ghostcorps Posted February 3, 2012 Posted February 3, 2012 Get gentle typhoons for the fans. Do not complicate the loop just do it in a way that works easiest and just keeps it small and simple. You can buy res tops for the d5 pump which are pretty cheap and will help reduce on clutter in the case. What sort of control do you want over the loop? Just fan? Also with your htpc just curious what scale did you use and was that high or low when you took that measurement? Also distance from case? I already have the fans from the H100 setup, but come to think of it I think they are 120mm, I'll add the gentle typhoons to the list. Complications are not a problem, I like taking things further than need be, I just want to know if there is a genuine advantage to doing it that way. I'll check out the res tops. I like complications, but not clutter I'm not sure what scale you mean RE my HTPC, but using the H100 at the lowest setting I put the db meter inside the case and registered 64db. From where I sit, the street noise registers higher. btw, this is her at the moment, sorry for the . photo but I don't own a camera: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonerboy779 Posted February 3, 2012 Posted February 3, 2012 There is no advantage is my point. There may even be a disadvantage as it may fractionaly lower flow rates. I reckon you should go with a 3x120mm rad across the top too. Just sacrifice the top bay. Then do some modding, there is your complicated, cut out a hole in the top and place a koolance 3x120mm shroud up there so you can push/pull gentle typhoons 1450 or 1800 rpm models. If you want after that you could possibly mod the front/bottom for an additional 120mm rad if you are feeling adventurous. My two cents. Can put lists together later if you want would just need a postcode to figure in shipping. I ask again what scale, weighting when you measured? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 3, 2012 Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) There is no advantage is my point. There may even be a disadvantage as it may fractionaly lower flow rates. I reckon you should go with a 3x120mm rad across the top too. Just sacrifice the top bay. Then do some modding, there is your complicated, cut out a hole in the top and place a koolance 3x120mm shroud up there so you can push/pull gentle typhoons 1450 or 1800 rpm models. If you want after that you could possibly mod the front/bottom for an additional 120mm rad if you are feeling adventurous. My two cents. Can put lists together later if you want would just need a postcode to figure in shipping. I ask again what scale, weighting when you measured? Ok, no advantage, that settles that I would like a 360 radiator but am still in two minds about sacrificing a drive bay, I rarely use DVDs but once in a while I need to rip something or burn something. I could get a detachable DVD drive or use my laptop... I'll have to think about it. Plus I'll have to get the measuring tape out when I get home, the third fan may be blocked by the controller in the bay below it anyway. As for modding, I already have push/pull without the shroud and bottom already has room and a grill for another rad if need be I still don't know what you mean by scale or weighting? If you're talking about the noise level I just stuck a db meter in the box and took the reading. Are you saying there is more to it than that? Edited February 3, 2012 by ghostcorps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonerboy779 Posted February 3, 2012 Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) Ok, no advantage, that settles that I would like a 360 radiator but am still in two minds about sacrificing a drive bay, I rarely use DVDs but once in a while I need to rip something or burn something. I could get a detachable DVD drive or use my laptop... I'll have to think about it. Plus I'll have to get the measuring tape out when I get home, the third fan may be blocked by the controller in the bay below it anyway. As for modding, I already have push/pull without the shroud and bottom already has room and a grill for another rad if need be I still don't know what you mean by scale or weighting? If you're talking about the noise level I just stuck a db meter in the box and took the reading. Are you saying there is more to it than that? Tape measure is good Just how much room did you have? you may be able to go to a thicker and quieter as well as higher performing rad. Rec on the Alphacool NexXxos rad as it is still quiet slim as I don't believe you could go too thick. It is also very very well priced. The more rad the better. look forward to it going together. Will be a little jealous too because I have to wait quite some time for my sabertooth and 3930k as well as cf 7950s yes there is a bit more to dB meters there are different scales dBA dBC ect and weightings high low that make a big difference in what you are told the common practice now is to use dBA with a high weighting because higher soubds are more annoying than lower sounds which you don't hear as much. Was just wondering what you used because you can play with things and 60 can easily become 40 or 80dB