ghostcorps Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 Thanks Stoner, that makes sense unfortunately. I've done some research and I think I understand why. My understanding is that the controller send a signal to the thermo and measures the strength of the reply to determine the temperature, with 4 sensor channels sending 4 signals to the thermo the reply will get distorted. I am on the hunt for dual probes now Otherwise I'll use the bundled surface sensors and use the surface temp of he rad as a guide. The response time will be super slow, but it is better than nothing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 I can not find a hint of dual probes anywhere. Looks like I will have to rely of the surface temp of the rad I am a bit shocked that this is so cutting edge, considering most controllers only put out about 10W which is enough for one fan and even the smallest waterloop seems to have at least 4 fans. Makes me wonder if any of the pro-built rigs allow all fans to react as one or if they all require manual adjustment to go from cinema mode to game mode, which considering their price is like having to pull over manually turn on the turbo when you decide to drive a Ferrari fast. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonerboy779 Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 They either manually do it or play with breadboards and make up control curcuits. Which is what I am going to do but don't suggest doing unless you are 100% certain in your ability to do it and are able to design it yourself to a certain degree. Also you may find that those surface probes are entirely insulated and fine to put into your loop as is. I have no idea and a quick search reviewed nothing for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 They either manually do it or play with breadboards and make up control curcuits. Which is what I am going to do but don't suggest doing unless you are 100% certain in your ability to do it and are able to design it yourself to a certain degree. Also you may find that those surface probes are entirely insulated and fine to put into your loop as is. I have no idea and a quick search reviewed nothing for me. I posted the query on RRTech and they came up with this nice elegant solution. Couldn't you just use channel 1 sensor to control channel 1's output? Feed this output into a gate of a MOSFET controller that will allow you to control as many fans as you like. Putting the sensors into the loop may work, but my first thought was that it would open up a greater chance of leaking. I'll give it a test during the setup to see how it goes Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 I posted the query on RRTech and they came up with this nice elegant solution. Pretty much everyone on RRTech, though they may be a bit harsh and set in their ways, knows their stuff. If you can get past the gruffness they are a fountain of knowledge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 Pretty much everyone on RRTech, though they may be a bit harsh and set in their ways, knows their stuff. If you can get past the gruffness they are a fountain of knowledge. I have steered around them for that exact reason, but I am getting into some pretty tricky territory now and they seemed like the right place to go. I am partly glad I did, and partly regrettign it, not cos they are rude (yet) but more cos I have to rethink my whole controller idea! For reference this is my post on RRtech: http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=194341 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) In the end it turns out that the Gentle typhoons I was using for my calculations were far too powerful. I need the GT800s and was doing the math for the GT1850s. With this rather large correction I can power all 8 fans off one channel with room to spare Edited February 23, 2012 by ghostcorps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 I have just received the first box and have created a test loop but the pump won't turn on! I've confirmed that the 12v wire and grounds are in the right place, and confirmed power is going through the molex plug. I've tried turning it on a number of times, but it still won't turn over. Is there a definitive test to confirm it is DOA? I have taken a bunch of unboxing porn too which I'll update later tonight. I was on night shift last night, right now is time to go to bed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 I hope you didn't turn it on without water running through it. That's a death knell for any pump. However, I would expect it to make at least a little noise before giving up the ghost even if you did that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 I hope you didn't turn it on without water running through it. That's a death knell for any pump. However, I would expect it to make at least a little noise before giving up the ghost even if you did that. Hahaha yes, it was full of water first and it hasn't make a peep. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostcorps Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 Ok, so it seems I didn't know that the PSU needs to be connected to a PC that is powered on before it will put out. The more I think about it the more obvious that is but I've been building my own PCs for the last 10 years and I never knew that. I'm learning things every day Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonerboy779 Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 Or you can jump the green and a black wire on the 24pin atx connector, which is exactly what I thought you were doing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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