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ghostcorps

Kitting myself out with Koolance. First timer

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Regular barbs and clamps tend to cost < $4 per fitting you need to fill. :) I just can't stomach the thought of paying more than a couple bucks for a fitting when I know I can buy straight fittings and clamps and save a TON of money and be more confident that they won't leak.

 

I get that, but the ease of placement/removal makes compression fittings useful. I have chosen to go with the barbs for the straight fittings and use 4 angled rotary fittings on the VRM/CPU/Primary Chipset blocks. Are they really unreliable? I've read otherwise.

 

Also - Yate Loons are "cheap" fans but they are very good also. I have 12, yes twelve, of the low speed variety in my rig and with all of them running full speed at 1350 RPM the only noise from my computer is the slight sound of air movement. If I run them at minimum speed (about 6-700 RPM) they are essentially silent. They are sleeve bearing fans...but I have some in both horizontal and vertical positions and not a single one has failed or started making noise in over a year of near 24/7 operation. :cheers:

 

I'm going to just save cash and use my Corsair 120mms' for now. I have 4 of then so I'll at least be able to push OR pull. I'll figure out if I need more fans once everything else is in :)

 

As for running a 360 in push versus a 240 in push/pull...the latter would probably end up being a bit more efficient at shedding heat (or at least be comparable).

 

I don't suppose you know of anyone who is benchmarking the performance of cooling setups?

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Are they really unreliable? I've read otherwise.

I don't mean to say they're unreliable - they're anything but. I just don't trust compression fittings. Angled and rotary fittings are just as reliable as straight barbs in my mind.

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Angled rotories are reliable. I have been using bitspower rotory fittings sense I started and they have never given me any trouble. The issue I have with compression fittings is the tubing you can get is almost never the exact same size. It has a strict manufacturing tolerance but for having one thing a consistant size then giving it something to mate with and seal that is of inconsistant size or vairable is asking for problems in my mind. I want to use compression fittings one day but I can't get over the idea of how expensive they are versus the alternative.

 

My thoughts, Boinker

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Thanks guys,

 

I must be confused, I thought rotary fittings were compression fittings?

Rotary fittings can be compression fittings - but when I talk about them I'm talking purely about the connectors that simply give you a movable G1/4" port to put a barb on. Like these: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_300_1321

 

You can get them with compression fittings on the end but they usually do cost a bit more (and you can't swap out the barb if you decide to go with a different tubing size).

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Rotary fittings can be compression fittings - but when I talk about them I'm talking purely about the connectors that simply give you a movable G1/4" port to put a barb on. Like these: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160_300_1321

 

You can get them with compression fittings on the end but they usually do cost a bit more (and you can't swap out the barb if you decide to go with a different tubing size).

 

Ok, thanks for clarifying.

 

I am looking at these for the VRM>CPU>Chipset section: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=18447

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Is it worth getting the premixed fluid or just mix it myself? I'm not fussed about the colour but I'd like it to protect from corrosion and bacteria [Edit:] and be nonconductive.

 

I've read that engine coolant and distilled water works just as well as anything store bought, it makes sense to me. Does anyone have experience with it? What is a good antibacterial? I have some cyclohexadine diluted with ethyl alcohol, I assume that would not work?

Edited by ghostcorps

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Distilled water with a silver kill-coil works as well as any premade out there, and is a lot cheaper.

 

Thanks Silas,

 

The res I am using is too small I think.

 

This article is proving very interesting :)http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-i/

 

[update:]

Using the above as a guide I have made a little recipe, using the best chemicals for each job that I can find:

 

Coolant:

Distilled water

 

Surfactant:

Triton X-100 (OCTYLPHENOXYPOLYETHOXYETHANOL)

 

Softner:

Potassium Hydroxide

 

Anti-corrosion:

MBT sodium salt (SODIUM MERCAPTOBENZOTHIAZOLE)

 

Biocide:

Copper sulfate

 

I haven't worked out the amounts yet.

Edited by ghostcorps

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Thanks Silas,

 

The res I am using is too small I think.

 

This article is proving very interesting :)http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-i/

 

[update:]

Using the above as a guide I have made a little recipe, using the best chemicals for each job that I can find:

 

Coolant:

Distilled water

 

Surfactant:

Triton X-100 (OCTYLPHENOXYPOLYETHOXYETHANOL)

 

Softner:

Potassium Hydroxide

 

Anti-corrosion:

MBT sodium salt (SODIUM MERCAPTOBENZOTHIAZOLE)

 

Biocide:

Copper sulfate

 

I haven't worked out the amounts yet.

 

Cost way to much compared to a kill coil. Plus you can dump a kill coil in a tube doesn't need to be in the res.

It is far easier for beginers to just dump it in and forget. When you start mixing things you got to pay a bit of attention to you loop.

 

I am with waco on the fans and fitting for really bringing costs down

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Also I know ek blocks get corroded by copper sulfate, apparently it also cab damage any nickel Bocks

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Also I know ek blocks get corroded by copper sulfate, apparently it also cab damage any nickel Bocks

 

Ouch! Ok, thanks. I thought it would have protected the Copper but it looks like you are right, it takes rather than gives :( I'll go with Iodine.

 

 

Stoner: I don't mind paying attention to the loop, I get as much joy out of building and maintaining my computers as I do playing with them.

 

 

I know some biochem people who should have access to the the Triton X-100. I have alot of Potassium hydroxide already, Iodine and distilled water I can get from the pharmacy. Not sure about MBT Sodium salts yet, but I can find something else if not, anti-corrosive chems aren't difficult to find.

 

:)

 

 

This is how it looks at the moment, this will make a concentrate that you can then mix at the ratio of 100ml/2L:

 

Surfactant:

Triton X-100 (OCTYLPHENOXYPOLYETHOXYETHANOL) <1ml/100ml

 

Softner:

Potassium Hydroxide to a Ph around 10

 

Coolant:

Distilled water

 

Anti-corrosion:

MBT sodium salt (SODIUM MERCAPTOBENZOTHIAZOLE) <1ml/100ml

 

Antibacterial:

Iodine <2mg/ml

 

 

I shouldn't need more than 1L should I?

Edited by ghostcorps

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