doesn't matter tho. Edit: just had a look at the case and some other watercooling builds and it should be possible for you to get two 240 rads in push pull top and bottom. Just need to do a little mod at the bottom. As well as the top so you clear the mosfet waterblock. Will need to buy right angle fittings to make this work. If you mount two fans outside the case it would give more room but it should be possible to keep it internal. For easier pump mounting go with only a 120 rad on the front and this would require no modding. Just some thoughts. Edited February 4, 2012 by Stonerboy779 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) Tape measure is good Just how much room did you have? you may be able to go to a thicker and quieter as well as higher performing rad. Rec on the Alphacool NexXxos rad as it is still quiet slim as I don't believe you could go too thick. It is also very very well priced. The more rad the better. look forward to it going together. Will be a little jealous too because I have to wait quite some time for my sabertooth and 3930k as well as cf 7950s yes there is a bit more to dB meters there are different scales dBA dBC ect and weightings high low that make a big difference in what you are told the common practice now is to use dBA with a high weighting because higher soubds are more annoying than lower sounds which you don't hear as much. Was just wondering what you used because you can play with things and 60 can easily become 40 or 80dB doesn't matter tho. I think the radiator is the last piece I need to work out. (updated list below). Looking at my photo above I am almost certain a 240 radiator is the only practical option but I cant confirm till I get home to measure it, I am at work today. The shroud is a nice idea too, I looked into it but the case is extra wide so it won't fit properly Since I have no idea about scale/weightings etc for the db meter I'll just say that at the moment it is nice and quiet with 4x120mm corsairs on the lowest setting on the H100, 2x140mm Fractal chassis fans that came with the case, the two tiny fans on the sabertooth and the fan in my old HD6950 (HD7970 will probably go in with the cooling rig). Assuming I go for the 360 radiator, that will add two more fans + the pump. As I will be changing those fans to 4(or 6)x140mm Quiet Typhoons & ditching the GPU fan I am sure it will be neutral net effect. Current plan: Pump>Res>Rad>VRM>CPU>GPU>Pump Pump: Koolance PMP-450 (MCP655 / laing d5) Reservoir: XSPC Premium Acrylic Reservoir for Laing D5 Pumps Radiator: 240 or 360 x140mm depending on space CPU: Koolance MB-ASSTX79 Full Coverage Waterblock for the ASUS Sabertooth X79 GPU: Koolance VID-AR797 Full Coverage Water Block the ATi Radeon HD 7970 Control Unit: Koolance CTR-CD10 Pump & Fan Controller With Display RE: The 3930K. From someone with experience, think real hard about it as it is alot more hassle than it is worth. The extra two cores are useless for gaming, they just add heat. You will get as much if not more gaming prowess from a 2700K as it uses alot less power and generates less heat, plus if you get an Ivy Bridge compatible board it will run super cool if/when you upgrade. (it is what I should have done, but I learned the hard way) Edited February 4, 2012 by ghostcorps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonerboy779 Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 I think the radiator is the last piece I need to work out. (updated list below). Looking at my photo above I am almost certain a 240 radiator is the only practical option but I cant confirm till I get home to measure it, I am at work today. The shroud is a nice idea too, I looked into it but the case is extra wide so it won't fit properly Since I have no idea about scale/weightings etc for the db meter I'll just say that at the moment it is nice and quiet with 4x120mm corsairs on the lowest setting on the H100, 2x140mm Fractal chassis fans that came with the case, the two tiny fans on the sabertooth and the fan in my old HD6950 (HD7970 will probably go in with the cooling rig). Assuming I go for the 360 radiator, that will add two more fans + the pump. As I will be changing those fans to 4(or 6)x140mm Quiet Typhoons & ditching the GPU fan I am sure it will be neutral net effect. Current plan: Pump>Res>Rad>VRM>CPU>GPU>Pump Pump: Koolance PMP-450 (MCP655 / laing d5) Reservoir: XSPC Premium Acrylic Reservoir for Laing D5 Pumps Radiator: 240 or 360 x140mm depending on space CPU: Koolance MB-ASSTX79 Full Coverage Waterblock for the ASUS Sabertooth X79 GPU: Koolance VID-AR797 Full Coverage Water Block the ATi Radeon HD 7970 Control Unit: Koolance CTR-CD10 Pump & Fan Controller With Display RE: The 3930K. From someone with experience, think real hard about it as it is alot more hassle than it is worth. The extra two cores are useless for gaming, they just add heat. You will get as much if not more gaming prowess from a 2700K as it uses alot less power and generates less heat, plus if you get an Ivy Bridge compatible board it will run super cool if/when you upgrade. (it is what I should have done, but I learned the hard way) Due to room stick with 240 rad do