.....

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And I'll cede to your knowledge. I have never seen a car lift the rear from a dig though. :lol:

 

its okay man.. people natural reaction is to think that if the rear squat its pushing the rear axle into the ground... in which case its just the opposite...

 

when you stomp the gas the right rear axle tries to twist and that twisting motion also twist upwards as well... this is where the Squat comes from.. the axle twisting/lifting up... thats what breaks traction...

 

stiffer shock, spring or air bag pre-loaded will stop that and actually make the car rise a bit to plant the rear hard in the asphalt...

 

you can also help this by softening the hit and hardening the hit to the tires by changing the pinion angle.... lifting the pinion up hardens the hit and shocks the tires... this looses traction... pulling the pinion down softens the hit and you can traction...

 

changing the ride height also changes the pinion angle.... you can take a Chevette with a 4-banger and make it a tire frier by changing the pinion angle... its just easy to do...

 

when I was running my 83 Camaro in the 12s all I did was change the pinion angle... more so via the torque arm.... before there were mods and bars to do this on your own I just simply made a plate to drop the torque arm 4 inches... thats and 15 psi air pressure in the tires made a shot gun out of the hole even on the street... that car made me a little money light to light... ;)

 

Now on my 57 Bel Air I did something totally different... that car had a open (non-posi) rear axle and knowing a posi rear end takes power and MPG to use I left the rear end open... instead I added 2 extra leafs to the springs on the passenger side and added coil-over shocks... the ride was barely stiffer. this did a couple things for me... left ride height the same and the ride quality jus as it should but helped me off the line when i needed to get serious.

 

the extra leafs on the driver side were just enough to keep the weight transfer even and the shocks took care of the rest... the end result was holding the engine against the convertor at 4,800 rmp and launching the car resulted in an always posi hook up.. even traction on both tires and posi-traction even with an open rear end... of coarse factoring in even surface under both tires...

 

that trick worked and still works to this day......

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Waco's rear end squats because he drag races front wheel drive cars :)

 

Need extra traction in the rear? Relocate the battery box to the back (and all the other tweaks and fixes recommended here).

 

I tried to get in a car argument with Bowtie once.............. I gave up and I'm even older than he is (albeit without quite as much experience).

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