not get a 140 dual or triple rad, you will not get the vrm/mosfet block on. Triple will not work due to the lack of 5 1/2" expansion bays. Gentle typhoons are great. As I editted in you could if you wanted get 2 240 rads but for easier pump mounting a 240 and 120 would work best. which would mean starting from top rad. Have a look HERE! rad-vrm/mosfet-cpu-chipset-gpu-rad-pump (depending on rad and pump location at the end they may switch around with each other) RE: my future build, it a pure build of luxury, waste yaddy yadda. I will be fabricating the case mself it will have two rx480 rads, two d5 pumps, more gelid wing uv green fans modded with uv leds than i care to think about as well as ballistix tracer green led ram and lots of other pretty things. I don't really need it but feel like building it, Current rig is just gone 6 months old now I think and it is 2500k, 560 sli build that tbh does not need upgrading. I have just earnt the money and feel like doing it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Due to room stick with 240 rad do not get a 140 dual or triple rad, you will not get the vrm/mosfet block on. Triple will not work due to the lack of 5 1/2" expansion bays. Gentle typhoons are great. As I editted in you could if you wanted get 2 240 rads but for easier pump mounting a 240 and 120 would work best. which would mean starting from top rad. Have a look HERE! rad-vrm/mosfet-cpu-chipset-gpu-rad-pump (depending on rad and pump location at the end they may switch around with each other) RE: my future build, it a pure build of luxury, waste yaddy yadda. I will be fabricating the case mself it will have two rx480 rads, two d5 pumps, more gelid wing uv green fans modded with uv leds than i care to think about as well as ballistix tracer green led ram and lots of other pretty things. I don't really need it but feel like building it, Current rig is just gone 6 months old now I think and it is 2500k, 560 sli build that tbh does not need upgrading. I have just earnt the money and feel like doing it. Nice pics! Adding the 120 in the HDD bay is a neat trick I think I will steal that idea. RE: Luxury build, I get what you mean. This is my last chance to build a 3k+ PC before I have to start acting like an adult with my money lol I'm going to play with the config now and I'll get back to you. I've mocked up the PC in sketchup so I can get a vague idea of what I have to play with and what I will need. When I get back I should have a list of fittings to confirm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NikoDG Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 RE: my future build, it a pure build of luxury, waste yaddy yadda. I will be fabricating the case mself it will have two rx480 rads, two d5 pumps, more gelid wing uv green fans modded with uv leds than i care to think about as well as ballistix tracer green led ram and lots of other pretty things. I don't really need it but feel like building it, Current rig is just gone 6 months old now I think and it is 2500k, 560 sli build that tbh does not need upgrading. I have just earnt the money and feel like doing it. I know what you mean, haha. My 3930K is to commemorate my first $100K, it's a nice present for sure I could have done it a lot more smoothly though, I ended up ordering a few parts I didn't need, I forgot some stuff, and I ended up wasting a but in shipping and restocking fees. It's a good experience though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 I know what you mean, haha. My 3930K is to commemorate my first $100K, it's a nice present for sure I could have done it a lot more smoothly though, I ended up ordering a few parts I didn't need, I forgot some stuff, and I ended up wasting a but in shipping and restocking fees. It's a good experience though. Lol isn't that how it is supposed to be done? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NikoDG Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Lol, not optimally, I bought this 140mm rad hoping I could fit it on my rear exhaust but it's way too big, then the 360mm on top cuts into my top 5.25" bay, and I only have three, so I ended up returning them for a 120mm and a 240mm, then I ordered a couple of the wrong fittings, probably wasted around $100-200 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonerboy779 Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Lol isn't that how it is supposed to be done? That's what I thought too...... I have never seen $100K in the entirety of my life..... I just have a steady income and parents that refuse to take board while I attend uni. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NikoDG Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 That's what I thought too...... I have never seen $100K in the entirety of my life..... I just have a steady income and parents that refuse to take board while I attend uni. Well it's not my $100K... I'm a half owner in a company, we made our first $100K month in January, it was pretty exciting I only get 12.5% as a salary (which is actually pretty sweet) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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